Forgive me. I asked this question in the breaktime forum but thought i may get more input on the FWW forum.
I’ve built my first set of kitchen cabinets but now i’ve got to build a “built in serving area” and i’m seeking advice how to handle something. See the attached picture. My question deals with how to handle the bottom where the 1×6 baseboard intersects with the cabinet. The build in sits back a good 8 inches from the front edge.
The built in cabinet will not have a toe kick (unlike the picture) but will be more like a standard piece of furnature. I suppose this also means that the bottom part of the cabinet (where the toe kick normally is) will sit out 3/4″ beyond the face frame and have some kind of molding above it.
How do you handle the intersection of the baseboard (stained cypress) with the bottom of this cabinet (tigerwood)?
Replies
I'd run the same base in the room on the cabinet to match. Built-ins are supposed to look as if they were always "built in".
Expert since 10 am.
There are several ways to handle it.
1. Let the 6" high baseboard continue across the toekick of the built-in. I know you said this wasn't the case, but it's the obvious solution.
2. Make the cabinet narrower than the niche by some 3", and fit it to the sides with a filler strip (scribed as necessary) of about 1 1/2" either side. You can then run the baseboard back until it butts that strip. In any case you're gonna need some minimal clearance from the wall for the doors/drawers.
3. Make the cabinet a few inches smaller than the niche, finished as a free-standing unit, and run the baseboard all the way around the walls. Making it as a real free-standing serving piece will let you put the cabinet on concealed wheels.
Take your pick.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
i'm leaning towards option 2 which if i understand you right would look something like the picture attached. I'm assuming option 1 looks just like option 2 but with the material running across the front base of the cabinet being cypress instead of tigerwood. Am i understanding you correctly? Originally i was worried that having the toe kick piece this high (5.5") would look odd but maybe not.
Yes, right. But if you do it this way (#2) you can run the filler strip down to the floor, and make the unit's toekick any height you want. The whole point of this solution is that it frees you from having to keep the same height as the baseboard.David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
David:
Thanks much.
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