Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 13, 2003 12:58am | #1

   Yes, I have solved it, but only with the help of an experienced tech.  In my particular case, on an old Jet contractor's saw, the "stretcher bars" or whatever they are (they run between the front and rear trunnions) were out of parallel, probably from the saw being dropped or otherwise abused.  I've had several experienced machine and WWers tell me that this is extreeeeemly difficult to fix as a novice.  If you have a new saw and their tech can't fix it, I'd demand a new saw.  It is a totally (totally!) unacceptable flaw in the machine.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   johnhardy | Jul 13, 2003 02:13am | #2

   I'll second Forest Girl's suggestion. If this is a "new" saw, demand another one or get your money back and buy a different brand. Or, better yet, put in the extra money and get a cabinet saw.

   John

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 13, 2003 02:47am | #3

   Having a cabinet saw certainly would circumvent this particular problem.  The design of contractor's saws lends itself to getting out of whack this way, although it's not all that common.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   tufenhundel | Jul 13, 2003 04:12am | #4

   Adze:

   I also currently have this problem.  I don't know if there is any deformity in any of the saw's components.  It was a brand new Delta contractor saw.  I suspect, in my case, that the axis of rotation is not parallel with the table top.  That is, the rear of the assembly sits lower than the front.

   So at 90 degs. all is fine, but at 45, the back of the blade moves towards the fence significantly.  I've thought about shiming the front of the trunion assembly, but it always seems such a hassle.

   Yeah, I am waiting for the time to get a cabinet saw.  Hey, does anyone here discuss which is the best cabinet saw to buy?

1. 
   SgianDubh | Jul 13, 2003 04:33am | #5

   "Yeah, I am waiting for the time to get a cabinet saw.  Hey, does anyone here discuss which is the best cabinet saw to buy?"

   Nope---- not usually, ha, ha.. Slainte.<p href="http://r-gjones.laof.home.att.net/&quot; Website               

2. 
   forestgirl | Jul 13, 2003 08:52am | #7

   You saw it "was" a brand new Delta saw.  Is it still brand new?  They really should make it right!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   DavidP52 | Jul 13, 2003 02:56pm | #8

   Uh, well "contractors saw" - - why would you expect a precision machine with one of those? Probably got just what he paind for.

1. 
   Manchild | Jul 13, 2003 03:41pm | #9

   This is an opportunity to become intimately acquainted with your saw. Now get in there and fix it! Just kidding. There's no reason why a contractors saw can't be precision. Think of it like tuning up a plane.

2. 
   forestgirl | Jul 13, 2003 07:09pm | #11

   ""contractors saw" - - why would you expect a precision machine with one of those? Probably got just what he paind for."

   Is there any chance you were saying that tongue-in-cheek and just for got to put the <g> in?  Your comment is complete hogwash otherwise.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   ToolDoc | Jul 13, 2003 08:48pm | #12

   OHOH< FGs on a Roll NOW!!!!!!!!

2. 
   forestgirl | Jul 13, 2003 10:04pm | #14

   Raghhhgrrrrrruff!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   tufenhundel | Jul 14, 2003 08:45am | #15

   Forestgirl:

   I got the saw new when I started woodworking.  But by the time I realized what was wrong, I think it was the combination of elapsed time and the hassle of a return that caused me to do nothing.

   It is a dangerous condition, to be sure.  I just don't do that operation, not with the fence on the right side of the blade (right tilt) anyway.

   I've beefed it up with a 5hp motor so I can rip full depth!  It serves my needs for now.  But of course, I've read every "best cabinet saw" thread here because I know one is in my future.  Yeah, I am just waiting for the next thread, any minute now....

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 14, 2003 08:54am | #16

   Yeah, it's fun reading those threads, isn't it?!  Did you read the magazine review a couple of months ago (by Mehler, I think?) that covered some European saws also?

