Replies

1. 
   johnhardy | Feb 15, 2004 03:04am | #1

   How big is the top? Where I'm going is to rebuild it. I can't think of a way to fix the edgebanding that will give you the finished look you want.

   What I'd suggest is to make a new top and to use solid wood for the edging, not iron on veneer. You can make the solid wood edging yourself, and if you are worried about a strong glue joint, you can make the edging with a tongue that slips into a groove you put into the plywood. A cross section of the edging would look like a "T".

   Be careful in trimming the edging after glue-up so that you don't damage the veneer on the plywood. It's super thin. I would suggest some sort of jig which would support your router and you could use a bearing bit to trim the edging. A light sanding after that would give you a professional look.

   John

1. 
   dovetail3 | Feb 15, 2004 03:28am | #2

   John:

   Thanks for your   suggestion. Are problems with iron on veneer

   edges common? It seems like a common practice. I didn't make

   my own solid veneer because the top is curved and the veneer would have

   to have been extremely thin to bend enough.

   Ken

1. 
   gecko | Feb 15, 2004 06:42am | #3

   I used to work in a cabinet shop that seemed to go through MILES of edge banding. what you describe is common if the edgebanding (tape) is not fully adhered. before I suggest any fixes for your current problem, I should make it clear that when using wood tape its very important to go very slowly to make sure the glue melts properly. also, i use a scrap piece of wood to press the hot tape into place. I'm not sure of any manufacturer names, but the edge tape sold at the home depot and other big box stores is absolute crap! it seems no matter what you do to try to avoid this it still seems a problem. your best bet is to call up a plywood manufacturer or commercial plywood distributor and order it (be sure to order pre-glued)

   as far as fixing your current problem - I would remove it with an iron the same way you attached it and start again. it might take a little while but it beats redoing the whole top.

   Custom Cabinetry and Furniture

   http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com

    

1. 
   Calendyr | Feb 15, 2004 08:05am | #4

   I did not think I would be giving advice here since I am a begginner but I just read last night about the various glues. So contact cement was strongly suggested against because it degrades at the contact of air and since wood breathes, especially extremelly thin veneer, it is only a matter of time before the glue degrades to the point of the bond breaking.

   Maybe some people here could tell you more (or something else) but that is what I read. Hope it helps. I will let the pro give the rest of the advices now ;)

2. 
   johnhardy | Feb 15, 2004 09:23am | #5

   Didn't realize your top was curved.

   Another poster suggested using the iron to remove the current tape. That's most assuredly work, but it's unclear to me how you'd get new tape on and looking professional now that the top is finished. It wouldn't hurt to try, though.

   If you decide to make a new top, you can cut your own veneer and get a really tight radius. If what you cut won't bend easily enough, use water to make it more pliable and heat (hair dryer) to set a curve in it. You'd be amazed at the curve you can get. I made some 1/4 inch maple shoe molding and bent it using this method and got a 12 inch radius bend in it very quickly. It kept the bend after the wood dried.

   John

1. 
   dovetail3 | Feb 16, 2004 01:51am | #6

   John:

   Seems as though I had thought about wetting the wood and somehow

   abandoned the idea. How wet should I get the wood is I make it about

   1/8" thick? Do I soak in a tub of water? and do I clamp to the curve while it's wet and then use the dryer? Then wait until it drys and glue with yellow glue and clamps?Or would contact cement be all right to use.

   Your suggestion may help a lot next time I do this

   Thanks so much

   Ken

1. 
   johnhardy | Feb 16, 2004 04:17am | #7

   What I'd do is soak it in a tub for a few minutes. Use blue tape to protect the plywood (so it doesn't absorb water), and put the wet "veneer" on the curve and clamp it. Then use the dryer to dry the veneer. It may take awhile, but as long as the wood is clamped it should take the curved shape and be fine. Just leave the clamps on the veneer for a day or three.

   John

2. 
   dovetail3 | Feb 16, 2004 06:49pm | #9

   John:

   If only I had your advice before I got into this mess!

   I'm grateful ....Thanks

   Ken

2. 
   USANigel | Feb 16, 2004 08:44am | #8

   I would suggest you remove the edge banding with an iron if you can get in the corners with it. If you have some very tight corners to go round (less than 6" rad.) you can use a heat gun to melt the glue as you apply it to the edges. Just becareful not to over heat the finished plywood and keep the edgeing tight in. Then use a file or very carefully setup router to remove the excess.