Replies

1. 
   cowtown | Nov 29, 2005 10:06am | #1

   you can obtain a good used drafting table from yer local bargain finder for cheap $.

   There will be higher priced  used units for sale, but you just have to learn to say "no" to them.

   Many of the sellers may have tried for some months to get the "big bucks" for what is essentially obsolete technology, so don't be afraid to dicker really seriously, and don't be afraid to walk away.

   A lot of the drafting stuff actually hit the trash can about 12-15 years ago, but theres still some around. A good utilizable drafting arm can be had for around the 50ish$ mark, although watch that it has usable scales with it, New lucite arms will cost you a bunch more than that, so if it has usable arms, that is a plus to be sure.

   I've seen drafting tables tossed in the trash in garage sales, and I've not paid more that 30 bucks for either of the arms that I have (which can incidently be cut down to suit a smaller board, unless yer lucky enuf to find a WW!! military surplus arm which was small to accomodate the plotting needs of aircraft navigators)

   Although the boards and arms get used occassionally, they ain't a high use item, so don't go overboard on acquiring this capability, 9 times out of 10 a simple but capabily drawn pencil sketch done in 5 minutes will clench the deal .

   Not that I don't love drafting tools- I got more than a few wierd ones around here, but they ain't what I'd call a "profit centre" or even an aid to efficiency. But that's just me

   Just look in yer local "bargain finder" and don't be too over-anxious.

   and look for the ones that advertise " and supplies", cause in that generalilty oftentime comes the real value. Sundry layout tools, drafting pencil leads, erasing shields, fixed and  flexible curves, templates, these are often undervalued and are worth considering in the overall deal.

   And if in the deal you find a catalogue of drafting tools , particularly from the 1950-1960 era, well if you is succesful at picking that up, I just gotta advise ya that there is a slippery slope to go down. Next thing ya know, you is snapping up 10 point dividers, railway pens and curves, drop compasses, horn centres, and the like. Don't say ya wasn't warned. The drafting table is just the beginning. The catalogues is what get ya addicted.

   One good thing is that these little drafting tools easily escape SWMBO's notice

   Bon Chance

   Eric in Cowtown

2. 
   CAGIV | Nov 29, 2005 10:49am | #2

   Where are you located?

    

   

1. 
   Zeroubabel | Nov 29, 2005 03:47pm | #3

   in southern NH.

   thks

1. 
   wood_donkey | Nov 29, 2005 04:12pm | #4

   Check with Milford High School/Technical center, we gave them a bunch of tables three years ago.  They may have extra or switched over to mostly CAD by now.

    

   Donkey

2. 
   CAGIV | Nov 29, 2005 05:05pm | #5

   Never mind ;)  I'm close to KC and have one that has been sitting around for a long while.

1. 
   DougU | Nov 30, 2005 07:11am | #6

   Neil

   What do you have in a table?

   Might have an interest.

   Doug

1. 
   CAGIV | Nov 30, 2005 06:36pm | #7

   It is nothing speacial, simple metal frame with a top, it has a mat on it, can't remember the proper name for the mat, and a sliding rule.

   It is nothing fancy at all.

    

2. 
   DennisS | Dec 04, 2005 09:23am | #15

   can't remember the proper name for the mat,

   Borco

3. 
   Dagwood | Nov 30, 2005 08:43pm | #8

   This might seem silly, but how hard can it be to Make a drafting table? Of course it depends on how large of a table you figure you need.

   For college I picked up an old used board with a metal frame, spring tensioned, but no top. A piece of 3/4 MDF and a green mat fixed that, and I was drafting away for under $20.

   It seems to me that you could make the frame with little more than a few pieces of the hardwood of your selection, buy a half sheet of MDF, and pick up a mat at a hardware store. The adjustment on the frame could be accomplished with T-nuts and knobs.

   Just an idea...

   View Image

1. 
   biscuitjoinERic | Dec 06, 2005 09:49pm | #22

   It's not silly at all.  In fact, it's was very easy.<!----><!----><!---->

   I made a drafting table inspired by Philip Lowe’s FWW article I pulled from the archives.  Really, a drafting table only has to be big enough for most of your full size renderings and have two parallel sides.  Taking his advice I just bought a full sheet of ¾” MDF, an 8ft. 2x10 KD Spruce board, two large hinges, and some drywall screws.  I ordered a few simple drafting supplies off the net for $70 total with shipping – everything he recommended in the article except the ship’s curve.<!----><!---->

   <!----> <!---->

   First, I cut the MDF roughly in half.  I had an old particle board table that was ruined in a basement flood.  I took the base off of it and attached it and the hinges to the MDF.  Cut the 2x10 to roughly a little over 4 ft., planed it down to an 1”, and attached it to my garage wall.  Then I attached the MDF table to the Spruce board on hinges.  My idea was to make it fold up and out of the way.  It would also put it on a usable angle – like the picture in the article.<!----><!---->

   <!----> <!---->

   So far, so good.  Since I didn’t do a lot of thinking about how high the ledger board would be, the angle was kind of extreme.  That was easily solved by making a jack for the legs that lowered from under the MDF table.  Voila – a drafting table that could fold out of the way and would sit at a very comfortable height at the base.  It ended up being 36” high at the base – 45”ish at the top.  I’m not sure what the proper angle for a drafting table is but it was working for me.

