This is a follow-up to my earlier post. You folks are dangerous to talk to. Most of the advice that I received was to get the best router possible and secondarily, the best lift possible. Most responses and earlier posts single out the PC 7518 so that is what I am contemplating getting (the Milwaukee 3.5 hp looks good too but I worry about the lift mechanism failing in time. the PC seems time tested).
So my final questions are: How necessary is a lift to accompany the PC 7518? Is it a pain to remove it to change bits? If so, do bent wrenches and/or collet extensions solve this problem adequately or is a lift really desirable? As a weekend woodworker I feel that a lift may be a bit of an unnecessary luxury however, I’d rather not have regrets in the future so maybe it’s time to splurge on a decent lift.
Thanks again,
Lyptus
Replies
Lyptus,
I have a Porter+Cable 7518 in my router table that I have been running like a horse for over three years. I got it reconditioned at a woodworking show. I've really tested this thing, and it is tough! Never fails, smooth speed adjustments.
As far as a lift goes, my opinion is that it is worth it. I use the Precision Router Lift from Woodpecker, and it is a great partner to the 7518. You get great precision, and above-the-table bit changes, and it's really sturdy.
If you search in the archives for Precision Router Lift under my name, you'll see some extensive reviews!
Edited 10/17/2005 3:57 pm ET by MatthewSchenker
Lyptus,
I don't have a lift on my Norm style router table with a #621 router. I'm very suspicious of my setup. I mean, I've got trunnions in the cabinet saw to help support the blade, smaller trunnions on the bandsaw, etc....but on the router table nothing..where vibration has a huge impact? So far so good but....
Lyptus,
Same recommendation as on your other post. Get the Hitachi M12V. It's a workhorse and the price is right.
Regards,
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Mensa Member
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Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
How necessary is the lift? I guess it depends. I did not have to have one, but I wanted to be able to easily and accurately raise and lower the bit, and a lift does that. It can be done with out one, just more time consuming and if fine adjustments is not required by you, and it does not matter. As far as the changing of bits, I purchased a quick chuck. It allows for the change of a bit with just a twist of an allen wrench. I got it from woodpeckers website, but others sell it as well. They have a new one there called the extreme extension, that you could look at as well. It supports quarter inch bit shafts where the quick chuck does not. I can change a bit in a snap. I don't think you will be disappointed with the PC7518. The lift is not required, but I would not want to go away from mine. Just M2CW. Take care.
http://www.woodpeck.com/quickchuck.html
or the new
http://www.woodpeck.com/xtremextension.html
Edited 10/17/2005 4:47 pm ET by bones
Unlimited resources, back acting up?
Then maybe this. A Lift and a 7518 in a insert-less router table.
More one the router table router selection? See the selection link.
I like the design, and find the reasoning on the web site persuasive. What lift is that?
-robert
System made for a wealthy client; I do not use the BenchDog, the lift in the picture.
The table in your photograph uses a PC 7518 and the lift mechanism, but not the plate, from Benchdog?
John W.
Cast iron Benchdog lift is bolted to the underside of the top, stiffening the top instead of weakening it, a mending plate sandwhich that will not deflect.
Moreover, the top has no interruptions.
Routers/Tables
All you guys talking about big routers in tables and adding a lift. What does the cost work out to- $325 for the router $300 for a lift, table, legs, etc. Take a look at the Jet 1.5hp shaper. Takes 1/2, 1/4 router bits in special collets, and 1/2 and 3/4 bore shaper cutters. And its on special for $750 everywhere.
I know - its not portable. Norms Style table is? I am 6'5" and 270 Lbs. and I wont run a big router like that freehand without one helluva jig, look at the jet, you will have all the benefits of a big router table and have a shaper, and possibly even save some $$$$$.
Edited 10/21/2005 7:49 pm ET by try5077
Main complaint I've seen regarding using a shaper as a router is that its RPMs are low for smaller bits that want to spin fast.
But if you want to raise panels etc. no router can compete with a shaper.
Most small fast bit that I use see handheld use anyway. If you rout a lot of 1/8" dadoes w/ your table that could be a drawback, but do french table edge and you'll never notice the difference.
I like router tables, but for me it supplements my router arsenal, not replaces it. I still hand rout a lot. And sometimes I still use an edge guide.And don't forget the laminate trimmer for small fast spinning bits...
