Replies

1. 
   robkelly1 | Dec 07, 2003 04:51am | #1

   I have never been able to find one for doors. The articles in FW are really not helpful. There's been a lot on this site in the last 2 or 3 years concerning doors, mostly by me. Search for entry door and  passage door here and FHB. As for windows, I've never made them. I use 100% vinyl.

   The short answer for front doors is 36" x 80", 7/4 lumber, cope and stick six panel, 5" stiles, 10" rail at bottom,   6" rail at top,  5" rail at knob height (so there's room for the mail slot) 4" rail for the one at eye height, 4" stile down the middle, panel heights 28", 22" and balance to fit, usually about 8". Panels are full 5/4 wood,but up to 6/4 is OK.  Use floating tenons. Build the frame first, dry assemble with pencil registration marks, clamp dry and make sure it's square, measure for panels between the reveals and make them 1/4" smaller in each dimension so they float.  Block the bottom groove and one side groove with 1/8" shims to keep the panel centered. Glue up in stages. For a sheltered door (on a porch) Titebond II is fine. Exposed door, use epoxy-- West or MAS. Taper the hinge side and the strike side about 3/32" towards the inside of the door before inletting for the hinges and lock.

2. 
   rslatm | Dec 07, 2003 10:06pm | #2

   I've seen many good books on doors and windows over the years. A lot of the old carpentry books have info not to mention The Audel Millwork Books. Your question is more suited to Fine Home Bulding than Fine Woodworking. The topic architedtural millwork is where you will find information. Also FHB has some good sources for weather proofing strips that can be added to new or old windows and doors.
1. 
   MikeWalsh | Dec 07, 2003 11:28pm | #3

   Thanks.

   When I asked at FHB, I got no answers.  A search of this group got me lots of stuff on doors, as well as some stuff on windows.

   Apparently making your own doors and windows is more popular here.

1. 
   clampman2 | Dec 08, 2003 01:17am | #4

   I think the easiest thing to do would be to just scrounge up an old double hung and disect it.

   Doors can be done on a shaper with the addition of dowels, since standard cope and stick cutters do not provide a strong enough rail to stile joint for passage or entry doors. Floating tennons can also be used (if you don't like dowels) in conjunction with a shaper.

   I don't know of any books offhand, but you could spend some time searching.

   Clampman

3. 
   numbfinger | Dec 08, 2003 02:00am | #5

   I posted awhile back on the window thing as well (knots & breaktime). No replies unfortunately :(

   I jokingly stated "other than buying one and disassembling it!"

   However, I think that is exactly what I'm going to do. I'm trying to build casement windows, and the biggest stumbling block for me is how to integrate the hardware.   

   Let us know if you come across any useful resources.

1. 
   jako17 | Dec 08, 2003 02:30am | #6

   Hi there PM I have built many casement and awning windows in the distant past and I suggest that you use Truth hardware .It is fairly easy to fit. Rabate in the sash for the top and bottom hinge and a right angled moulding to cover the actuator mechanism on the bottom jamb.This also has a groove in it for the weather bulb. I try to keep the sash size under 60" h and more than 14" and less than 24 "w.This is because the weight of the glass gets too much,also there is more chance of the sash winding.Less than 14" it starts to get tight for the operator arm.Though I have gone as narrow as 12"Because I have too warranty my work, anything bigger I outsource,then it is someone else's problem.

2. 
   MikeWalsh | Dec 08, 2003 02:54am | #7

   I found the following in Knots --

   Doormaking Patterns & Ideas by John Birchard. Sterling Publishing Co. Inc. New York

   Handcrafted Doors and Windows by Amy Saffarano Rowland, Rodale Press. That book also has a list of custom door crafters.

   The Birchard book is much more informative as to construction and finish. It has a lot of information about hanging, door frame etc.. He also discusses the various woods and finishes.

   Sorry, I didn't keep the reference.

   I've had double-hung, 1880s oak windows apart, but it was a while ago, and I'm sure that there are hints floating around that would make the task of building new, old windows easier.

1. 
   MikeWalsh | Dec 08, 2003 04:49am | #8

   I found this --

   http://www.cmtusa.com/store/docs/sash.pdf

   Helps a little.

2. 
   jako17 | Dec 08, 2003 06:06am | #9

   The problem with double hungs and single hung is getting a good weatherseal at the meeting rail and avoiding those ugly spring balances at the jamb.The old weight boxes transmit a lot of cold.I notice that the CMT cutters only allow for 1 3/8 stock most traditional windows are 1 3/4 stock.Bearing in mind the weight of thermo glass IMO you need 1 3/4 stock

1. 
   MikeWalsh | Dec 08, 2003 08:12pm | #10

   Bearing in mind the weight of thermo glass IMO you need 1 3/4 stock.

   I agree.  But I'm getting somewhere.  I had NO information when I started.

   The windows I'm replacing are 100 years+ old, and the walls are thick, so I should be able to put in new thermopanes, IF I can find the right shaper bit(s).  Historic district.

1. 
   Novy | Dec 08, 2003 11:07pm | #11

   Delta makes a set of 1 3/4" sash bitsOn a hill by the harbour