   BTW, this is what I did with mine:  Called Jet and got the phone number of the "local" Jet-recommended machinery repair guy.  He, of course, could not understand why I wanted to spend the money it would cost for him to travel to the Island and fix the (old, battered) saw.  We settled on my meeting him at one of the lumberyards where he had an appointment that week.  He took the saw home, fixed it, and I drove out and picked it up.  The charge to fix it was $60 (minimum charge), but he had a set of factory-new cast iron wings in his storage unit that he threw in for an extra $30.  Great deal!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   DougF | Jul 14, 2003 07:07pm | #17

   "You beefed up to 5hp" can account for much of the problem when cutting at angles with contractor saws.  The extra weight of the motor exaserbates the force against the motor mount rods forcing the trunions and ultimately the arbor to shift.  The more extreme the angle, the greater the deflection.  It can also cause inexpensive table tops to cup due to the excessive weight.  Food for thought.

   Doug 

1. 
   tufenhundel | Jul 15, 2003 06:13am | #19

   Doug:

   I had this problem before swapping the motor.  BTW, the 5hp is not significantly heavier than the stock 1.5hp.  I know this equates to a cheapie motor.  I've been wanting to build something with the 1.5hp, but I know one of these days, that 5hp is going to let out its smoke.

   Since we all know that anything that plugs into the wall actually runs on smoke, I'll have to keep the 1.5hp on ready reserve.

   Did I mention I am dying to get a cabinet saw :) ?

2. 
   Robbie | Jul 15, 2003 07:03pm | #20

   I would call Delta.  There is a couple year warranty on the Delta saw and they are absolutely super about fixing warranty work.

   You should definitely do this in my opinion.

   BW

3. 
   Mach70 | Jul 17, 2003 03:54am | #24

   Smoke is a wonderful source of energy. Cheap, light and if you're lucky never needs replacing. In my neck of the woods the "experts" charge so much to refill & reseal the smoke ("repair" to all you non-technical types) it's often cheaper to dump the smokeless paperweight & buy new. I have a couple well-used tools that let out just a little smoke with each use. Like Freon you won't miss it til it's all gone. I probably just need a new set of smoke rings but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to get them to stay in place! Oh well.

3. 
   Adze | Jul 15, 2003 03:35am | #18

   Tufenhundel, your explanation sounds right and the Grizzly posting was useful (and confirmed your thoughts).    But i'm going with forestgirl -- it should be made right in the first place.

4. 
   fredsmart48 | Jul 13, 2003 05:12am | #6

   I think Grizzly has a pdf file on how to adjust their saw for both 90° and at 45° it involves shimming the trunnion on the 45° It should be about the same for what ever construction saw.

5. 
   Crunk | Jul 13, 2003 05:09pm | #10

   Yep, I solved that problem - I sold the saw and bought two handsaws, a nice rip and crosscut saw and have never looked back.

   If you know how to use a pencil and a combination square you can rip and crosscut as accurately as any machine.  You won't be able to churn out cheap, plywood based projects by the truckload but you can certainly build fine furniture.

6. 
   patricks13 | Jul 13, 2003 09:19pm | #13

    

   I measured my right tilt 2 year old Unisaw. At 90 degrees vertical measuring the same spot on the blade it measures 0". At 45 degrees it measures .008" in 7" with the front of the blade to the left and the back of the blade to the right. While I would much prefer perfect alignment, at least the front of the blade will do the cutting with the board on the left and the bevel down.

    

   Anyone else measure this accurately on their table saw?

    
7. 
   TEX | Jul 15, 2003 09:52pm | #21

   Ian Kirby's book "The Accurate Table Saw" discusses this problem. Kirby recommends tuning the saw for a 90 degree cut and leaving it that way - never changing the angle. He recommends making jigs for 45 degree and other frequent bevel cuts.

1. 
   NormInFujino | Jul 16, 2003 05:28pm | #22

   Kirby recommends tuning the saw for a 90 degree cut and leaving it that way - never changing the angle.

   Why am I not surprised? If he's talking about U.S. saws, and if he's not exaggerating, it's just one more reason for U.S. consumers to be bent out of shape at the most popular manufacturers for not updating their century-old designs. ". . .and only the stump or fishy part of him remained."

   Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township

1. 
   DavidP52 | Jul 17, 2003 03:22am | #23

   Ah, someone's always knocking American stuff. Funny that there are a lot of fancy, high quality stuff available, but I don't hear about many people buying it. They buy what they can afford, which aint much and they get what they pay for -- not much -- and have to live with the shortcomings..