I’ve been having difficulty building the level of gloss I want using shellac on my recent figured maple pieces. I’m not looking for a high gloss end point but rather a soft satin look I have been using the following techniques.
1. Plane, scrape and/or sand to 180 grit. I try to finish with a scraper wherever possible.
2. Using water based dyes, I put down a light coat of dye, sand most of it off using 180 grit paper to leave the figure highlighted. I then apply a second coat of dye and sand lightly after it has dried overnight.
3. Apply one heavy coat of BLO or a couple of light coats of Tried & True Varnish Oil and allowing it to dry for at least 24 hours, usually longer. I’ve used the T & T because I like the color it imparts a bit better but not the final finish appearance.
4. Applying 4 coats of 2 lb cut garnet shellac that has been freshly prepared in denatured alcohol and decanting the somewhat clear top solution to leave the wax behind. Each coat is applied using a natural bristle brush and allowed to dry for at least one hour and usually overnight. I have been lightly rubbing out between coats with maroon Scotchbrite pads.
5. Applying a coat of high grade furniture wax with a white Scotchbrite pad, letting it dry for an hour or so and buffing with toweling.
Unfortunately, I am not getting any significant satin appearance using this technique. I’d best describe it as a sort of matte appearance.
Am I expecting too much from the use of shellac or is there a flaw in what I am doing?
Replies
AEW,
Try using padding lacquer over the rubbed out shellac. It will quickly build to a very high (wet) gloss. I find the gloss it leaves to be too much of a good thing, so I knock the gloss down a bit, with 4/0 steel wool and a rubbing lubricant. While you can put padding lacquer over shellac, the reverse is not possible.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Shellac is perfectly suited for any sheen up to and including high gloss--it is naturally a gloss finish. But, I think you could modify your technique to get you there. The maroon Scotchbrite is relatively coarse for my tastes. I much prefer 320 grit paper between coats, though it is not necessary to sand shellac unless there are defects you wish to remove. If you have leveled the surface, then use the paper on a padded block, if you have the subtle variations of hand work, then use it directly by hand. If you want to use the Scotchbrite on the hand work surfaces go with the grey. Then when you have built a sufficient film, you can do a more comprehensive rubbing out proceedure. Depending on how your "coats" are applied you may need one or two more for safety in avoiding cutting through, since a full rubbing out process will remove more material. You still don't want to end up with a thick film.
After you have applied your last application of shellac, and it has well dried, you can start rubbing out by removing defects with the finest grade of sand paper that will accomplish the job in a reasonable time. This could be 600 grit. This will give a very dull satin. Then skip up to about 1200 grit (CAMI) or P2000 under the European system to remove scratches left by the 600 grit. Finally, go to a final abrasive to determine the sheen.
Rottenstone, lubricated with light mineral oil, on clean felt gives a gloss finish, though somewhat softened. Pumice, 4F, lubricated the same way gives a satin. Going through first pumice and then rottenstone is not necessary. Alternatively, commercial compounds give a variety of gloss levels, if you want a soft gloss stop with a basic polishing compound, and don't progress to the "swirl remover" or the like that gets to the really high gloss. You should practice on a test board to determine what gives you the sheen you want.
Then, if you want to wax, apply it with a soft cloth.
Thanks to both of you for your replies. I'll give both a shot on some samples and see which gives me the look I'm interested in. I had not thought of padding lacquer and the other procedure looks like it might solve my problem also.
I prefer to make my own shellac polish from blond flakes. I use about 2 or 3 tablespoons per one quart of alcohol. I apply seevral oatrs depending on the wood. Before I apply the polish I burnish the wood using very fine cherry shavings (probably about .001 to .0015 thick. You can easily see through the shavings). When I am finally done then I burnish the finish using a soft rag with no wrinkles in it using moderate pressure.
I have found that dyes and stains tend to hide the wood underneath.
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