Replies

1. 
   woodwish | Jun 10, 2007 04:17am | #1

   I have stored laminate loosely rolled, maybe 18" dia, and never noticed really having much memory.  What little memory it has is no match to contact cement anyway.  I usually store it between a couple of sheets of plywood standing on edge just beacuse it is easy.

   I have used those small 4" disposable rollers with very short nap.  I use the 4" roller for two reasons- 1) it is a good size and they are cheap in the disposable category, and 2) it will fit in the gallon can.  Sometimes if the levels work out right I can just leave it in the can and use again later.

2. 
   Cincinnati | Jun 10, 2007 02:34pm | #2

   When you laminate any overlay to a substrate, unless you laminate both sides of the substrate, you can get bowing of the composite.

   You can avoid this by gluing two pieces of equal thickness or by having two outer layers of equal thickness laminated to the center layer. ( It's the same principle of trying to laminate one side of a document. It won't lay flat unless you laminate the front and back.)

   GREG

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35

3. 
   pirollodesign | Jun 10, 2007 05:28pm | #3

   Webby,

   You might also consider a torsion box design to eliminate the bowing
   you are referring to. I've had success so far with this.

   http://www.fineboxes.com/RouterTableProject.htm

   Norm

    

    

4. 
   webby | Jun 10, 2007 05:58pm | #4

   Thanks everyone for the suggestions and good information.

   Webby

5. 
   Bartee | Jun 11, 2007 04:37am | #5

   Here is what I learned from my experience.

   1st of all is link to my Router table Picture album.

   http://picasaweb.google.com/bartee/RouterTable

   I built the NORM table but made it about 3 inches deeper. I did buy the plan. I would recommend cutting and building the drawer boxes after the cabinet is assembled. I was 1/8" off on width which makes sliders very hard to install.

   I built the top from 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF. You really have to get the glue thin and very evenly spread when gluing the two sheets together. I used concrete block as weight to hold the two piece together after gluing. If you do use MDF I think TiteBond III is thinner that Titebond II Or use the LeeValley PVA glue, which I know is thinner.

   You need to have a large flat surface to do the glue up. Most guys use the top of their table saw.

   I had an terrible time getting the laminate contact glue to work on MDF. I have done two other large surfaces on plywood ( HD Sandeply ) and the laminate glue process was MUCH easier.

   You might want to consider a layer of MDF on the bottom and a layer of ply for the top. ( real russian birch would be great if you can get it). I am assuming that you will be banding the top so it really does not make any difference.

   About storing the laminate. I just stand it up between two sheets of plywood that I always seem to have leaning against the wall. BE CAREFUL laminate ( formica ) will "rip" along the edge. I don't know how to explain that exactly but it has happened to me.

   You did not ask, but I cut the laminate about 3/8" larger than the surface and then use router with laminate trimmer to finish. Works great. I just use my skill saw and a straight line on the laminate sheet.

   My result was very good, after all the trouble I had.

   I am very surprised and what an excellent tool my router table is. I can see lots of user in future projects.

   Please let me know if you have any other questions.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/10/2007 9:41 pm ET by Bartee

1. 
   webby | Jun 12, 2007 01:23am | #6

   Thanks for the info. I do know to cut my lamintae oversize. I am not sure I will build the cabinet right now, as I do not have much workshop space, portability may win out.

   Webby

6. 
   9619 | Jun 12, 2007 04:00pm | #7

   Webby,
   The nice thing about everyone on Knots but me is that they answer your questions. I try to provide alternatives. This expands the number of alternatives you can consider. It may lead to a better alternative than the one you were thinking of. It may also make you wonder if I was paying attention.

   In any case -- I have been doing a lot of research on router tables. I have looked at everything for sale, and many of the build-em-yerselfs. Norm's is a very nice design. But it is only for people who want a VERY good table. So if you want a very good table, why not go for the BEST.

   Look up Mark Sommerfeld's router table top and fence. He used to sell the entire cabinet, but now he just sells the plans, and you build the base yourself. It is reminescent of Norm's base. But Mark's table top is "something else". Here is his description. See if it doesn't make you drool:

   "The top and fence are the heaviest and the longest on the market!
   Table and fence are extruded aluminum, which is then CNC machined.
   The fence tracks are alongside the table, not in it, and thus do not weaken it.
   The router mounts directly to the table, and not to an insert, thus increasing strength and precision.
   The aluminum rings for changing the size of the router bit hole are aluminum, and are CNC machined to screw into the table top for exact flatness. You use a spanner wrench.
   Replaceable zero clearance fence inserts out of phenolic.
   This router table will not warp or sag, even under the heaviest of routers!"

   You can learn more about this table at:

   http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/

   I hope that I have opened your mind to router table tops which are far superior to anything you were thinking about. Why would anyone get anything else? When you get on that website, look in his catalog and you'll find the router table top and fence, etc. If you have any trouble, call the phone number they give, or call me.

   By the way, I get nothing out of this. I am not a relative of Mark's. I just like really good tools. Mark has gone WAY above the rest of the field.

   Have fun.
   Mel

   Measure your output in smiles per board foot. 

7. 
   MikeMD | Jun 12, 2007 04:55pm | #8

   I built Norm's router table, very happy except.... get a router lift instead of a plate.  I'd never build another without.  It's a hassle getting under there and trying to adjust bit height or change out bits.

    

   MIKE