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I thought I knew how to calculate board feet, but now I am not so sure. Does anyone know the exact rules (preferably NHLA rules) for calculating board feet?
Here is my situation. I just bought about 50 board feet of cherry and I had done some calculations prior to going to the store so I would have an idea of what it would cost. When I was cashing out I noticed the total was more than what I had figured. I had attributed it to getting more than I figured. When I got home I noticed in their price list that they “…increase width to next inch to account for the ripped edge.” Is this legal?
No where have I found any reference to increasing width for a ripped edge. I know you figure board feet on the original thickness (before planed) and it makes sense you may add for the wasted material when you rip an edge but I can’t recall ever buying wood in that manner nor after scouring the web for some help do I see any reference to that effect. Thanks.
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Dave,
The lumber yard I most often visit has some ridiculous add-ons to calculate BF. In addition to the ripped edge trick you mention, they add 15% on for "shrinkage after drying". I've called around though, and found their BF prices to be more than that below other sources, so it's still worth visiting these magicians of metrology. I just remind myself ahead of time that the BF count will be 20% or so higher than I calculated when planning the project. I visit other yards too, just to see if the deal is overall better or worse.
Regards,
Dave
*When I buy exotic woods (in the rough) from my supplier here in Houston, they measure widths to the nearest 1/8". I sometimes have to remind them that they're measuring the widest end. They don't do this on purpose - workers are just to lazy to swap ends. But, when your paying $15+ /BF, every little bit helps. I also make them adjust for end split or checks. This one guy said they couldn't do that. So, I made him wait while I put that board back and got another. The other guys there generally knock off the length by the amount of the end splits.Dave - the next time you go there, only get boards that are slightly under the "next inch".ps - I notice one yard here is starting to get really bad cherry and trying to charge a premium for it. Mostly highly figured sap wood that I would consider kindling for the stove.
*Dave,I get my lumber from a local bandsaw mill rough and green. When I ask for 100 BF of 4/4, I typically end up with something like 120 BF+ assuming its really 4/4. However, the other bonus is it usually surfaces to 7/8"+. Mill operator likes to keep 'em coming back for more.
*Simple. One Board Foot is 144 cubic inches. So a 1 foot by 1 foot by 1 inch board is (12 * 12 * 1) which is 144 cubic inches or in^3.Just break everything into inches and calcuate volume. Then divide by 144.Note that often you see a surcharge in BF costs for thicker stock. This is not compensation for extra thickness... thick stock costs more per BF than thinner stock. But its still BF and 1 BF is 144 cubic inches.Good Luck
*Yes. Tradition has it that raw cut lumber is 4/4 thick. In hardwoods, this can include all sorts of goofy edges including bark, warf, curvey edges, etc. The cost of lumber for 4/4 raw is for the lumber only.Where I go, there is a 50 cent per BF surcharge for cutting off one edge and planing the top and bottom sides. I think its called straight lining. The board foot cost is BEFORE the milling operation. So I compute cubic inches before sawing and cutting, then straight line one edge and plane to 7/8 to 3/4 inch thickness. Then add on the milling costs. One reason I like to buy raw and finish myself!!!! Irregular shapes are based on the smallest square that will fully hold the goofy volume. For example, if a flitch cut were done through a crotch region. Certainly, that area of wood will be figured so I am happy to get it. Hope this helps.
*The yard I use most often has some good folks measuring hardwood. They use a tally stick and round down to the nearest inch, of the narrow end, and measue length to the split, tearout, or other defect. This is something I have been taking for granted, but maybe I'm luckier than I knew. There have been a few times I've walked out shaking my head at the palty sum I paid for a dozen board feet of cherry.
*I used to buy a lot of lumber as "S2S, & straight line ripped one side". I think they added 10 cents/bf to do that. S2S meant sanded two sides. This added expense saved me considerable time. They had a double sided 36" belt sander that would blow through that stuff in one pass. They could sand 1000bf in less than an hour.
*Thanks everyone. It seems there is no one proper way to measure board feet and if there is it is not being adhered to consistently.
*Dave, When I buy at the sawmill they measure a piece that is 8'6" as an eight footer because you'll lose some of each end. They also measure 5/4 as 4/4 because of shrinkage. In addition if a boaed has a defecr that covers about a1/3 of it I only get charged for 1/2 of it and anything that is 1/2 or more defective is free. Similarly 20+foot long beams get charged at 18 feet and they are always willing to let me have any board that is sawn to less than 4/4 free.Of course I purchase tens of thousand bd. ft. per year so I think they tend to be more generous with me than most..
*does anyone have any experience with a cambell-hausfeld hvlp self contained sprayer? glen
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