Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 18, 2008 06:53pm | #1

   A couple of pertinent questions here:  how old is the finish on the table? which "version" of Briwax are you using, the original, or the new (2000?) formula with no toluene???

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 18, 2008 07:17pm | #2

   JamieThe finish on the table is about 8 months old - Poly; the Briwax just arrived from Woodcraft, so I assume it is, as you say, without toluene.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 18, 2008 08:41pm | #3

   BriWax comes in two versions--Original, or 2000.  Both are currently sold so you have to look at the label, not the purchase date.  The original is the one with the toluene.  It's used a lot by people cleaning old furniture where the stronger solvent is a benefit.  The BriWax 2000 is what you want for relatively young furniture.  Nine months is probably OK with either.   

   As far as using a colored wax to darken a finish it's a difficult challenge.  It won't really do much on a flat surface since after you buff the wax you are left with a coating only a few molecules thick except in corners, crevices, or pores. 

    

   Edited 1/18/2008 12:44 pm ET by SteveSchoene

2. 
   forestgirl | Jan 19, 2008 06:34am | #6

   Hi, Frosty, didn't notice this morning that you were the OP.  Gotta be careful with the Briwax.  The original formula was (is) wonderful when working on antiques, if you're not allergic or sensitive to the toluene.  But it's not so good on newish finishes.  Don't know if that's what caused your problem, but it's something to consider for sure.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 19, 2008 04:27pm | #7

   The BriWax is the "Original". I saw that and thought it was like "Original (Classic) Coke". I didn't know there were two versions.
   No wonder it evaporates, dries so quickly - toluene. It says work on a "small area' at a time. That's why I went to 8" - 10" sections; which seemed to help.At any rate, it appears that I am not the first with this problem. I'll try all of the suggestions. Many thanks for the tips.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   9619 | Jan 19, 2008 04:45pm | #8

   Frosty,
   There are a number of ways to solve the problem you had with the original Briwax. You could strip the piece of furniture and then use a belt sander to take off about an eighth of an inch of wood, refinish, and then use Renaissance wax. If it was me, I would just leave the piece the way it is, and just take off my glasses when I look at it. Hope that helps.
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 19, 2008 05:21pm | #9

   Mel,I can always count on you for straight-forward, candid advice. Thanks - but in this case, I'll pass. I built this end-table a year ago but was never happy with curve of the legs: they weren't quite 'fair', to use a nautical term. So - I saved the drawer, which was well built, added a cock-bead to dress it up, and made a new table. The old table went on the burn pile. I do have my standards.Now that we've covered that, I'm ready to move on to new things - the ellipse problems of my "Oval table - how to" post. I'll call on you when I get in too deep. I'm about at the "Don't make a wave!" point now.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

3. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 19, 2008 05:38pm | #10

   MelHave you tried a comparison between Briwax and Renaissance wax? Previously I have only used Johnson's paste wax.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

4. 
   9619 | Jan 19, 2008 07:13pm | #12

   Frosty,
   I have not done a comparison of Renaissance and Briwax. I learned from your thread that there is a new version of Briwax out without the toluene. When I read the back of the can, it scared me from buying it, so I didn't. I really like the Renaissance wax. Since the museums use it, it can't be too bad. My feeling about Briwax is that it is used as a cleaner, not a wax, but I have no experience with it.Why not stop over at the "Big" thread in the Hand Tools section, and see some photos of my first grandchild.
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

5. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 20, 2008 04:41pm | #13

   Congratulations on the Grandchild! I had missed that post. You have a good-looking family, something to be proud of.Now, if you can find something from Woodcraft to supply the "new needs". Perhaps a "Box of Rags". When my kids were arriving (4 sons) we had Dydee Wash service with real cloth diapers. Nowadays, I understand they are all disposable. Too bad. Nothing beat an old, well-washed diaper as a rag in the shop.Give the new Mom, Pop and baby a well deserved hug.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

6. 
   forestgirl | Jan 20, 2008 07:04pm | #14

   Frosty, what Howard said:  "What I was taught was to apply the wax and almost immediately give it a preliminary wiping with a clean cloth to remove the excess and more evenly distribute the wax. Then let it haze over and then buff."  Very important stuff!

   Emphasize the "almost immediately" when using original Briwax, LOL.  Seriously, though, the main reason wax has gotten a reputation for being a pain to apply is because people often put on too much, and wait tooooo long to buff it out.  That two-step process is what I used when prepping antiques for sale, way back when.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

7. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 21, 2008 04:52pm | #16

   That's why I applied the wax THROUGH a cloth - but I guess I felt that if I didn't see a lot, it wasn't enough.Too soon old - too late smart. But fellow KnotHeads will help cure that. ThanksFrosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

8. 
   BG | Jan 21, 2008 05:51pm | #17

   ..dampen the cloth with some mineral spirits...makes the wax nice an thin...shortly after rubbing with cloth switch to lambs wool and keep rubbing...

9. 
   forestgirl | Jan 21, 2008 06:59pm | #18

   I've applied using #0000 steel wool, with some vigor, which heats the wax and softens it, spreading it nicely.  Not sure what difference it would make with Briwax, as I had to stop using it in the store.  My employee was extremely allergic to the toluene.  It's been eons since I used it.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

10. 
    9619 | Jan 21, 2008 12:06am | #15

    Frosty,

    Thank you for the nice thought.  I will tell little Freddy that you said Hi, and will tell his parents that you said to use real diapers.   They are doing fine, but the parents are a bit tired of getting up in the middle of the night.  Of course, I haven't figured out any other ways of doing it.

    MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

2. 
   tom77 | Jan 19, 2008 12:53am | #4

   Frosty,
   I have experienced the same problem with at least two different brands. I have tried vigorous buffing but it wasn't effective in removing all of the swirl marks. What did work was to use some 0000 steel wool to lightly rub out the waxed finish after buffing. You can eliminate the swirl marks and replace them with a satin texture.

   Good luck, Tom.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jan 19, 2008 06:01pm | #11

   In most cases, if you end up with swirl marks, it means that too much wax has been applied. Less frequently, it means that you may have waited too long after application to buff out.What I was taught was to apply the wax and almost immediately give it a preliminary wiping with a clean cloth to remove the excess and more evenly distribute the wax. Then let it haze over and then buff.Remember, you can't "build" a wax. One coat is enough.If you have too much wax on now, use mineral spirits and rag to wipe it off and then start over.Howie.........

3. 
   beachfarm | Jan 19, 2008 02:55am | #5

   If you're planning on top-coating with waxes, "restoring" old finishes, or simply using wax as an end in itself, then you should consider purchasing a rotary buffer.

   I use an MVP (that's the brand name) polisher with 10" terry cloth pads purchased new from an auto supply store with a $20 bill. It works as well as any unit.

   Purists consider this heresy, but they're not paying your rent. Swirling issues are eliminated. And, it's useful beyond words for the final "rub-out" of traditional varnish. (In that case I use Watco satin wax as the polishing medium with impressive results.)

   Note: Auto buffers rotate as slow speeds and, as a result, do not build heat. No worries of damage to your primary finish.

   It's the best $20 you'll ever spend...