I am now looking at purchasing a new jointer-type hand plane, specifically the Lie-Nielson #7. My small planes just aren’t cutting it size-wise for this job despite their being razor sharp. I now really see the neccessity of having a totally flat bench top and it seems that a plane made specifically for this purpose may be a wise purchase.
For this and other purposes down the road can anyone recommend this plane…or another?(#6 or #8 or another instead?)
Thanks for your time.
Mike
Replies
I'd also take a look at the Veritas planes from Lee Valley. Not as pricey with interesting features.
Buy the Lie Nielson's for two reasons, if you buy anything else, you'll regret it and I'm on a campaign to have tool makers actually ship their planes ready to use.. not something you need to repair in order to get it to work! To my knowledge Lie Nielson is the only company to do so..
Frenchy LN doesn't sell there planes ready to use. They still need a final honing to get a good edge on the blade.Scott C. Frankland
Scott's WOODWORKING Website"This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"
I'm sorry all four of mine arrived ready to work.. and I did just that putting them to work..
`that is exactly why I intend to purchase a few more (in spite of my dislike to do things without a power cord attached to it) ;-)
tools should arrive ready to work! Those that aren't should be returned. Now there are some of you who need to do a final honing for your own reasons, that's fine.
My grandfather told me that when it's time to work, ve vork! (insert German accent here) when it's time to play,... den ve sharpen da tools! I guess what he ment is that there are lots of ways to avoid work, sharpening tools happens to be one of them..
Right on Frenchy. I lucked out and had two Cliftons ready to use along with a couple of L-N's. But other Cliftons weren't as ready as the L-N's. Can't see why other plane makers can't have their planes in the ready condition L-N's are. Maybe Larry Williams can provide information on why.
The planes i've gotten from Lee Valley have arrived honed and ready to use.
The only problem with Lee Valley is that their largest plane is a #6, so you'll have to decide if that's long enough. I know that nothing compares to LN when it comes to quality, but there are also few that compare to them as far as price. I have a stanley #7 and it works ok, but i'm really waiting for Lee Valley to come out with a #7, which i will snatch up very quickly.
I think that if you have $400 to spend on the LN, go for it, it's an awesome tool, i don't think you'll find many people that wouldn't recommend it. If you don't, seriously consider the Lee Valley #6, or wait and see if they are going to come out with a #7.
Hi:
I too have been buying planes of late while building Frank Klausz's workbench in the workbench book. I bought the Veritas 4 1/2 and am rather pleased. I have also purchased a Stanley # 5 and a Stanley #6 on ebay. Have used the scary sharp system to sharpen the blades and am getting pretty good results from them all. I now need a plane to flatten the workbench top. Have been watching the Stanley #7's on ebay but they are expensive. I wonder if my #6 at 18 inches long isn't long enough. Making this bench is a big job and I agree with the poster when he says that sharpening tools is playing.
Roger
rog,
Your No6 is plenty long enough. To flatten the bench you're planing diagonally across it - approx length of stroke is approx 3-4'.
Of course, a No8 would do it quicker, but they're a special purpose plane.
Cheers,
eddie
Eddie
The #6 I bought on ebay came with the blade quite sharp however kind of rounded. Do you think I should work with it like that or should I grind it square?
Thanks
Roger
rog,
That question starts a jihad on forums at times - I think I've done enough of that recently.
My experience and training was to grind blades square, except for a jack plane, which is designed to hog off reasonable amounts of material.
So, to flatten the top, a rounded blade will make the job quicker but the end result slightly undulating.
I'd use it the way that it is, see how the results turn out and then if you're not happy with the result, then flatten the blade (just dubbing the corners - 1/32" or so in a radius). Hard to tell how rounded the blade is - I'd use it and then let your eye be the judge (looking at the end result.)
That's my approach anyway - others may have a different impression.
Cheers,
eddie
Edited 1/14/2004 3:37:01 PM ET by eddie (aust)
If you're into hand planes, I've heard good things about Williams & Clark. They are hand built wood planes. I've not tried them, but have seen them, and the product and production method is amazing. It seems they appeal to the the texture and feel of the wood worker, which makes them more personal.
Hey Bob, you probably know that Larry Williams is a Knots member. If I remember correctly, he makes the molding planes, and Mr. Clark does the others. I'd sure love to have a set of their hollows and rounds. aka Steve
Hi. I just bought a book titled Traditional Woodworking Handtools written by Graham Blackburn. I watched him at the Columbus ww show. He was face planing with wooden planes and also a #6 LN. While I consider LN very well made and beautiful tools I think I will rejuvinate a couple of old wood planes I found at auctions. Graham showed and tells in his book what to look for and how to tune and set these old planes. While I've only had the book for 3 days now there does seem like there is a wealth of knowlege in here. To check his books out his web address is http://www.blackburnbooks.com. Happy planing!!!
have you tried garage sales? I picked up a Bailey No. 6 for $10.00 and put a Hock blade in it. Great old plane.
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