Hi all
I have a Byrd Shilex head on my Grizzly 20″ planer.
I removed the cutters to clean and replace bad ones.
My cuts are great but seem to have ridges running the length of the boards.
Any suggestions here.
Jeff
Hi all
I have a Byrd Shilex head on my Grizzly 20″ planer.
I removed the cutters to clean and replace bad ones.
My cuts are great but seem to have ridges running the length of the boards.
Any suggestions here.
Jeff
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Replies
Why would you not contact Byrd first? I have a customer I maintain there machines with a Northtech 24" planer with a regular insert cutter head and it leaves small lines as well. Sands off easily. No worse then the standard planer ripples. A planer isn't going top give a ready for the finish surface anyway. It appears that some expect the Byrd head to do just that!
You should see the surface the earlier insert cutter heads left behind. They were originally designed as a rough heavy stock removal head and that they were.
Hi Rick
I had less lines before I cleaned and replaced some inserts, almost unfeelable, now there is an obvious line that stands out.
And yes, I am waiting for a call back from Byrd.
Then perhaps you didn't seat the cutter the same or a spec of dust if it's in one particular spot. Did you mike the insert and compare it with an older one. Inserts are pretty made with tight tolerances. Typically inserts are made bu just a few major companies. Byrd certainly doesn't make the inserts.
Make sure you don't over tighten them. I recently had to drill out the mounting screw for 51 insert knives out of 145 because someone over tughtened them. I had to use a carbide drill and easy out.
Rick
I'll dig out a mic and start checking.
I did use a torque wrench set to Byrd's spec.
Can one or 2 small blades cause a full ridge?
Jeff
A planer isn't going top give a ready for the finish surface anyway.
I know that I don't have one of these big planers you are talking about but my 13" DeWalt DW735 planes so smooth that it comes out finish ready.
The small planers do leave a better finish due to the high rpm of the cutter head and slow feed. Cuts per inch, but if you put a darkstain on it will still show knife marks. A clear finish is more forgiving. I am constantly telling new guys to slow down when using a random orbit sander. They tend to move very rapidly. I then take a dark stain to the wood and the zig zag figure 8's show up.
I still don't know that I agree with the ridges part but I'll take your word on it though. Why is it though the bigger machines are slowed down and higher rpm. When I think of the bigger ones I would think they would be better than my little box planer. Is this an issue of HP or what?
Take some dark stain on a freshly planed wood. Compare it to feeding a board fast and slow on your jointer and look at the surface and observe the knife marks.
A bigger planer will take more stock off in one pass. The little planers have smaller diameter cutter heads and use a router motor, which is high speed and geared down to give sufficient torque. The little planers will give a nicer finish. Even a drum sander leaves those little ripples.
I've been maintaining these machines in factories and custom shops for over 30 years so you pick up all the subtleties.
Unfortunately, the ridges are typical for this type of cutter. While they greatly reduce tear-out and last forever... you will still have to do a little cleanup. For my, a quick pass with a #4 smoother or some 220 grit will clean it all up. At most, you should only have ridges .001 to .003 deep. Anything more than that may require more troubleshooting.
Good luck
T
Believe me, this is a ridge.
I can see and feel them and sanding won't romove them easily.
Jeff
They could be caused be several things. In my case, I was able to isolate the blade with one of these (attached link). There was actually a small bur under one of the blades that caused the problem.
With that said, it could be caused by:
having dull and sharp blades around the cutter. Have you had to rotate many of the blades? If so, the slight variation in the blade could be your problem.
Any dust or oil under your blades? Basically, anything that would keep a blade from being fully seated.
The tension on the screw that holds the blade. You don't need an exact torque... but you can have a problem if the screws are way off.
http://www.oneway.ca/workshop/multi-gauge.htm
If all else fails... I'll trade you for my 12" delta! "Even-Steven" :0)
T
I think that's a great idea.
I have a Oneway guage.
Last time I had a major project like this, I had Rick come up and do my Jointer.
I guess I'll start testing.
Jeff
let us know how it turns out. I used a small sharpie to mark each blade tested. As you know, there are a bunch of them.
Are the ridges you're getting parralel to the length of the board, or perpendicular? When I first got the Byrd for my jointer, I had ridges that ran the length of the board, parralel to the edge of the board. They sort of looked like railroad rails - long parralel ridges. I located the offending cutters, rotated them 90° and now my surfaces are smooth as a baby's bottom. Ripples I can understand; I think since the cutter is cutting on an arc it's bound to leave some ripples, but that's not what I think of when I hear the word ridges.
Quickstep
Yes, railroad tracks.
Byrd suggests I find the offending head(s) and check them for proper seating.
Jeff
I had the same problem when I installed the Byrd head on my jointer. You can line the ridge on the board up with the inserts and narrow the problem down to a couple of inserts. I then took the possible inserts off one at a time and ran a board to see if I the ridge disappeared. Once it did , I changed that insert.
I followed the process 48 describes. No problem since........
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