Replies

1. 
   gossamershavings | Mar 06, 2009 09:20am | #1

   it's hard to tell... is it an inside corner? sounds like it.... interesting problem.....would a coped joint be the solution? is it a 90 degree corner where a downward 45 meets a horizontal 90? not a 45 degree corner?  i don't know if it is acceptable, but an easy solution would be a transition block/post in the corner. only have to be slightly wider than the moulding.you might want to post in breaktime...lots of awesome trim guys in there.wish i could be more help....mike

1. 
   martyviz | Mar 06, 2009 06:52pm | #3

   thanks for your advice...marty

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Mar 06, 2009 03:17pm | #2

   This is a pretty common issue that arises, not only with chair rail, but with base and crown moulding as well. It's been discussed several times over at Breaktime, with several creative and attractive solutions illunstrated with pics. You might wanna do a search over there or post your question there. Note: A pic of your situation might help a lot in coming up with a solution -- I'm not sure I really understand what you're dealing with.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

3. 
   jackplane | Mar 07, 2009 02:33am | #4

   Won't work. Can't meet those angles correctly with that trim. That said, you could instead use blocking at the corner where the pieces meet.Run the trim with butt joints into some type of larger blocking.

   Expert since 10 am.

4. 
   YesMaam27577 | Mar 07, 2009 07:18pm | #5

   I agree with others -- the geometry just doesn't work in this situation.

   As others have mentioned, you can use a corner block.

   As an alternative, you can end each piece just a bit back from the corner, and return the ends to the wall. I've done this both with, and without using rail backer.

   And I've seen one other method, though I haven't done it. If you make standard miter cuts to go around the corner, and use a rather short piece that starts out level and has the required miter to make the rise..... I guess its difficult to describe

   That short piece is key...... if it were longer, it would look like a level continuation of the rest of the room. But it is only long enough to be the transition that you need. One end of it is mitered around the corner to the level rail, the other end is mitered to match/meet the descending/ascending rail.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
1. 
   gofigure57 | Mar 08, 2009 04:21pm | #6

       YesMaam, You are correct about  turning the corner with  with a 45 miter  then turning the rail up with another miter, Unfortunately when you apply the panel you must lay out accordingly for this to work.

                             Tom.

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Mar 08, 2009 04:48pm | #7

   >>"..when you apply the panel you must lay out accordingly for this to work. "Absolutely true. The panel, and the top rail (if the top rail is different from the chair rail).

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

5. 
   Ray | Mar 09, 2009 02:06am | #8

   Check this site, maybe it'll give you some more ideas.

   http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/cutting_crown_transitions.html