Hi,

After watching Christopher’s DVD on How to build a sawbench I decided to give it a try. I’m in desperate need of  sawbenches. I went down into the tool room earlier this evening to cut the notches on the legs. (I didn’t anticipate running into any problems)

I set my bevel to 10 degrees from 90 and made all the necessary markings on each leg. Only when I had the leg set up in my metal vice (mini vice) did I realize that I couldn’t cut the tenons. Too much racking. The leg pieces just wouldn’t stay put in the vice. So I had to think of another way to make the cuts.

Need some help when it comes to making a wedge to cut the notches in the leg. The only experience I have with a band saw .. is cutting curves and ripping.  

I was planning on using hand tools to build the sawbench but ran into a minor problem. I discovered that I don’t have the proper workbench or vice to hold the work secure. My bench is too high for cutting tenons/dovetails. So after attempting to cut the tenons using my LN 14″ tenon saw with no success. I had to come up with some other way to get the job done.  I figured the band saw might be up to the task.

 I crosscut a  6″wide board at a 10 degree angle using my miter saw and used that piece of scrap as a wedge.  Took my work piece (leg) over to the band saw and clamped it to the band saw top. After making a test cut on a scrap of wood I noticed the saw blade wasn’t tracking properly. I double checked the blade tension and made another cut.. same problem So I took a thinner piece of wood 1/2″ thick and pushed it through with no probem.

Perhaps it’s time to change the blade from a  3/8″ blade to a 1/2″ thick blade. I’m cutting 1 1/2″ thick construction grade lumber which I have surfaced. (douglas fir)  Would that fix the problem? Is that the solution?

It’s been a long time since I changed blades on my band saw. When adjusting the thrust bearing.. should it be just a hair behind the back of the blade? for the upper and lower guide assemblies (my band saw has round bearings) as long as I can slip a piece of paper  between the tooth and bearing that should provide enough clearance for the blade and give it the support it needs? I’d hate to have the darn blade contacting the bearings.

What blade would you recommend? 4tpi or 3tpi hooked tooth? for cutting through 1 1/2″ thick wood.

wendy