   <!----> <!---->

   It just so happened that I had an old computer arm lamp crammed in a drawer.   I pulled it out, dusted it off, put a 100 watt bulb in, drilled a ½” hole in the top left-hand corner of the MDF table at I had a moveable lamp.The one issue I’ve not solved yet is securing it to the wall so that it doesn’t fall and kill me when it is upright and against the wall.  Ah, I’ll get to it someday.  Till then I’ll just hold it down with duct tape (kidding… maybe).

   Edited 12/6/2005 1:50 pm by biscuitjoinERic

   Edited 12/6/2005 1:51 pm by biscuitjoinERic

   Edited 12/6/2005 1:52 pm by biscuitjoinERic

4. 
   DonC | Nov 30, 2005 09:18pm | #9

   I use CAD now but still have my old drafting board because it resides behind a large picture on the wall of my Den. When I need to use it, I undo a catch and drop the edge onto a file cabinet that is close by. When I'm done, up goes the board into picture on the wall position. I made it from Russian Baltic Birch with maple frame. Covered it with light green draftsman self healing plastic board cover and contact cement.

1. 
   QCInspector | Nov 30, 2005 10:22pm | #10

   Anyone ever considered converting a drafting table into a panel router / saw for light duty work by removing the drafting head and fitting the tool?

1. 
   mikegagne | Dec 04, 2005 06:48am | #14

   <
   Anyone ever considered converting a drafting table into a panel router / saw for light duty work by removing the drafting head and fitting the tool?>Streibig panel saws evolved from that and they describe it on their website. Probably the most accurate movable head vertical panel saw made today. aloha, mike

1. 
   QCInspector | Dec 04, 2005 10:59am | #16

   Thank you Mike. I don't suppose you could put up the web site for Streibig. I tried searching it on Yahoo, but couldn't find it.The thought of making a panel saw out of a drafting table didn't occur to me until after the company I work for had thrown all of their's out. I also think that the drafting mechanism from the table could even be made into a table saw fence. I'll just have to wait until I stumble across another drafting table to try some experiments on.

1. 
   Scrit | Dec 04, 2005 01:15pm | #17

   If you spell the name right - Striebig - you'll find it. The ie and ei are completely different sounds in German.

   Scrit

2. 
   QCInspector | Dec 04, 2005 01:30pm | #18

   Okay thanks. Not trying to blame anyone, but I was using the spelling that mikegagne had used in his post. It never occurred to me to try and change the spelling in the search.

3. 
   Scrit | Dec 04, 2005 05:23pm | #19

   I found your ideas for using a draughting machine as a fence intriguing. I can see the possibilities for making a copy router this way providing the router motor wasn't too heavy (say a Dremel or laminate trimmer) but my experience (in the dim past) is that most draughting machines would simply be too lightweight for the task at hand - especially if you wanted to use one as a rip fence.

   Scrit

4. 
   QCInspector | Dec 04, 2005 11:02pm | #20

   You're probably right about the drafting machines strength and rigidity. It was more of a thinking exercise in in trying to make something useful out of the drafting tables that are getting junked. The idea of a fence comes from the Paralox (?) brand of fence that uses similar cabling system, although probably heavier. What you think about using the long guide rail,( with a saw / router), as a clamp on guide for straight cuts?

5. 
   Scrit | Dec 05, 2005 01:32am | #21

   That doesn't sound like a bad idea. It's a pity so much "old technology" like thsi is no longer needed.

   Scrit

5. 
   Dave | Dec 01, 2005 02:56am | #11

   A few years back, I wanted an old drafting machine so looked on Ebay.  Only bargain I could find was a lot of 10 from someone who bought out a school inventory.  I bid, and won.  Now....I don't exactly NEED 10 of em?  If you get interested, I'll be happy to send you one or two for....say....$10.00 each plus shipping?  If you want, I'll send you a picture.  There's no scales, but should be easy to make or get off Ebay as well.

   Dave (Oregon)

1. 
   butch | Dec 01, 2005 01:33pm | #12

   Dave, I usually hang out at break timeand happened upon your post, you mind posting a pix orsending me one through taunton.thanks

6. 
   BossCrunk | Dec 01, 2005 07:10pm | #13

   I've used that very model and it was fine.

7. 
   JohnAIA | Dec 07, 2005 01:11am | #23

   I am an architect and have been drafting for thirty years on everything from a kitchen table with a t-square to a computer. My favorite is my portable drafting board 24" high by 36" wide with a parallel bar (with rollers on the underside). It is covered with a soft green (or yellow) vinyl made for drafting. I use an adjustable triangle, a large 30-60-90 triangle, eraser sheild, electric eraser, drafting dots and a no. 2 (HB) pencil. Maybe you might add a H lead pencil and a blue pencil (does not photocopy). That's all you need. If you need to elevate the front of the table, I use two 6" C clamps. For a light I use a flourescent three lamp clamp-on-fixture secured to the table (not the board). You can buy all these at a local drafting supply store or if you are close to a university that has an architectural school or similar studies, you can get it there. Sure most people shucked their stuff years ago, but believe me there is nothing better than putting pencil to velllum.

1. 
   Zeroubabel | Dec 07, 2005 04:58pm | #24

   Thanks John, this is a great suggestion. I didn't think of a portable one.

   My 16 year old son wants to become an architect. I am not sure this is really for him. Would you recommend that he works as a gofer in the summer in an architect firm to get a better feel for it? any other suggestion?

   thanks.

8. 
   dan5 | Dec 09, 2005 12:34am | #25

   Look in McMaster Carr Catalog under drafting if your need is right now. Prices start at about $60.00 for a B size plastic and move up from there