Replies

1. 
   Eef | Dec 05, 2009 01:54am | #1

   lldave,
   for some time now i have used crotch walnut, bloodwood and ebony to make cabinet pulls. after shaping with rasps and sanding to a 400 grit finish, i buff them using a charged cloth wheel mounted on my grinder. if you wish i can post some pics, but will have to wait till saturday.
   eef

1. 
   LakelandDave | Dec 05, 2009 03:43am | #2

   Hi Eef - I'd like to see the pictures when you have time. Also, I'd like to know what compounds you used to charge the wheel.Thanks - Dave

1. 
   Eef | Dec 05, 2009 05:56am | #3

   dave,
   the wheel gets charged with black or red buffing compound, the stuff that jewelers use and i will get my wife to take and upload some pics on the morrow, hopefully.
   i remain utterly computer un-savy and know that i need help.
   talk to you soon...
   eef

2. 
   Eef | Dec 06, 2009 03:49am | #4

   hi dave,
   here are the photos of the little cabinet with it's polished pulls. it is made from two crotch walnut boards, the grain being continuous around the case as well as the drawer fronts. the drawers parts are made with simple rabbet joints, as this was made before my dovetailing days, and are keyed, or feathered, with walnut. hope you enjoy it.
   eef

   
1. 
   LakelandDave | Dec 06, 2009 04:38pm | #5

   Thanks eef - Beautiful work. I'm a week or so away from applying my finish on the boxes, but I plan to experiment a little with buffing to see if it will produce what I think it will.Dave

1. 
   Jimma | Dec 06, 2009 07:10pm | #6

   Dave -- have you tried or heard of Abralon pads? They come from the automotive trade and are really great to use on wood. They come in lots of grit-equivalents, but I tend to use their 500 and 1,000 grit pads after nominal ROS sanding to 320 or higher. You put them on your hook-and-loop random orbital sander. Not cheap, but really effective. I use them on all kinds of wood, but especially useful on hard, oily wood that don't take finishes well. Look up Abralon on the web. Jim/Orlando

2. 
   LakelandDave | Dec 06, 2009 08:02pm | #7

   Thanks for your comment Jimma. I have heard of those pads, and will try them sometime. I became interested in machine buffing when, I read some comment about it. So, after 'finishing' a bandsaw box with a standard Watco oil finish, I decided to try a little buffing. My buffing compounds were old, so I decided to simply try buffing with a new, dry wheel. That was after the oil had dried about a week - but before waxing. I was surprised how much more beautiful the finish became, so I decided to try to find out more about a true buffed finish. So far, I've received a little information - but not as much as I'd like. As I told eef, I'll likely just try some experiments.Dave

3. 
   Jimma | Dec 06, 2009 09:24pm | #8

   I think Woodcraft sells a similar product to Abralon in several grits. I saw them in their store yesterday but didn't check on their prices or grit range. You could check the web site and order one to try. Abralon is sold by the box.

4. 
   Maxwell | Dec 06, 2009 10:14pm | #9

   I've been using the Beall '3-On Lathe' system for a couple of years now and I LOVE it! It is NOT for all woods, or top coated finishes, tho...
   When I was researching 'all things buffed' many techniques, products and/or work-arounds came-up on Google searches, chat around the local (Indy) Woodworking Show, and the various forums. Several things seem to be 'standard', BUT I'm NOT the expert, nor wood ever claim to be. I'm just a doer with some experience making pens, bowls, end-grain and bandsawn boxes, etc. . I'm VERY interested with other's experienced opinions, as well.
   - Materials to charge wheels: Tripoli, white diamond and carnuba wax are the Beall 3. Many other systems and product lines are similar to Beall's in that the tripoli is somewhat harsh (yep, it'll take that beautiful pen's metal finish right off and down to base metal in a quick second-DAMHIK...), the white diamond further smooths (burnishes?)the surface and removes the tripoli residues, and the carnuba gives the piece the final fingerprint free smoothness.
   - Wheels are NOT all the same. Some folks believe the make-up of the wheels just as, if not more a more important factor than the 'stuff' with which they are charged.
   - Beall directions state a BLO finish to be the least desirable to take to the wheels. I use a LOT of BLO. When I want to buff something that has BLO, I just seal it w/ shellac, laquer, alkyd varnish or tung oil product (Formby's: a blend of oil and varnish) and get a very nice finish.
   - Dark woods' (walnut esp.) pores can be 'grained-filled' with the white diamond material (Others on this forum know the exact make-up of this product, it's NOT true diamond dust) and have a very poor appearance.
   - The procedure of buffing laminates of paduk and maple,say, can 'bleed' some of the darker color onto the lighter, with less than desirable effects...
   - Mr. Beall himself is on the net in several places giving video demos of his company's products. Woodcraft used to have some vids on their site, as well.
   I started-out with wheels and sticks of stuff from my local Big Box store, got advise and more stuff from the local hardware store gurus, and screwed around for a long while before I bit the cost bullet and sprung for the Beall. Next step for me is prolly the Beall bowl buffs that get the insides of bowls.

5. 
   Jimma | Dec 06, 2009 10:23pm | #10

   I believe you have sent me a message intended for the original poster. I make furniture with typically clear or no applied finish.

   Edited 12/6/2009 2:24 pm ET by Jimma