Hello, I learnt sharpening all by myself. Nobody taught me except few books and info I could find on internet. Anyway the results I obtained were pretty good, in fact I could get chisels so sharp that I could cut my hairs. A while ago I went to a professional sharpener just for comparing. I did not find a big difference in terms of sharpeness, but I have the impression that the blade he sharpened lasted much longer. How is this possible? What makes a blade stay sharp longer? The same applies to card scrapers. The ones that I sharpen last just few strokes.
Thanks Enrico
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Replies
HI Enrico,
It's mainly the bevel angle being honed onto the blade.
The 'pointier' the tip (or, shallower the grind angle,) the shorter the edge lasts.
Ideally, for timber, you want a blade honed at about 30 degrees or so.
If it wears out too soon, regrind/rehone at a steeper angle until it survives OK. The lifetime of the edge depends upon the wood as much as the user.
Cheers,
eddie
Ideally, for timber, you want a blade honed at about 30 degrees or so.What about a stick? About 2" or less in thickness? Not a timber in the way I think! Just pullin' your chain a bit!
It may be something as subtle as honing front to back. That should have the effect you describe- i.e. both edge will seem sharp, but the edge honed front to back should hold up better, all things being equal. Otherwise, the edge that held up better may have been honed a bit finer.
I recommend Leonard Lee's book "Sharpening".
Adam
Enrico,
How do you test for sharpness?
One reason for a blade not holding an edge as long could be that you are not removing the wire edge fully, whilst the pro sharpener has been careful about that. Some people just go through the motions of sharpening or honing, slap blade back in plane and hit the wood- if it makes a nice shaving plane is said to be sharp.....
If you turn too big a burr on a scraper it can fold back....Philip Marcou
Edited 10/22/2007 5:03 am by philip
If you turn too big a burr on a scraper it can fold back....
tell me about it.. damn things are a pain in the.... backslide...
I dinna work anything gnarly enough for long enough to get enough practice with the things to get any good at it... donno if that's a good thing or not...Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Hi Enrico
I’m very much like your self all that I have learned was the same way.
So with the tools in the shop building up I decided to get a Tormek sharpener.
I’ve spent the equivalent of days playing with Diamond stones, Ceramic stones and also this Tormek.
The Tormek is really great. I can now sharpen a blade for a little Block plane on that machine and take a shaving from pine end grain that’s to die for; you can read through it. This type of shaving I’ve only seen on T.V and for me to be able to do that feels GOOOOD! It’s one of the few things down the shop I can do well.
That kind of sharpness is something I still can’t reach sharpening by hand.
Glynn
Mind you saying that I’ve just posted about the jointer blade jig (it’s slooooow).
Edited 10/23/2007 1:12 pm ET by Guy Forks
about the jointer blade jig (it’s slooooow).Just a thought.. I have a Tormex and obviously I sharpen jointers blade as little as possible!Do you have the Stone Grader? (SP-650).. Use the grader (course side)to roughen up the wheel stone. Grind your blades.Use the grader (fine side)to 'finish' up the wheel stone. Grind your blades.Now.. How to be sure you are holding the grader flat???
Dear Will
Yea I do have the grader.
The thing is the grader only brings the stone back so far and even after truing the stone it seems to take very little time to glaze over. I did read the glazing is more pronounced when sharpening the jointer blades due to the lower pressure being applied to the blade. This really becomes annoying when you’re trying to take quite deep dings out of the blade so much so I have resorted to taking the blade to my only other grinder which is more suited to taking chunks out of scrap steel to try to get the dings down then heading for the Tormek but it aint pretty.
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Glynn
I'll just comment on the card scrapers. Possibly you are using too much pressure when using a burnisher. The rolled edge is too great and therefore weak.Start over and try this method.
Drawfile a new square edge.Make sure you keep the file horizontal to the scraper .You could lay the file on a bench and move the scraper on it with a wood block along side to keep it square.This works for rookies who tend to file out of square.Then hone square with your stone. Usually 4 or 5 times back and forth will do.
Next lay the scraper on the bench over hanging about an 1/8".Put a drop of light oil on the burnisher.Place burnisher flat on the scraper,pull towards you,push away.Do this 4 complete times.Use firm but not heavy pressure( about enough pressure to spread cold butter on a roll).
Turn card upside down and repeat.
Now take the burnisher and hold it vertically with the handle below the bench.Tilt the burnisher in at the top very slightly,maybe 5° or so.Pull,then push, while tilted exactly the same as you used the burnisher on the flat.4 complete times,firm but light pressure( cold butter thing).
Flip it over and repeat.Do all four sides.
You will find that it takes as long to read this as to do it,once you get familiar.
After the initial sharpening, just skip the drawfiling and honing, burnish flat then vertically .Repeat the entire process,drawfiling etc only when needed.
You should fine shavings you can see thru,not dust.Try the scraper at different angles,pushing or pulling.Pushing the scraper works best for me.You can bend the scraper by pushing with both thumbs while holding it at the edges.You'll get an agressive cut this way.
mike
I want to thank all of you for your nice suggestions. Mike, I will try what you said on the scraper sharpening. I would love to have a Tormek but for now is too expensive and after all I don't have space for it. Perhaps in the future. Who knows? For the time being I will have to do with regular stones.
Thanks Enrico
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