Replies

1. 
   JimW | Oct 26, 2004 05:20am | #1

   I'm assuming you're saying that the end of the board is splitting? and not the backside of the board is blowing out.  If I'm understanding correctly, the best way is to leave the board long and trim it to length after you have drilled the hole.

   If it is the later, place a sacrificial board behind the board to be drilled, just don't place sacrificial board in the same place every time.  It will support the hole better than nothing, but not as well as a new board.

   Hope you understand what I'm trying to say.

   Jim

   Coventry Woodworking

2. 
   jackplane | Oct 26, 2004 04:42pm | #2

   Clamp scrap stock top and bottom to make a sandwich, then drill. A sharp bit also makes clean holes.

3. 
   JohnWW | Oct 26, 2004 09:32pm | #3

   Are you drilling a hole through the face of the board very close to the end of the board with just a thin web of wood between the edge of the hole and the end face of the board?  The problem is that the thin web of wood left is all end grain and very fragile, any force against it while drilling will cause it to disintegrate.

   If you can't avoid drilling the hole that close to the end, then, as suggested, leaving extra stock beyond the holes when drilling, and cutting the extra length off afterward might work, but the sawing can also damage the fragile web area. 

   Using a drill press, and a gentle feed, with a sharp drill bit with spurs, such as a brad point, or a forstener type bit will minimize the chance of breaking through the end. The best solution would be to change the design and get the holes, or the need for them, away from the end of the board.

   John W.

1. 
   LD | Oct 27, 2004 02:22am | #4

   Thanks for everyone replies.

   I guess I didn't do a good job explaining what I was doing.

   But, John you did get it right.

   I was using a small twist bit in a hand held drill.

   I was drilling holes close to the edge of the back for a small three drawer jewelry box.

   I chose to make the back out of walnut - the same material as the box.  I planed it to 1/4" thick and I needed to drill the screw holes close to the edge (~1/4" from the end) with the back in position on the case.  The case walls are 1/2 " thick, so there wasn't a lot of material to work with.  I also needed to drill the holes at a slight angle to make sure I was getting into the case wall and not slipping down the side.  I tried wetting the wood and I tried taping it.  Of the 8 holes, 2 tore out.  I was wondering about things like the twist bit (if that was the best choice of bit) and or any other procedure that would have prevented the tear out I got.  The tear out was easily repaired, but I would just as soon not have to do that.

   Thanks again to all for your input.

   Dave

1. 
   lwj2 | Oct 28, 2004 03:21am | #5

   I'm assuming (we all know what happens when you assume) you were drilling a fairly small hole.

   I'd try using a drill press, clamping the wood to a backer board and using a brad-point drill bit at about 900 rpm or less. You can then use the drilled board as a template for the rest of the holes in the sides.

   It may help in final assembly if you use beeswax to lube the screws.

   My 2¢.Leon Jester, Roanoke VA

   Q: How do you know when a politician is lying?

   A: His lips are moving.

2. 
   hammer1 | Oct 29, 2004 06:25pm | #6

   With the procedure you describe, is there a reason for using screws instead of brads. You need a small enough fastener to match the job. You may find a 1/16" bit is almost too large. An 18 ga. brad will actually push right through a 1/16" hole. This will be a help if you drill through the back and only slightly into the sides. The shaft of the brad won't stress the edge of the back and the head will pull it tight.

   When screwing things together with common wood screws, the hole in the piece being attached should be large enough that it will allow the shaft to fit through without restriction.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   LD | Oct 29, 2004 08:13pm | #7

   The only reason is that the piece is to be top end and brads just seems so cheap looking that I wanted to use screws.  To me it would be like using nails on a drawer instead of dovetails.

   Dave

1. 
   hammer1 | Oct 30, 2004 02:25am | #8

   You can fill brads for the invisible look or use escutcheon pins if you want it to show. There are also other ways to put on a back without fasteners. I'm not sure screws would say "high end" to me, especially if they cracked or split the work.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match