what are these for and how do I use them?
I’m just sayin’
what are these for and how do I use them?
I’m just sayin’
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialGet instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building!
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.
Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
Good question.
No idea.
Can't trim a shoulder (lacks sufficient registration in the nose). Actually do not extend a cut all the way into a stopped rebate or dado (has too much nose). Is not a substitute for block plane (too narrow and top heavy).
Makes a good paperweight?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Can't trim a shoulder .. Gee and I thought you loved planes.
I have a Stanley #90? I think what it is. It is handy for many things. If you take the nose off it goes into places no other plane (at least what I have) will go.
Just me and my foolishness?
andy,
It's for performing rhinoplasty on narcissistic bovines, of course.
About the only time I have felt the need for a bullnose plane is in repair work. Occasionally, I have wanted to patch out a worn drawer bearer in a case or table frame that I couldn't easily disassemble. So, I must work a rabbet in the bearer in situ, to lay the repair into. A bullnose plane will plane from the deepest wear (in the center of the bearer) towards either end. Still, it is necessary to chisel away the last 1/4" or so, to make room for the bull's nose. Handy also for adjusting the odd drawer stop that is too close to a case end to allow using a conventional rabbet or shoulder plane.
Years ago, I bought the commonly available stanley bullnose (don't have a model #, as mine has no cast-in markings at all). Mostly a toy, didn't work for $hit, regardless of the amt of fiddling or fettling I tried. Then I came across an old Stanley model 90, which is somewhat (not much) larger and heavier, and much more nicely made. It works better, more easily adjusted, and less inclined to stall in the cut.
Ray
Generally, a traditional bullnose plane of the British infill variety is an excellent fitter of rabbets, and adjusting shoulders on small tenons. In much the same way as a block plane is a smaller, handier plane than a small bailey-style smoother to use on small stuff, a bullnose is a handy alternative to a larger shoulder plane. I like them very much, though the Lie-Nielsen tiny shoulder plane that's made as a non-adjustable infill plane is equally handy (and a whole lot cheaper than an antique British infill bullnose, particularly a Norris).
Andy,
Don't let them nasty naysayers get you down about your Bullnose plane. Those things are excellent for getting rid of glue squeeze-out.
Around Christmas time, groups often have parties and each person must bring something for a "gift swap". Someone might be very happy to get your bull nose. There is nothing more important than making people happy.
Speaking of Christmas reminds me of giftwrapping. The Bullnose, if placed upside down on a table, might be excellent for cutting the pieces of ribbon. If you remove the iron, it might be perfect for cutting the paper, VERY CLEANLY.
Sometimes one wants to learn a new method of sharpening and one doesn't want to possibly sacrifice a good iron from a favorite plane. SO your bullnose iron might come in handy for going to sharpening school.
Also, those nay-sayers only look at a tool for what it can do. Someone with more sensitivity can see beauty in tools. Your bull nose plane may well be a thing of great beauty. Possibly it is suitable for framing.
I hope I have been of service by being positive, and by trying to see light, where others have only seen darkness.
Peace, my brother,
Rev. Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
You've convinced me that the bullnose plane is a winner and not a sinner.
Amen.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Reverend Mel,
I've found the bullnose plane I have is not that great for cleaning glue squeeze-out. If not really careful the plane will have a habit of digging into the wood fibers underneath the glue.
My peference is the bevel side of a chisel. I have also learned to take precautions during glue-ups: namely taping of surfaces where I absolutely do not want glue squeezeouts (think stain & finish), cleaning squeezeouts when I can and finally learning that all that glue squeezing out adds nothing to the strength of the joint, so learn to use the the right amount, and learn to brush it out.
In other news, how come you aren't tending the mother of all threads? The gardener who doesn't water his garden doesn't harvest any beans in the fall.
T.Z.
Tony,
You are a wise man.
Gotta go back to the mother thread.
We gotta get some juicy ideas going there. I will work on that with your help.
Thank you.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
I love the challenge to translate the costumers wish into reality.Then I married her..
She put up with me!
And my Stanley #90.. Great plane for those special jobs that no other can do unless you are very skilled with hand chisels!
Andy,
Read here,http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html, and you will see that some of them are of use, especially the #11.
Others are the #90, 75 and 80.
If the front part is removable some might consider it useful (as a chisel plane). The #11 had a clever deal with the depth of cut and relation with the toe....
I have been finding many more uses for the large collection of handplanes that I have aquired. This is since I have been getting serious about tuning them and sharpening. It's amazing what a plane will do if it is really sharp. I am still learning and have a long way to go but any edge should look like a mirror on both sides when it is sharp. Then get a magnifying glass and check again!
Andy,
I agree with DK - a bullnose is good for cleaning up, for example, any ledge or raggedy from a rabbet cut out of a picture-frame bit with two passes of the tablesaw; or for cleaning up inside the recess of the whole frame after it's glued up.
Then there is the business of planing a dowel top flush or knocking down any other small bump. The short nose means that you don't end up planing off the surrounding wood as easily as you would with a bigger plane - but that nose still allows you to register the plane sole on the dowel top rather than on the surround.
If you get the removable toe variety, such as the Lee Valley one, the chisel plane mode is also very useful. It gets right into the corners of boxes, drawers, picture frame recesss and similar to get rid of those bits of spelk or glue.
Lataxe
I've always been reluctant to use a bullnose for anything, since doing so means grabbing onto something at the other end. ;-)
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled