Some of my bits are getting old and dull. I am curious if there are better brands and/or types of bits I should look for and should I buy individual bits or a set?
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Replies
Why not just sharpen the dull bits?
Don
This is a question that has come up ... many times.
In the past, I sharpened on the side of the wheel with good results. I bought a "Drill Doctor" on ebay for a song and I just can't believe how easy it is to restore dull blades.
Its just so easy to restore worn bits, maybe a blog on sharpening bits would be helpful. Maybe??
Additionally, I have been doing a little "case hardening" of my bits after I grind them to get a tougher edge. Good results.
Seems like a waste to give up on the bits at the first sign of wear.
dan
I too use a Drill Doctor and back in the old days I also sharpened bits manually on a grinder but most of those bits ran 1-1/8"+ in diameter.
For fine woodworking, you can't beat a full set of brad-point bits. You could easily buy the bits one at a time or the most common sizes, but I find the full index of bits up to 1/2" very handy.
Of course, you can sharpen twist bits with a sharpener like the Drill Doctor, but sharpening brad points is a real trick.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
(soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Coming from the metal worker end of things the new sets with many bits of the same size sure looks good to me. That is what I have but I don't have one box of many; I have many indexes. It is nice to be able to just keep going if one gets dull, chipped or broken.
I like the Drill Doctor so I second that suggestion.
For some of the wood worker's bits you will just need to file or diamond hone by hand. The cheep ones get hot because they aren't ground all that precisely. There is a fairly recent bit test on the FWW articles if you look it up.
Whether to get full sets or individuals is a personal choice. I do a lot of different things so I need all the sizes : letter, number, inch, metric.
The Forstner's I buy individually.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 3/4/2009 3:18 am by roc
FWW had a drill bit test - the best set was reasonably priced. But I couldn't find the article on the web site and I'm too lazy to look in the magazines. Maybe someone else remembers?
Does Drill Doctor work for hardened or cobalt or titanium bits?
The Wood Loon
Acton, MA
Thank you for all that responded. I have borrowed a friends drill doctor to try out. I may think about getting some brad point bits. But is there a brand or type of metal better than another.
Thanks
Michael
I don't believe a Drill DR can sharpen anything but taper point drills. If they can do brad points, someone please correct me. I could be in the market if that's the case. I mostly use brad points and Forestners.Greg
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The drill bit test (brad-points only) is here:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=24964
http://www.eagleamerica.com has a new line of brad points that, IMHO, are the best I've ever seen and could easily be compaired to the old Cleveland Twist for quality.
They are HSS, razor sharp and not the typical so-so grind. The pictures don't do them justice. http://eagleamerica.com/brad-point-drill-bits/p/302-0012/
They are also made in Montana, USA.
Warning!! Do not confuse these with the imported $19.95 Seven piece set, there is no comparison.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 3/9/2009 10:55 am ET by BruceS
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