Replies

1. 
   robkelly | Dec 31, 2004 11:35pm | #1

   I have made lots of fake beams from 3/4 " stock by using a lock miter to make a 3-sided long box. How to attach depends on your application.

1. 
   racwood | Jan 01, 2005 12:19am | #2

   What is a lock miter and what tool is need to make them?  I too would like to do the same beam application fr a cathedral ceiling.  Rich

1. 
   BG | Jan 01, 2005 12:52am | #3

   Rgwood,

   http://www.jesada.com/instructions/lock_miter.html

   this will give you an idea of the lock miter joint... 

2. 
   robkelly | Jan 01, 2005 09:17am | #5

   Check the link above. A glued lock miter joint is self aligning and very strong, and you can't see where the joint is.  You will need a shaper (preferably with a power feeder) or a strong router table and a 3 hp router. If you don't have those, you can do a splined miter joint on the tablesaw. It's not as strong, but for a fake beam it's adequate.

1. 
   racwood | Jan 01, 2005 08:22pm | #9

   Rob, I do have a 3 HP shaper (part of a Robland X31)  I imagine I could purchase a lock miter knife for it?  My biggest concern with such an operation is the finished look of the joints along the beam edges.  I intend to use old resawn doug fir or pine.  Since they are "fake" strength isn't a great concern is it? (save for the ability for them to be hung and not fall apart in the process?)  I admit I'm not quite sure on how to hang them.  I'll follow a few more threads for that.  Thanks in advacne.  RACWOOD

1. 
   robkelly | Jan 02, 2005 04:03am | #11

   I use the lock miter cutter from Grizzly. It's about $50.00. It works on wood from 11/16" to 15/16". It is hard to set up the first few times, until you get used to it. Once you get it set on a piece of the correct thickness (using scrap to set it) save a piece as a pattern for setting it up next time. The joints along the beam edges will be invisible after sanding. My cutter has a 3/4" bore. If your Robland is different, you may have to get a cutter from someone else. If you are covering an existing drywalled beam, consider glueing it in place, using a few air nails.

   Edited 1/1/2005 8:10 pm ET by rob

3. 
   dap | Jan 01, 2005 05:18pm | #7

   Racewood,

   Let me know how your beam turns out.  How high is you ceiling? Also how long is the beam to be?

   Thanks

1. 
   racwood | Jan 01, 2005 08:28pm | #10

   Ceiling is about ten feet high.  Gabled portion of roof is also about ten  feet, flat portion about eight feet.  Between the two sections is an exisiting beam currently sheathed in sheetrock.  That will be covered to look like a large central wooden beam with the new box beams running off of it.  Still in the "dreaming stage."  RACWOOD

4. 
   oldercdn | Jan 06, 2005 04:46pm | #18

   Lee Valley has a router bit that creates a great lock mitre (Canadain spelling). The instructions that come with it excellent. 

1. 
   dap | Jan 07, 2005 05:45pm | #19

   Lefty,

   Thanks for info.  Will look into router bit.

2. 
   dap | Jan 01, 2005 05:16pm | #6

   Rob,

   Thanks for the info.  Looks like the lock miter will make the beam square corners.  What about recessing the center board.  And possibly inserting trim along the recess?  Since the beam is to be 20' long what is a good way to hide or minimize the scarf joint?

   Thanks.

1. 
   BG | Jan 01, 2005 06:14pm | #8

   Dap,

   Just a note from my stores of useless knowledge...

   If you recess the center portion then you are doing a 'boxed beam' not a 'beam' per se.  In colonial times beams were boxed in when the owner/family became more affluent....smooth boards and better fit with the plaster, etc.  ... 

2. 
   bobJackson | Jan 01, 2005 07:09am | #4

   I just set my table saw to cut an accurate 45 The lock miter in another post I feel is hard to adjust and set up. Then make the 3 sided box. Size open end to fit a 2x4  2x6 etc slip open end over it and nail.  Happy new year  all.   Bob

3. 
   3fingers | Jan 02, 2005 05:40am | #12

   I have done many beams and there is no need to buy a lock miter bit.  You can if you want i have been tempted many times. 

   You can rip a 45 on the plywood and nail it with blocking it will hold up I have one that has been up for 15 years.  You can also use biscuits and rip a 45.

   But if you are painting the beam use MDFand can make it really simple with butt joints and nails. 

    

    

1. 
   dap | Jan 02, 2005 05:42pm | #13

   Thanks, 3fingers.

   I will be using oak, 1x6 or 1x8 flat boards.  I am not sure weather to round over the edges, or recess the bottom board & add trim.  Looks like biscuits, or rabbit for bottom to side, or possible dado to recess bottom board up aprox. 3/4".  Then add trim.  Am planning to add 2x6, 2x8 to ceiling rafters, drywall to this, and then hang beam from 2x. 

   See any problems, or any suggestions.  House is still in framing stage, so have time to make changes.

   Thanks.

1. 
   3fingers | Jan 02, 2005 06:51pm | #14

   Add 2x4 (or what ever you have) backing in the ceiling where you will put the beams.

   drywall first, mud and then trim.  the only other problem I see is you don't want to see end grain from the ground.  sometimes its just personal taste.  so make a mock up and tack it up where it will go and you can judge what the whole thing will look like.

1. 
   dap | Jan 06, 2005 03:03am | #15

   3,

   Thanks.  That's kinda the way I see it to.  Should I use say a 2x8 nailed direct to rafters, drywall up to the 2x, and then hang beam.  Or would you say nail 2x on top of simi finished drywall.  Wouldn't even have to be 2x, but coud be 1x strips nailed thru to rafters.  Would this be easier to keep to a straight line? 

    

   Thanks 3fingers

1. 
   3fingers | Jan 06, 2005 07:02am | #16

   Both you want backing before drywall (ex. it is easier so you won't have to guess where rafters are. You can nail anywhere and don't have to bring out the stud finder.)  Drywall, then put up your 1x and than nail your rafters or beam to that. 

   Also the same is true for cabinets never have to search for stud again.

   Edited 1/5/2005 11:03 pm ET by 3fingers

2. 
   dap | Jan 06, 2005 02:25pm | #17

   3

   Thanks for the info.  Had not thought of backing, but would make easier to hang.  Looks like the way I will go, now just have to decide how I want the "box" to look.

    

   Thanks again.

   dap