Can I use an old solid wood core door…
Jeffrey_P._Bengston | Posted in General Discussion on
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The company I work for is moving into/remodelling a new shop. The pre-remodel shop had many old doors that are being disposed of. It’s beyond me why. Anyway, I got one of these doors. It is a solid wood door constructed of very tight grained (some of the tightest I’ve seen) clear vertical grain fir. It is sandwiched between 1/8″ plywood sheathing.
I’m working on a plan for a router table and I’m wondering if a section of this door would be suitable as the router table top. This door was probably made in the 50’s or 60’s and is still flat as a pancake. If it has stayed flat all these years, should it continue to stay flat as a router table top? Or should I just go with MDF or some other manufactured sheet good to avoid movement?
Jeff
Replies
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Jeff, I have a feeling you might want to go with a product like Melamine. One of the reasons I say this is because if your like me, you'll probably want more than just one top. I have one with miter slots going in one direction and another with slots going in another. One I use when I want a fence and the other when I only need a mitre gauge.
There is also the issue of the hole for the plate. I've found that solid core doors often have spaces between the core planks and that the planks are actually spliced wood not full single pieces. If you cut the hole and your cut is close to a splice it is not going to provide much support.
All is not lost... That door will make a great workbench or if you do like I did with a mahogany door... Make a coffee table. The one I found was about 50 years old and came from a local pub. When friends stop by and I tell them where the table came from they can't belive it. I left the underside exactly as it was.. It still says "No Minors Allowed".
Steve
*Hello Jeffrey: I have used the same thing before with excellent results. I used an older solid core birch laminated 1-5/8" thick door....the core being comprised of particle board. The 24" x 36" router table top weighs roughly 100 lbs so it is very substantial. I put an Oak trim around the perimeter and also lined the area around the table insert with oak so it would not be easily scarred by frequent removal of the router insert. No particular reason for oak...I just had some scraps that fit. I laminated the top with plastic laminate and sealed the bottom with polyurethane...all to control undesirable wild swings in moisture content. My top has been and continues to be perfectly flat and I couldn't be more pleased with it. I used a 1/4" solid aluminum insert also. I'm sure I could park my truck on this router table top with no discernable deflection.I also agree with Steve above in that this product also makes excellent work area counter tops and workbench tops. I also used it for a workbench top and I swear you could slam it with a 20 pound sledge and while it may dent, I guarantee it wouldn't flinch.Good luck and work safely.Dan
*Half of a solid core door has also served me well as a router table top, with one caveat. I never sealed it, and with humidity changes my lexan insert sometimes is a very tight fit.
*Would use it for temporary station, would not expect to get precision cuttings.Routers
*I've scrapped the door idea. I just bought a piece of 1" melamine today that will be much more reliable as a router table top.Pat, any suggestions on how to rout a perfect hole with rabbet for the Jessem router lift system? I'm having troubles figuring this out. Jeff
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