Replies

1. 
   booch | Mar 13, 2003 04:40pm | #1

   You described it pretty well but I can't visualize it perfectly. A picture would be a great thing.

   First I assume this is an all in one bit? both male & female? If not (2 bits then) see how they mate and if poorly return the bit(s). Buying 2 bits is better in the long run because you can buy another router and have one setup that allows you to mill both pieces without changing depth.

   Second. I assume you've done a final "dressing pass" over the mating pieces to clean up any misses or burns in your milling.

   Third. Have you tried a glue up and clamp yet? If you Tightbond it and put a clamp on it the fibers may just (move, splay,crush) enough not to matter.

   I use two different shaper bit sets by rockwell for 1/2 inch shapers. Mine fit 99 percent. If I was building the space shuttle I'd have them remilled. However Everything I've made and still have holds w/o movement so I guess it works. That includes passage doors for a house interior.

   Do a test and see if it matters. Finally, depth adjustment or co-planar agreement of the rail & stile is rare. I think that is why we have sanders.

   Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
1. 
   ClancysBro | Mar 14, 2003 01:04am | #2

   Good post Booch. Door shops use shapers all the way and I also have found the perfect fit very illusive using cope and stick router bits. Just never quite right, even after a little razor knife trimming. 

   Wide belt sanders even everything up after that, hand sanding costs extra. (look for all the cross scratches in standard kitchen door rails once) 

   Another method for you Brian would be to route your material with a nice ogee cut and then dato out the raised panel grove. Miter them together with splines and clamp- Good luck!

1. 
   booch | Mar 14, 2003 01:44am | #3

   With my interior doors I made all 6 up at one time and took them to the local lumber yard that has a 4 foot wide thickness sander. It evened them all out adn gave me a couple of hours work with the belt @ 120 grit then the ROS (not rodents of unusual size,) but random orbital sander @ 80 to 120 grit eventually.

   Good enough for rough work.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?

2. 
   BrianMcG | Mar 14, 2003 07:15am | #5

   Thanks! Cool method... Think I have the reversible bit figured out. Now if I could just figure out how to post a pic on this thing....Thanks again!, Brian

2. 
   BrianMcG | Mar 14, 2003 07:12am | #4

   Hi Booch, Well I think I got it now. The single bit is made up of a profile cutter (kind of an ogee looking thing) and a flat cutter (like a slot cutting bit).The whole enchilada is reversible. I start w/ the cope cut with the slot cutter on the bottom, a bearing, then the profile on top.

   For the stick cut, it goes with the profile on bottom, slot cutter, and bearing on top. I match this set up to the test piece from the cope cut and adjust fit with brass shims.

   After several more shimming tests I have gotten very close to dead on.

   I would include a pic but haven't figured out how to do that either! Pretty new to the computer too. I'll have to find a forum for that too!

   Thanks very much for your help. Brian