All,
I’m playing around with some So. American Cherry building a small box..8″x11″x2.5″. I resawed the wood to 1/4″ thickness and glued up a couple of panels for the top and bottom….the top has cupped about 1/16″. My plan was to cut the top flush to the outside perimeter of the box, and maybe round over the edge.
I’m wondering what to do about the cup?….would thin breadboard ends do any good?….should I rout the top edge about a 1/16″ to fit into the box?
Looking for suggestions, thanks
Replies
If you have enough stock left, make another panel. Resaw to 3/8" instead of 1/4". Rip the boards into narrower pieces and swap the growth ring orientation on every other strip. If that one warps the same way, you'll still have enough meat left to plane it flat.
If you're stuck with the one you've got, I have a hard time thinking 1/4" thick breadboard ends will do much good, but you might be able to attach some battens to the underside of the top to pull it flat.
Uncle dunc,
The top is actually only two 6" wide pieces glued up....and what I have left will not accomodate another top 3/8" thick. The batten idea, on the other hand has real possibilities. Do the battens need to be 1/4" thick?
I can push the top flat easily, but If I recut the top in a couple of places....so it would be more like four panels that were glued up to final dimensions....that may work better with the battens?
>> Do the battens need to be 1/4" thick?
The thicker the better, assuming batten thickness is in the same dimension as panel thickness. The stiffness of a beam in bending varies as the cube of the thickness, but varies only linearly with the width. Doubling the thickness of a batten will increase its stiffness by a factor of eight, while doubling its width will only double its stiffness. A 1/4" x 1/2" batten placed on edge will be four times as stiff as the same batten laid flat.
Uncle Dunc,
Thanks, that is good to know. Tomorrow I'll get some tiny wood screws and play some more..
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