I don’t know if brad nailers are part of fine woodworking, but . . . I was putting backs on my cabinets and the 2″ brads which came with my new nailer and compressor protruded into the cabinet interior. So, as a guy new to using nailers, I ask:
a) What is the best thing to do when a brad nail mis-directs into the inside of the cabinet? (Unlike nails, you cannot pound them back out!)
b) Is there some guideline for how long a brad to use? e.g., for putting a 1/4″ back on a cabinet, the brad should go so many times as far into the side of the cabinet.
Thanks,
Jim
Replies
Hi Jim ,
Instead of pounding back in , usually I try and pull them further through and out .
The fasteners for putting a back on will depend on material thickness but usually a safe way is to use 3/4" long pins screws or staples , that way even with a 1/4" back and 3/4" back rails you won't go through , usually .
regards dusty
It's usually best to pull the brad all the way through, assuming it doesn't have a large head. The hole is easier to repair without leftover metal in it. If I'm going to use an air nailer on a back I try to use staples where possible. The very small heads on the brads make it too easy for the thin back to pull away from the cabinet, and the back of a cabinet isn't usually a place where you care if the nailheads (or staples) show. Usually I hammer in tacks by hand, alternating the angles.
Jim
Take a close look at the ends of your brads, you will find that they are chisel shaped. To cut down on the grads wanting to "wander" rather than go in straight. Position the nailer, if possible, so that the brads cut across the wood grain rather than part it. They also hold better that way, just like using old cut nails which hold much better than round wire nails.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I found that by grabbing the end sticking out and twisting it with a pair of pliars it usually breaks off inside the wood leaving a very easy repair.
Two inch brads are definitely too long for 1/4" material. I would go with 3/4".
A couple of pointers if I may:
Many thanks! I switched to 1" brad and took your advise and the next two cabinets went perfectly. (I'll use staples next time too as I had to put in quite a few brads to be happy with the hold.)
Jim
I got interrupted during the last post and forgot to mention paying attention to the drive depth on your brads. If you aren't careful, you'll drive the brads almost completely thru 1/4" ply (I've had backs come off and discovered that the brads were <1/8" from going completely thru).
If your nailer doesn't have a depth adjustment, you can lower the air pressure to lessen the drive depth.
Yes, 5/8" long 1/4" crown staples will hold much better than brads on sheet goods.
I use either staples or screws - depending on whether I'll ever need to remove the back.
IME, if you try to remove the nail (backing it out or pulling it through), you'll only make things worser. If you can bust if off below the surface per a prior post, that's probably best. If not, break it off as close as you can to the surface and bury the leftover with a small nailset. Then fix the dimple left by the set.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
jimbell--
I used to use brads to attach 1/4" backs for several years, but invariably the back would work loose, due to moving the cabinet or the stuff inside being pushed against the back. (Not to mention the occasional brad "blowing out".)
Now I make a rabbet in the cabinet sides (about 3/8" to 7/16" wide) to accept the back and attach the back with #6 x 1" or 1 1/4" flathead screws. The back never works loose, and can be easily removed if needed. (And no more brads "blowing out".)
Also, try using 3/8" plywood. It doesn't cost much more, and can really add tremendous strength to the cabinet.
Kreuzie
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