Hi everyone …
Got an odd situation with my Bosch SCMS. I’ve always noticed it “sounded’ kinda odd when it starts up, has a little vibration but for the most part the cuts are as accurate as I could ask for, saw marks aren’t all that prominent. But ….
Installed a secondary wood fence against which I could clamp a stop block for verious repeat cuts. Plus a few other advantages but the point is …. Put a relatively new Systematic thin kerf carbide tipped cut-off blade with a buzillion teeth. Now, the fence is about 4″ high. I always start the saw and let it get up to speed before making the cut, of course. But with thin stock I’ll often have the blade lowered to just above the material thus now below the top of the added fence. I find that when the saw is started in this position, the blade will wobble and hit the fence then straighten out and run true. I confirmed this by first clamping a piece of scrap onto the saw table, making a through cut then left the blade lowered until it came to a complete stop. Then without raising it, started the saw again. Sure ‘nuf the blade wobbled for what seemed like maybe one or two revolutions before starting to run true.
Could this be simply the result of the stress incurred on the blade when torqued by the motor at startup? I took the blade off, cleaned the arbor flange and washers, tried running the saw without the blade or arbor nut and washers and it just hums …. no vibration whatsoever.
Didn’t have time today to check further but will put a heavier blade on and see if it acts the same. I could feel no play in the motor shaft at all.
Is a blade stabaliser advisable on a SCMS?
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Replies
Dear Dennis,
I do not have a Bosch SCMS, but I do own two Hitachis, one 8 1/2" the other a 10". That being said, I do own a variety of Bosch tools, jigsaw, routers, etc. and have been very pleased with them. I am not a fan of "thin kerf" blades however. The Bosch saw that you own is a proffessional model that has plenty of power, therefore you should be running a standard kerf or thicker blade. If you want an example, try to 45 degree bevel cut a peice of 5/4 x12 maple or oak and see how true your cut is. My guess is that the blade will walk at least a little bit.
In your situation, my guess is that the blade is warping from the tourqe of the initial start up and then flattens out again when the blade reaches full speed. I like Freud blades and on SCMS I use the "industrial " line which is a tad thicker than normal. No vibrations, little deflections and I get nice true cuts. I am a proffessional and use my saw a good 20 - 30 hours a week.
Good Luck,
John
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