I am making a very small cabinet that will have a recess on top for a kitchen appliance –its basically a low box with a drawer that my espresso grinder will sit atop.
Anyhow figure that the top is basically 10″ wide x 16″ deep.
the top also need to have a large oddly shaped (its like two circles one partially overlapping the other) recess in the top (about 1/4″ deep) for the grinder to sit into so it wont move around.
Whats the best way to route out this area? I was planning on making a pattern template out of hardboard as a router guide for the outside edge and then routing the interior by eye — but I’m worried that as I remove material the router baseplate will have less and less wood to reference against.
Is there a “best pracice” for doing this?
Replies
Make the template, but saw out the largest part with a sabersaw.Then clean up the cut with a pattern bit.
mike
I'm not worried about making the *template* I figured I would use a sabre saw and then clean it up with a sander. What I am worried about is routing the actual recess interior.
For those applications I mount a simple 12" X 12" acrylic base.
Make it on the router table. clamp some stop blocks, cut recess with flat bottom bit, move blocks out and rout edge with a core box sand to finish.
How big is the recess?
7.5" wide by 13.5" long.as I said though, the recess is essentially 2 connected circles - so I dont really think I could do it upside down on a table with stop blocks.
Opps forgot about the off sets. Have you thought about making a sled for your router?
Is there a local sign maker about with a sign carving machine?
A local luthier gave me a demo on his Marlin Carving Machine, Made by Terrco inc. Waterstown SD.
They are real neat and not that much cash. (Well given perspective)I am thinking of buying one and make signs. Post a pic once you get it done.
Frank,
I was faced with much the same problem recently, making the recess for a router plate.
I first drilled a hole in the center to establish the depth and then outlined/routed the area to be excavated using straight edges - in your case it would be a template. Regarding the template, I would make that so it outlines the excavation area and rout that first - mebbe 1/4" straight bit.
I started in the middle from the drilled hole and worked my way out to the previously outlined/routed edges so I'm mostly routing toward the waste. I did this in sections as I routed, again working towards the waste. This allowed me to keep most of the base on ground that hadn't been routed yet and watch that I didin't rout myself into a corner. :-)
Not sure if this is best practice but worked for me,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Without knowing your exact pattern, I can think of 2 options:
Route the recess in such a way as to use as much of the wood that will be removed as a support for the router before it is actually removed. This likely means starting at the center of your pattern and routing to the outside boundaries.
Make a sled that will reference the router off the tabletop and not off the board being routed.
Greg
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Exo 35:30-35
Bigfrank,
There is an article in last month's FWW about the procedure you're asking about. If I recall correctly, you remove as much material as possible with a forstner bit, then clean up with a router with a sled. The sled has to be long enough to reference off of the good wood.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/subscription/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=32267
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