Replies

1. 
   ak | Jan 30, 2008 09:29pm | #1

   NOPE! Sorry. If you want to apply a different finish you'll have to remove the wax. There may be several solutions here, but first a question: How long did you allow the three applications to dry and discovered the scratches?

   Adam

1. 
   Woodrat1 | Jan 30, 2008 09:32pm | #3

   I applied very thin coats and allowed to dry approx.
   1 - 2 hours between coats & then buffed out.The scratches came after handling the box.
   Simple finger nail scuffs is all it took.Thanks,Bill-

1. 
   ak | Jan 30, 2008 09:53pm | #5

   I see. Well, wax isn't all that durable. The others are right, as you apply thin coats it dissolves into itself. So not real scratch resistant. If you want to put on a finish more durable, you must scrape off the wax and apply a different finish like a thinned varnish or shellac. Otherwise just buff the wax with steel wool to remove the scratches and just apply another light application. Any photos of the box?Adam

1. 
   Woodrat1 | Jan 30, 2008 10:01pm | #8

   As soon as the project is done - I'll post photos.Thanks.Bill-

2. 
   Tommo | Jan 30, 2008 09:31pm | #2

   buff it more.  and use only 1 coat of wax.  Wax bonds easily to other surfaces, but not to itself, so one coat is all you need.

3. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jan 30, 2008 09:41pm | #4

   Do I understand that you applied several coats of wax to bare wood?

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   Woodrat1 | Jan 30, 2008 10:01pm | #7

   Yes - I applied to bare wood.

1. 
   9michael9 | Jan 31, 2008 01:15am | #9

   Wax on bare wood is ok and looks good.  reapply when needed.

1. 
   Woodrat1 | Jan 31, 2008 03:34pm | #10

   Michael,Thanks. Just to clarify - I did use a sanding sealer prior to
   applying the wax as the instructions said.I have not yet decided to strip off the wax & start over.
   I am lucky that I only waxed a 2 foot square panel...
   and the piece will be more of a display item
   than a well used one.Thanks,Bill-

   Edited 1/31/2008 7:35 am ET by Woodrat1

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 31, 2008 03:56pm | #11

   Ah, ha.  Sanding sealer.  What kind of sanding sealer did you use?  That may be exactly the problem.  BriWax Original contains toluene which is a strong solvent that can attack finishes that are not fully cured.  Most recommend that it not be used over finish materials less than 8-9 months old. 

2. 
   ak | Jan 31, 2008 04:58pm | #12

   Hmm. I see exactly what you're getting at, Steve, but would there be a curing issue with a single application sanding sealer? Adam

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 31, 2008 05:29pm | #13

   Sure, sanding sealer is (usually) a fairly high solids material, while wax ends up very, very thin if it is buffed off.  Wax isn't all that hard, but it'd usually so thin that you wouldn't notice scratches in it by itself without them also being in the underlying wood or finish.  Sanding sealer is designed to scratch--that's what makes it sand so easily.  If used it needs to be coated with its compatible topcoat. 

   There is almost no good reason for sanding sealer, and especially not under wax, though you might have gotten away with it a bit better with a different wax without the powerful solvent.  Sanding sealer is designed to be used under other finishes, but it usually weakens the system anyway, except for a few particular pro finishes which specifically call for a particular sealer as a first coat. 

   At this point I'd use some stripper to remove everything and start over.  For purely show pieces you can use wax on bare wood.  Or you can use another finish--oil/varnish for example, and then apply wax over it.  But for new pieces Briwax original is not the one to use.  Briwax 2000 has removed the powerful solvents and most other waxes on the market don't have a problem either.  Still you want to wait several weeks before applying wax over any oil based or waterborne finish.  Evaporative finishes such as shellac or lacquer can be waxed after a few days.   

4. 
   ak | Jan 31, 2008 05:55pm | #14

   Thanks Steve. I've only used sanding sealer once, and that's waaaaaayyyy back when I worked in finish carpentry. I never like the stuff, but my boss thought it was a necessary product. Well, I too think it's time to take off the wax and start over with a different finish. I know this doesn't sound ideal but in the long run it is. You can use a more durable finish (varnish/oil or shellac) that will cure properly and protect and even show off your piece for a long time.Adam

5. 
   Woodrat1 | Feb 01, 2008 04:01pm | #15

   Steve & Adam,Thanks very much for your input!
   I do appreciate it very much.I will get the specifics on the sanding sealer & post
   as soon as I get home.Talk with you soon!Bill-

6. 
   Woodrat1 | Feb 05, 2008 03:41pm | #16

   Steve, Adam, et al,Sorry for the delay in replying back - life sometimes
   gets in the way of things...I used Behr Scandinavian clear wood sealer #618 pre-stain (interior / exterior)
   and then top coated with Briwax Original formula.Thanks for your interest & your help!Bill-

4. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 30, 2008 10:00pm | #6

   You cannot top coat wax with other materials.  (You might get shellac to look like it's adhering, but it still wouldn't be really sound.) 

   Wax is always going to be soft and is only for use over other finishes for appearance or on items that will seldom be handled. 

   To remove the wax use mineral spirits or naptha with lots of rags or paper towels so you remove it not just smear it around. 

   By the way, poly is varnish not a separate category, and frankly it's best reserved for finishing floors.   

   
   

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   Edited 1/31/2008 10:04 am ET by SteveSchoene