Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Sep 19, 2007 10:59pm | #1

   Are you using a bit designed specifically for the joint, or generic rabbeting/chamfering bits?

   Are you trying to cut the full depth in a single pass? (If so, the answer is, "Don't do that.")

   What kind of wood are you using? Some species are much more prone to burning than others. With an especially burn-prone wood like cherry, you almost always have to remove the bulk of the waste in a series of moderately deep cuts, and then clean off the burn marks with one last very light cut.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   Wanda200 | Sep 19, 2007 11:12pm | #2

   Hi,

   I am a newbie when it comes to the router table. I have been busy reading up on the router table and its many uses. Right now I am reading Bill Hylton's book.

   The bit I am using came in a package along with 7 other router bits. A friend of mine gave me a set for Christmas. It's an ordinary 45 degree chamfering bit from Canadian Tire. It's not a specialty bit.

   With most of the router bits I've used such as roundover, cove, roundnose/core box, rabbet, straight bit I usually stage the cut. Creeping up on the final depth. If I'm using a straight routering bit I will score the piece first removing about a 1/8" of material then on the 2nd pass I will cut it to the final depth.

   I have no real  experience using a  chamfering bit. I was just following the instructions in one of my woodworking books on how to cut a mitered rabbet using the router table. I adjusted the bit for depth of cut and width the way it said in the instructions. Paying particualar attention to the illustrations. Come to think of it there must be an easier way to cut this joint using another power tool. My goodness if you have to adjust the setting 2-3 times to cut the miter........ I think I should just set up the dado blades on my table saw and cut the joint.

   My god! I think it would a lot easier cutting box joints on the router table using a jig.

   Wanda

1. 
   saschafer | Sep 20, 2007 01:52am | #3

   The attached sketch illustrates how I would do it.

   Step 1 definitely requires multiple passes. The other steps could be done in a single pass in a fairly soft wood (pine, poplar, etc.), but should be done in multiple passes in harder or burn-prone woods.

   Step 4 is the trickiest, because the alignment of the bit has to be dead-on.

   In both steps 3 and 4, the knife-edge of the miter rides along the outfeed fence, which isn't the easiest thing to control. It would be better to set up an auxiliary low fence that rides on the flat (shoulder) of the rabbet.

   -Steve

    

   
1. 
   Wanda200 | Sep 20, 2007 10:03pm | #5

   Hi Steve,

   I have mastered the box joint using the table saw. So I don't think I'll bother using the router to make them.  Doesn't take long at all using the TS. Once you have the dado blades set up.

   As for the mitered rabbet using the router... hmmmm I will have to give that another try.

   What size Chamfer bit do you use? obviously for a mitered rabbet you use a 45 degree cnamfer bit.  I'm referring to the depth of the cutting edge. A longer cutting edge would come in handy.  What is the maximum size bit diameter a 1 3/4 variable speed router can safely cut?

   Thanks again for the diagrams. I have printed them out to take down to the tool room. :)

   Wanda

1. 
   saschafer | Sep 20, 2007 11:32pm | #7

   I have two 45° chamfer bits. One is the garden-variety size that you can find most anywhere. Its maximum cutting depth is 1/2", which is fine for most things but obviously isn't enough to cut a full miter on a 3/4"-thick board. I also have a big honkin' chamfer bit ("big honkin'" is a technical term) that has a 1" depth of cut. The overall diameter of that bit is about 2-1/8". I use it mostly for making French cleats for hanging things in the shop.

   I don't know what the official maximum size bit you can handle would be. From my experience, it's more a matter of slowing down the router for big bits, and taking light cuts. If the router sounds like it's in pain, take a lighter cut.

   I've attached a photo of the two bits. The smaller one is a Bosch I picked up at Lowe's; the larger is from Lee Valley. You'll notice that the Bosch bit is missing its pilot bearing. I took it off to get some extra clearance for a weird cut I was trying to do, and haven't gotten around to putting it back on.

   -Steve

    

   
2. 
   Wanda200 | Sep 21, 2007 12:53am | #8

   Good evening Steve,

   OMG! that's is one monsterous bit. Makes the other bit look miniscule.

   How do you find the quality of the Lee Valley router bits?  Not sure how they match up against the Amana and Freud bits though. I only own 6 or so good bits. some are delta the rest Freud.

   I was planning on ordering a few router bits from Lee Valley.

   Wanda

    

3. 
   saschafer | Sep 21, 2007 01:28am | #9

   I have no complaints about the Lee Valley router bits. They did very well in a recent FWW test (second place overall, I think), and they frequently cost less than the equivalents from other vendors (something about Canada and the exchange rate, I think).

   -Steve

    

2. 
   piertechpierre | Sep 20, 2007 02:59pm | #4

   It appears you are demanding a little too much fom the tool. I use two or three passes, lowering the router a little bit at a time, and let the cutter do the job. The second pass is usually between 1/8 and 1/16th of the final tolerance. The end result is worth the patience.

    

   Pierre  

1. 
   Wanda200 | Sep 20, 2007 10:05pm | #6

   Hello,

   Yup, I guess I am expecting way too much from my tool.  I'll have to rectify that.  :)

   Wanda

3. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 21, 2007 03:36pm | #10

   One of my routers is a Porter cable 690 variable speed 1 3/4Hp.

   For what it is worth on bit size. I use a Whiteside Lock Miter bit in a PC 690 and that bit is 2 3/4 inches in diameter. This is a BIG HEAVY bit (and expensive).. The 'little 690' does not bog down or labor. Maybe because of the mass of the bit.

   I do have to slow down the router speed and make the cuts in two or more passes for best results. Using MDF (what a mess) and most plywoods I can get a nice cut in one or two passes.

   No expert on anything here, but I do use my router tables every day. Hand held routing I try to avoid if possible.

   When using 'large' bits I find that you have to control your feed rate very closely in order to limit burning the wood and I always try to take cuts that will require three or more passes (depending on the depth of cut and for the style of bit I am using).

   Sometimes I get in a hurry and try to take deeper cuts and ALWAYS get lesser quality results.

   Some woods may require many passes to get a 'clean' profile. Especially woods like Hickory, Jatoba, Purpleheart (they tend to splinter is some areas) and figured woods. I use birdseye maple a lot and that wood will ALWAYS tear out taking deep cuts.

   I learned to live with multiple passes. Yes it can be a pain especially when you use a bit like a Lock Miter or other bit that requires EXACT bit depth and height for a 'fit'.

   Now if I had a power feeder that fed the wood at a constant rate I believe you could cut most woods in one or two passes. Someday I just may get one of those!

   One other thing I thought of is a article I read once (in here?) is "Listen To Your Tools". The sound of a router tells you a lot about what the cutter is doing or trying to do.

   Hang in there! your 690 will do most cuts nicely.
   I would also suggest to get some junk/scrap hard and soft wood and practice if you have time.

   That said, I have practiced carving for years and still TERRIBLE at it!

1. 
   Wanda200 | Sep 21, 2007 07:21pm | #11

   Hi WillGeorge,

   You're right.. I should have checked the speed on the router. Yup, those monsterous bits have to be run at lower speeds. That's something I have to keep reminding myself of.

   When I have more time over the weekend I should try using that  chamfer bit again. see if I can get that 45 degree angle cut. This time I'll take a few passes instead of trying to hog off too much material.

   Wanda