Can you convert Performax 16-32 to 220
Is it possible to convert the Performax 16-32 to 220? I don’t have a 110-20amp plug only 15amp in the garage, but have 220. The last time I used it the machine kept getting hot and shutting off.
Is it possible to convert the Performax 16-32 to 220? I don’t have a 110-20amp plug only 15amp in the garage, but have 220. The last time I used it the machine kept getting hot and shutting off.
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Replies
Accoriding to the manual the drive motor is 120 volt rated. The conveyor control is only 120 volt so the answer would be no according to the manual. What's the amps on the 220 volt outlet? You could convert the 220 outlet to a pair of 120 volt outlets by changing the breaker.
Even if you could convert the motor to 220V, it's not going to address any heat issues. The motor will consume the same amount of energy to do the same amount of work independent of the voltage supply.
Having some experience with the Performax sanders (I have a 22-44) I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you are trying to hog off to much in a single pass. I've found with most hardwoods, you can't take off more than 1/32" at a pass. Some I've even run lighter than that (cherry or maple) to avoid burning the wood.
As you demand more from the machine, the motor will use more energy, generating more heat and eventually hitting the point where the heat overload switch kicks in. Try going a little lighter and see if it helps.
Jim
True, but if he is drawing near the limit of the circuit, the circuit voltage could be 'sagging'. Low voltage can cause tools to overheat (one reason to use a beefy extension cord).
Speaking of which, you are using a 14 guage cord, right?
"I've found with most hardwoods, you can't take off more than 1/32" at a pass."
Hi Jim,
At 1/32" per pass, you're taking off four times as much material as we allow students to remove when using the finishing sanders at school; we limit students to taking between 1/100" and 1/200" per pass on our finishing sanders. We do this to prevent overheating and the possibility of pushing the drum out of parallel with the conveyor (which has happened before).
Thankfully, this isn't usually much of a limitation; with properly prepared stock, only a few passes are required.
We also prohibit students from processing woods with any visible glue on the surface to be sanded, and woods that are particularly oily (e.g.: cocobolo) or resinous (e.g.: pines) because they load the abrasive far too quickly.
Of course, in a shop used by a single, responsible, woodworker such severe limitations may not be necessary - just thought I'd pass along the rules we came up with after several thousand students had taught us what not to allow!
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Makes a lot of sense. I can't say I use my drum sander as much for finishing as I do simply very minor adjustments to thickness. Lately I've been working with a lot of curly maple, which tears like a SOB through the planer. So I'll do the hard work on the planer, with the last cut or 2 being extremely light, then run 60-80 grit in the drum sander to bring to final thickness. Typically, I'm only taking off 1/128 to 1/64 per pass. I'll only hog it up to 1/32 if the piece I'm milling is to wide for my bench planer and I have a lot to take off. I'll usually run 40 grit then.Jim
"There are two spiritual dangers in not owning a farm. One is the danger of supposing that breakfast comes from the grocery, and the other is that heat comes from the furnace." - Aldo Leopold
Sorry, Just checked the name plate data on the motor tags at work and the drum and feeder motors are single voltage motors. I know my 10/20 with 1 HP is sensitive about being a hog. 1/4 turn or 1/64" is about all she likes to do with 80 grit on 3" maple. Any more and the overload likes to trip out. I generally remove about 1/8 turn at a time. After all it is just a sander and like a Woman a gentile kiss goes a long way to keep them happy.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
The fault is more likely in the wiring than in the motor. If the plug is a long distance from the main panel and/or has only 14 gauge wire, and possibly has something else like a vac or lights running on the same circuit, then you will have a significant voltage drop which will overheat a motor quickly.
John White, Shop Manger, Fine Woodworking Magazine
I have a 60amp sub panel in my garage and it was running out of the same outlet as my dust collector. I then switched it to my regular garage outlet that comes from the house. The garage is attached. I had the same problem.
After reading the post I believe I was overloading the machine. I had some Birdseye Maple that I was actually milling to size. Started with 36grit then 80 then 120. It was tearing out pretty bad with the planer.
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