Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Feb 29, 2008 07:58pm | #1

   If I were going the power tool route, I would use the "rout both sides at the same time" technique: Position the two pieces that go on either side of a joint as they will be when mounted, but separated from each other by just under 1/2". Clamp them down securely, so that they can't move with respect to each other. Attach a straightedge as a guide for your router's baseplate. Run a 1/2" straight bit (don't use the bearing, if it has one) down the slot between the two pieces, trimming a bit off of both sides. Any minor irregularites on one side will be perfectly matched on the other side, so when you push them together, nothing will show.

   If I were going the hand tool route, I would use a jack plane on a shooting board to make the mating edges perfectly straight.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   fishdog | Feb 29, 2008 08:06pm | #2

   thanks.

   Dont really have the that much experience with hand planes especialy with end grain maple and never really understood a shooting board.

1. 
   saschafer | Feb 29, 2008 08:23pm | #3

   For this purpose, a shooting board just needs to be a flat, rigid surface. When a plane is lying on its side on the board, the sole of the plane is perfectly perpendicular to that surface. Therefore, any cuts you make are also perpendicular to that surface. The long sole of a jack or jointer plane ensures that the cut is straight; the shooting board technique ensures that the cut is perpendicular to the surface of the countertop. The only remaining variable is the angle of the cut, which you can fine-tune while planing to ensure a perfect fit.

   All of this assumes that you have a reasonably good-quality plane, with the sides accurately ground at 90° to the sole, etc.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   blewcrowe | Feb 29, 2008 10:24pm | #4

   First off, I don't know why a skilsaw and a straight edge wouldn't be good enough. On top of that, if the edge wasn't smooth as you like, you could probably run it through a joiner afterward. That said, the old tyme lumber yards have giant radial saws. You might be able to get them to cut the pieces for you.

1. 
   fishdog | Mar 01, 2008 12:25am | #5

   skilsaw works good,but just not clean enough. Thanks though

3. 
   JeffHeath | Mar 01, 2008 12:42am | #6

   fishdog

   It sounds like you're tool challenged.  I have the equipment to make that cut in less than 60 seconds.  Since you probably aren't going to invest in all the tools mentioned to make two cuts, then listen up.

   Draw your line with a .5 mm pencil, or even better, score the cross grain with a scoring knife  (or a razor knife, if you don't have one, tough, go buy one.) on both the top and bottom.  Use your skilsaw, and cut to within 1/16" of the line.  When you make the cut, do so with the BOTTOM of your countertop FACING UP.  A circular saw spins in the opposite direction as a tablesaw, and leaves a clean cut on the bottom face.  In this case, the bottom face will be your finished face.  Scoring the line with a knife and straightedge with sever the fibres of the wood, and help eliminate tearout on the good side of the cut.

   Make both your cuts with the skill saw on both pieces that are to be mated.  Then, since you don't have a good low angle jack plane, you are going to carefully sand each board to the scribed line. Glue some 80 grit paper to a flat piece of wood wider than the thickness of your counter.   Make sure you check it with a square frequently to make sure that your sanding is 90° to the top surface.

   There are easier ways to do this, but not with the tool set and skill set that you've mentioned.

   Jeff

1. 
   fishdog | Mar 01, 2008 12:52am | #7

   thank you for the input,at this point i am going to try the router aproach.