Edited 10/21/2005 7:49 pm ET by try5077
I am 6'5" and 270 Lbs... Dang then I guess there is no point in me arguing with you then.. So Ya' made a good point there..
I have the 7518 mounted directly in my table. No lift. I do not have to remove the router to change bits as you can "twist" it up high enough to get to them from above.
Most of the advice that I received was to get the best router possible and secondarily, the best lift possible.
Good advice in general... For any tool.. If you WILL USE it then get the best you can...
I however usually get the cheapest and save money for THAT really expensive thing I want!..
Like I have stated in here many times.. I have several RYOBI and PC routers.. PC cost about twice as much and hardly any better.. My 2 cents... PC plunge is a bit better though.. That is not to say I think the PC is bad.. Just that I can get two routers for the price of one.. I use my routers almost every day..
One thing about the RYOBI though is NOBODY makes a router table plate to fit it! Well, I suppose someplace out there.. Lee Valley router plate will take almost anything I guess?
Rockler tables not to bad for the price..
Router: There's a reason why these routers (PC 7518) cost more than the rest - smooth start, smooth control, bottomless power and bulletproof construction. By far, the best router for any money.
Lift Mechanism: As a subscriber to the "fewer moving parts" school, I've never owned a lift mechanism. I say delay the lift purchase and resort to old school scrap sampling. (Run a piece of Poplar. Adjust your bit. Fine tune. Etc.) If you find that method is not for you, THEN purchase the lift.
Changing Bits: For as long as man has worked wood with machinery, changing bits (and blades, and pulleys, and wheels, and belts) has always been a pain. And it always will be. That's just part of the deal. You can ease that pain with organized work flow. Schedule your projects so that they require as few *bit* changes as possible.
Regards.
beachfarm,
You wrote this:
"Lift Mechanism: As a subscriber to the "fewer moving parts" school, I've never owned a lift mechanism. I say delay the lift purchase and resort to old school scrap sampling. (Run a piece of Poplar. Adjust your bit. Fine tune. Etc.) If you find that method is not for you, THEN purchase the lift."That's definitely true. But once you start using a lift, you can't go back. I was working at my stepfather's house last week on his router table, which does not have a lift. I laughed, because until then I didn't realize how much I got used to the lift!
Hi Lyptus,
I have a PC 7518 mounted in a WoodPeckers router table with an aluminum insert, the Woodpeckers inserts have a collar which locks into the main part of the insert plate, when the collar is removed the opening is on the order of 3 inches. The large opening and two WoodPeckers bent wrenches make bit or collet changes pretty easy.
A lift with this arrangement seems like a nice to have, but if I was inclined to purchase a router lift, I think that I would buy the Big Milwaukee router, since it has a built in lift
Best of luck
Have a dewalt 625 in my router table and have been pleased with it. I like the soft start feature. Have a fine ajustment knob on it and it has worked well.
Troy
I had a 625 in mine until the variable speed quit working. I have to replace the triggers/variable speed stuff in every Dewalt tool I own for some reason.
Have had no problems with the dewalt routers switch but have had to dis assemble the switch on my dewalt random orbit sander serveral times to clean the dust out.
I have the Milwaukee; no lift needed. It's built as least as solidly as the PC.
I guess it all depends on what you want to spend your time doing. I am a weekender (and nighter) as well. While I am still building skills, I try to get the best stuff I can afford. It's also a little different for hobbyists. Pros have to account for every dime, and have to see a return for everything they spend. As a hobbyist, although I am not wealthy, I do have more money than time, and can afford to "overspend" on my hobby. But the real issue is time. Between my regular job and two young (very young) children, my shop time is very limited. And I certainly do not want to spend most of it screwing around with my equipment. Take the router out of the table to change the bit? Do that a couple of times, and throw in a couple of practice runs, and I may have just burned up my shop time for the night. I have the PC 7518 that never leaves the table (Jessem w/Master Fence and Lift). I have been very happy with the setup, can change bits above the table in about 10 seconds, adjust the depth, cut and adjust again within seconds. Personally, I would (and do) think of it as a matter of time. A lift for me saves me a ton of time, and allows me to do a lot more woodworking.
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