Replies

1. 
   eddiefromaustralia | Dec 22, 2004 11:07pm | #1

   Michael,

   Glue and spring clamps - would work just fine.

   I assume that the edge of the plywood is hidden in the design.

   Cheers,

   eddie

   edit: I'm still a trifle unsure of how your face frame will be level with the face of the ply if it's a planted moulding - consider routing a shallow rebate, if appropriate, to sink the moulding into - should not affect the structural integrity of the unit providing that the ply still bears the weight and not the 1/4" thick moulding.

   Hope that this, in turn, makes complete sense.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/22/2004 3:14 pm ET by eddie (aust)

1. 
   Castlewerks | Dec 22, 2004 11:13pm | #2

   Thanks Eddie. Any plywood edging that would be visible (there are no face frames) have maple hardwood edge banding. What I'm wondering though is whether what I am talking about is standard practice or not for this type of situation? In other pieces that I have looked at, that appears to be the case, but it's hard to tell on a fully assembled piece. The usual concern is seasonal movement of the panel of course, in this case my concern was the slight movement of the frame and the fact that it would be glued to a panel that will not move...Thanks again.

1. 
   eddiefromaustralia | Dec 22, 2004 11:17pm | #3

   Casleworks,You could make the moulding as a bolection-type moulding that wraps around the edge of the ply - that way no-one could tell the difference.To do this, cut a very big rebate from the stock - only leaving your 1/4" behind and wasting the rest.Just food for thought.eddieedit - don't be concerned with movement in your case

   Edited 12/22/2004 3:19 pm ET by eddie (aust)

1. 
   Castlewerks | Dec 22, 2004 11:26pm | #4

   Eddie,Thanks again.Have a very happy holiday-Michael

2. 
   JohnWW | Dec 22, 2004 11:31pm | #5

   One thing to be aware of, the maple veneer probably won't look quite like any of the solid wood in the cabinet and the difference may not be apparent until after you apply the finish.  This is more likely to occur with cheaper veneered plywoods rather than the best grades, but even the best may not look exactly like the solid wood.

   To get around this you could build the end panels from solid wood the way you built the doors and then attach the panels to a sheet of 3/4 ply for structural strength.  This is how I would probably do the job rather than take the risk of a mismatch.

   John W.

1. 
   Castlewerks | Dec 23, 2004 12:01am | #6

   That's a very good point and I'd thought about that a bit. I have already built all of the rest of the kitchen cabinets with a combination of ply interiors (hard maple) and solid wood (soft maple)-- although all frame and panel work in the other cabinets is all hardwood. I found that after finishing (Waterlox) they are not an exact match but very close.....The real story here is that I need to get the case built quickly as the tops are scheuled to be installed next week... doors, drawers, etc.. don't matter, but I need a sturdy carcass. I like you suggestion though -- I could build the sides out of ply and then attach the real frame and panel later...Good idea, thanks again.--M