I’m currently researching a project. My clients have purchased a used mahogany framed conference table with leather inserts which need replacing. They want to retain the mahogany frame, refinish it, and replace the leather with burl inserts. The 8 inserts would be diamond matched, each about 3′ x 7′ in size. Each insert would have a flush mounted panel with soss hinges that would swing up to reveal A/V ports (for laptops and such.) Having the diamond matches pre-laid up on sheet goods is not an option. The panel matching is such that I feel I need to do the matching myself.
I have never worked on such a large scale with burls before, and don’t want to waste tons of materials on mistakes. I have a vacuum press to laminate the burls and sub-veneers onto my substrate.
Your input would be appreciated in helping me decide what kind of crossbanding, substrate, etc. is needed to keep the top stable and check-free. I am considering having my veneer supplier laying up the sheets in the flitch on a cross-grain backer veneer. I would then press that on a 20-mil phenolic backer over 1/2″ MDF over 20-mil phenolic over cross-grain backer. Does that sound right, or would you do it a different way.
Any other ideas or things to keep in mind?
Thanks,
Syd
Replies
Syd,
You do want to have a two ply on this table with a rigid glue line. When you vac press the two plies be sure to have your MDF cores calibrated .50 inches FLAT. Off the shelf MDF can vary and a vac press at 12 maybe 13 psi may not fully bond the two ply to an uncalibrated core. USe urea adhesive not pva for bonding the two ply to the substrate.
John
Calibrating a core? How exactly is that done?
Thanks in advance,
Michael Lomax
When you order your MDF from your supplier they can run it thru a "planer" to true up the thickness. Calibrated MDF is not much more expensive than off the shelf. Talk to your rep for their particular details.
John
John--
Thanks, never thought of having to true up MDF before. And you'd better believe i'm using urea resin!
One question, though--is it sufficient to apply the 2-ply directly to the MDF, or should I first apply another backing veneer to the core? My thought is that it would help to stabilize the veneer even more. That way, I would'nt have the joints from bookmatching the 2-ply bonded directly to the MDF.
Sound right?
If so, what would need to be done to the back of the MDF?
Thanks, Syd
Wow! One table with eight inserts, and each one is three feet by seven feet? This thing could seat the entire United Nations!
Close to it--a real Conference table. This thing takes up so much acreage, they've got to have that A/V system built in to it--otherwise they couldn't see or hear each other from across the table!
When I heard the job was a 8 x 25 conference table, I about choked and turned down the job. But the way the table is constructed, you can break it down into three jobs: Veneering the panels; trimming the panels; and screwing the panels into the frame. Okay, maybe it's not quite that simple, but, still--not an insurmountable task.
(At least, that's what I keep telling myself)
Any other suggestions you folks might have to make the job go well and the product outlive me, please let me know.
Thanks,Syd
There need not be joints against the MDF. Use a single sheet of rotary veneer for the back of the two ply. That way there is not joint line against the mdf. The sandwich would look like this.
Spliced face
rotary backer
MDF core
Backer
John
Try posting your question on this forum. http://www.vacupress.com/wwwboard/wwwboard.html
Darryl Keil the owner and moderator of the forum is very skilled at veneering and vacuum pressing and I'm sure you'll get professional advice to you questions.
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