I’ve got a Grizzly 1022Z table saw that I’ve had for several years. At some point I managed to ram the motor into a wall stud in my garage which seems to have put the blade alignment off. I’ve now tried to align the blade about five different times and can’t get it to come out correctly.
I can seem to get the blade aligned at 90 degrees (though it’s closer to one side than it should be, it seems to me). But then when I tilt it to 45 degrees it’s out of alignment by about a 16-th of an inch. If I go back to 90, it’s fine.
I’m thinking that I somehow tweaked the trunions out of square, but I can’t figure out how to get them back in square. There doesn’t seem to be a lot freedom in aligning them.
As a last resort, I may take the whole thing apart and open up the bolt holes in the trunion to get more adjustability; but I’d appreciate any advice or suggestions.
This is extremely frustrating and I’ve gone through it several times without success.
Edited 3/1/2009 8:07 pm ET by gmerrill
Replies
Did you go through the procedure beginning on page 49 of the manual?
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
~ Denis Diderot
Well, my manual doesn't have a page 49. But I did go through the procedure for "Blade Parallelism" on p. 25 of my manual. In fact, I've gone through that procedure about five times now -- though I quickly got to the point of figuring out that turning the saw on it's back and doing that doesn't gain you anything except a lot of extra effort. The trunion bolds (allen head) can be loosened from below with a socket wrench and extension, and then the adjustments can be made. But maybe that's been the cause of my problems.
In addition, the directions in the manual seem particularly puzzling at the point where they say "Now measure miter slot to blade". Yeah, but your saw is upside down at that point. So you can't get a decent measurement because the miter slot is ON THE BOTTOM!
Anyhow, yes, I've tried that. If I decide to take the whole thing apart, I'll be doing it again, but what's puzzling is that the blade appears to align at 90 degrees and not 45. The only thing I can think of that explains that is that either (a) something is bent, or (b) as the mechanism rotates along the trunion slots it is getting pushed out of alignment. Nothing feels funny as that's happening, but if the trunions aren't parallel I suppose that would explain it.
So perhaps the thing to do is to go through the ritual of flipping the saw over, then making sure the trunions are paralell with one another, clamp them firmly, align the blade (however you do that with the miter slots on on the bottom and facing the floor), and see how that works.
Another problem I've run into is that when you do try to move the blade into alignment, you tend to run out of room for the handwheel to seat on the roll pin on its shaft. But one thing at a time.
The manual refers to shimming to bring it into alignment at 45 degrees.
The manual is too large to attach here. Send me your e-mail address and I'll shoot it to you.
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
"The manual refers to shimming to bring it into alignment at 45 degrees."
Aha! Thanks so much for pointing this out. In fact, I have that manual as well (downloaded it from Grizzly some time ago), but never really read through it or realized that its TWICE AS LONG as the (paper) manual that came with the saw -- which has one pretty terse page on blade parallelism.
I see the section about shimming in the PDF manual and will proceed with that.
Thanks again.
Don, when I had the same problem with my Jet contractor saw years ago, it was due to the big connector rods between the trunions getting shoved out of square. A few forum posts have been made over the years from members who had jammed the motor into a solid outfeed table, creating the same problem for the same basic reason -- that rod/trunnion unit being out of square.
Shouldn't he check that before doing any shimming? Can you explain how to re-square it?? I had to have a pro repairman do it, lest I end up in a little green room wearing a little white wrap-around jacket.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Shimming per the instructions should square things back up. It's highly unlikely a home shop would have the tools neccessary to bend things back to where shimming is not required.
I wouldn't be a bit surprised if your Jet was shimmed back to square, it's by far the cost effective way to do it.
We had to do it for customers a couple times a year in the store.
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
Don, nothing was bent on the Jet. It (the assembly -- rods and trunnions) just got/get shoved out of square, forming a parallelogram instead of a rectangle. No shims on the Jet. This is a common problem with contractor saws. There used to be a fix-it article on the internet, but I can't find it now and have my doubts how efficacious the procedure really was.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
If you look at the exploded view of his saw you will see that the linking rods have a shoulder machined on them. These shoulders butt up against the inside of the trunnions. The rods are secured with nuts on the outside of the trunnion. They are not free to slide to and fro. It is difficult to imagine this assembly forming a trapezoid without bending something. A twist I could see and the cure for that is shims.
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
I tend to agree with Don on this. It's difficult to imagine that I actually BENT those rods (they're close to 3/4" diameter) or the cast trunions into which they seat. But I'll do my best to see if all that is square. My first thought was exactly that I was dealing with a parallelogram instead of a square, but even if I am there's not a whole lot I could do about it, I think, since the rods in fact seat against the trunions with their shoulders and the tolerances look pretty tight.
In all honesty, I'm not entirely sure the saw blade was ever aligned correctly at 45 deg. I almost never used to cut anything at that angle with it. Only recently have I been paying attention to really careful alignment (since I've gotten into box making) and made a crosscut sled. The sled is binding on the blade when set at 45 deg. Wlhen I checked, it was out about 1/16".
I was also having trouble visualizing how the blade could be okay at 90 and not at 45, but I can see how that would happen now if the plane of the trunions isn't parallel with the plane of the table.
My guess is that shimming will work. Unfortunately, I may then need to make a new sled if the one I just made is no longer square with the blade :-( . But maybe if I'm real careful, I won't need to. I mean, square is square, right? And I squared the sled with the blade at 90. But making another sled isn't the end of the world.
Thanks for all the help.
Unfortunately, I may then need to make a new sled if the one I just made is no longer square with the blade :-( .
And then again maybe you can addapt some removable MDF inserts for your 'common' cuts into you existing sled. The bottom is easy, the front and back fence inserts may be a challenge depending on how many different (and how deep) cuts you usually make.
Did you get it squared away?
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
I wasn't able to work on it until yesterday and today. However, today I did get it aligned at both 90 and 45 degrees. This required only shimming the front trunion by inserting one washer on each bolt (8mm diameter washer). It now appears to be aligned perfectly.
Thanks foryour help.
Good job!
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
I'll have to take a look later today. Perhaps it's bult differently from the Jet?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Try this procedure. Always works for me.
http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/docs/tune-up.pdf
Don
That only works for 90 degrees and he's already accomplished that. He's going to need to shim the trunions per Grizzlys instructions to bring it in at 45.
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
"I'm thinking that I somehow tweaked the trunions out of square, but I can't figure out how to get them back in square." IMHO, there's a good chance you are spot on with that thinking. I had exactly the same frustrating problem with an old contractor saw that was given to me years ago (dead motor). I suspect it was probably dropped when the guys loaded it into my van.
Wish I could describe how to fix it, but I can't. From what I understand, it's "easy when you know how to do it" LOL! I had the darned thing upside-down for two days, couldn't figure it out. Finally got the name of a repairman who works on machines at the lumber stores and mills around here, took it to him and he fixed it.
I jotted a note to dgreen, perhaps he can explain.
Link to manual with page 49 etc. as suggested by another.
http://grizzly.com/images/manuals/g1022z_m.pdf
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