Replies

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Sep 22, 2004 11:38pm | #1

   For any surface that is subject to heavy use, wear and water, I would opt for poly over lacquer for durablility and water resistance. 

2. 
   bill_1010 | Sep 23, 2004 02:01am | #2

   If youre asking about pre cat im assuming you have spray equipment?  If so, skip poly and pre cat and get a conversion varnish.   Its more durable then poly and precat.   Real paint stores have this or can get this since most cabinet makers use conversion varnish.   They usually label it water white or non-yellowing.  But be advised that any solvent based will amber with age.  Water based finishes however usually need to be tinted somewhat to get rid of the blueish tone they give. 

   Solvent based finishes do give wood a deeper look, whereas many water borne finishes wont give wood any deep look and give a blue hue to the overall peice, but thats my personal take.

   Either way you go, look for a finish thats been approved by the KCMA (should be Kitchen cabinet makers association)  They only approve the durable finishes that pass water and wear tests.  

   FWIW Lenmar Coatings is one brand of Converstion Varnish, S-W might and probably do make a conversion varnish but ive never inquired.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/22/2004 7:05 pm ET by WmP

3. 
   jackplane | Sep 23, 2004 10:28pm | #3

   Either one is at the top end of clearest finishes. I prefer cat. lacquer because of its unique ability to build depth with clarity.

   Because it is so hard, it can be brittle,whereas water-poly is durable but forgiving in wear resistance.

4. 
   billsams | Sep 24, 2004 02:19am | #4

   You may want to check out Highland hardware's "Cermithane" water based poly in satin, semi or gloss. I used the satin on cherry bath cabinet, goes on very smooth like lacquer, dries quickly, rated by the kitchen association for hardness.http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5098

   Less bluing than other water based finishes I have used. Very thin like an oil while applying, watch out for drips or applying too much at one time. Expensive $44.00 per gallon but worth it. They sell it by the quart also. I plan on using again it for a maple kitchen coming up.

   Bill

1. 
   bleubassplyr | Sep 24, 2004 04:30pm | #5

   Thanks. I'll check it out. The ironic thing is that I had the client bring a cabinet drawer over so I could match the finish. The finish has some amber to it, so I'm starting to wonder if it's oil based poly. I finished a scrap with oil based poly and it looks just like it. hmmm?There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Sep 24, 2004 07:47pm | #6

   Enduro has a water based poly they carry with an amber overprint.   I have had good success with their product.  It dries fast and holds up extremely well.  http://www.compliantspraysystems.com

   Edited 9/24/2004 12:47 pm ET by craig

5. 
   bronzzy | Sep 24, 2004 09:59pm | #7

   I have more experience with lacquer and if its given the time to cure properly it will give you a beautiful lasting finish.  Lacquer coatings can be durable if you have less shine powder in it.  Then it won't be as high a gloss and it won't scratch as easily.  Maple is also a very diffuse grained wood and doesn't tend to take a finish very well unless you take the proper steps.  But the only thing I would caution against the water based is that you have to make sure that your equipment is absolutely clean otherwise it is extremely difficult to remove.  Where as with lacquer you can just run lacquer thinner through the line and your spray gun will be as good as new.

1. 
   TomT226 | Sep 26, 2004 02:03pm | #8

   I use a lot of nitro lacquer for cab doors and drawer fronts.  It's easy to repair, and durable for any verticle surfaces. I wouldn't use it for table tops or any surface that might come in contact with standing water or alcohol.

   Cat lacquer and conversion varnish are tough and durable.  However, they are tough to repair without stripping the whole door or drawer face.

6. 
   notDusty | Sep 27, 2004 03:09am | #9

                        BLEU ,

         Of all the species I have finished Maple IMO takes a finish like no other . The surface is so dense and closed grain that it is more like coating metal. The build happens quickly and smoothly. Another product to consider is Prothane , a Rudd co. product. I have sprayed this on numerous moisture laden applications , exterior door, window sills and surrounds and also gets used for wood edge finish on laminate tops.Honestly spraying a finish on Maple will make you look like a genius .The working properties of Prothane were basically like lacquer .Seal , sand re- coat until you are happy.

                                 dusty

1. 
   bleubassplyr | Sep 27, 2004 05:23pm | #10

   Thanks everyone. I appreciate all the advice.There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin