Hi All,
I can not find nor figure out a way to easily get the “formica” sub fences off the T-square. One got dinged up, the working side oif course, and I want to switch them if possible.
Any help appreciatted.
W
Hi All,
I can not find nor figure out a way to easily get the “formica” sub fences off the T-square. One got dinged up, the working side oif course, and I want to switch them if possible.
Any help appreciatted.
W
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialGet instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building!
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.
Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
Why not laminate over it, and adjust the fence guage as needed?
Whatrix,
I have a Bies clone which is easy to remove the sides...however, when I removed one side I noticed all kinds of tape to ensure the straightness/flatness of the side....I quickly and carefully screwed it back in place. Perhaps the real thing does not have the tape to adjust the surface...
You don't want to switch them. Take an iron and heat the contact cement which will remove the laminate so you can get at the screws. My fence is still good but if I ever replace the face it will be screwed on right through the laminate.
When I bought my cabinet saw the formica faces on the Biesmeier fence were in an absolute mess; the saw was from a school woodworking shop ! I bought a retrofit kit from Biesmeier which came with instructions on how to mount the new faces and plastic beading. This is how I actually fitted the face pieces.
1) remove the face pieces and align the nearside face of the metal tube to be parallel to the table slot (note: the tube may not be absolutely straight so focus on the ends)
2) temporarily screw the wood face pieces on to the tube and measure the distance from the slot along its length using a clock gauge (an inexpensive one is available for about $25)
3) using sticky tape between the metal tube and the inside face shim the face piece until it is parallel (along its full length) to the table slot and vertical to the saw table surface.
4) glue on the formica and attach the plastic bead into the slots on the top, front and rear edges of the face piece.
5) move the fence to the other side of the blade and repeat only steps 2,3 and 4 for the second face.
This should work for you. There is no need to buy the retrofit kit which is quite expensive. You can use parts you make/buy locally. However be patient; it is worth doing a very thorough job because you will have to live with the result!
davidh
Edited 10/18/2004 5:18 pm ET by davidh
If it is your working side, why not just use bondo to fix it? You know it'll happen again. It'll save you alot of work & time. If you're worried about the color, check out Kampell seamfil, they probably have a color to match.
A couple of things you can try to get the HPL (formica) off is a heat gun or lacquer thinner squirted underneath. If you use the lacquer thinner, make sure you have adequate ventillation and personal protection.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled