Replies

1. 
   desertrat | Jul 10, 2003 09:12pm | #1

   You don't mention what you used as a finish, but if you coat more than once with most anything except oil, you are going to get a smooth finish.  I assume you mean that you want to achieve an open grain finish.  Even oil will finish and fill a bit.

   Pine probably wasn't your best choice if you want an open grain finish.  Oak or mahogany with a more open grain would have been a better choice.

   You were right to do the coat/stain/coat type finish to eliminate the blotchies.  Does that answer your question?

   Dick

1. 
   sarico | Jul 10, 2003 09:30pm | #2

   Thanks! I have to check what type of finish I used, but it was the standard home depot water based finish (comes in a yellow/brown/black can).

   You said I was right to do the coat/stain/coat thing? But it looks way too shiny to be rustic. Is there a way to do that without getting a shiny result?

   It sounds like you are saying that my other choice is to do multiple coats of the stain without any clear finish? Is there a way to get a better quality result with just the stain? It sounds like you suggest changing the wood. What about using a different type of stain?

   Thanks for your help, I thought this would be simple but this is really hard!

   -Sari

1. 
   desertrat | Jul 10, 2003 09:47pm | #3

   For most of my furniture finishes, I will use a shellac and wax finish, but this usually will produce the smooth filled grain finish.

   If you were to use an oil finish like Min-Wax, you could just use the oil stain, but I would still use a wash coat of something like shellac before I put on the oil.  You could use a 0000 steel wool/artifical steel wool and rub down the finish that you have applied, this will give you a flatter looking finish (I think this is what you're looking for), or you could put on something like BriWax or Bees wax.  These will knock down the shine.  You could also have used a satin finish instead of the apparently gloss finish that you have used.

   Am I making sense?

2. 
   desertrat | Jul 10, 2003 11:24pm | #4

   Shellac will spoil you, it dries fast and sands easily.

   Normally it comes in a 3# pound cut, that is 3# of shellac dissolved in a gallon of alcohol.  To create a wash coat, thin it 2 to 1.  This makes a pretty thin mix, and will have a tendancy to run if you're not careful, but it really drys fast (1 hour to sanding in normal conditions).  Sand lightly and then stain, let the stain dry overnight and then wash coat again, lightly sand and then coat at full strength, sand and recoat at full strength, then sand lightly and two coats of wax.  Makes a great finish for everything except bar tops.  The shellac isn't impervious to alcohol, since this is its thinner medium.

   I like to use the 1/4" thick foam sanding pads, the fine and superfine work really well and they seem to last forever if you keep them clean.

1. 
   sarico | Jul 10, 2003 11:40pm | #5

   Thanks! I was using clear finish, but I'll try the shellack. Wow! That is a lot of steps!

   -Sari

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 11, 2003 03:06am | #7

   Sarico, you've gotten some good advice here, I'll try to add a little.  First of all, if you want to learn about shellac, here's a link to Jeff Jewitt's on-line article about shellac.  It's a great overview and provides lots of info, so grab a snack or somethin' and take a look:http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/shellac.htm

   As Beans mentioned above, gel stain is another option.  Gel stain is specifically designed to help even out the stain on woods that tend to be blotchy (pine, cherry, alder to name a few).  You can washcoat before you use a gel stain, but it's not always necessary and it tends to lighten the stain quite a bit.  I have had excellent results on Alder with gel stain only.

   Sometimes, when you washcoat with shellac, you need to use a dewaxed shellac -- depends on what type of other finishing products you're using on top of it.  If you need dewaxed shellac, it's available as Zinnser SealCoat.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   sarico | Jul 11, 2003 03:14am | #9

   Thanks! I guess I have a lot to learn. The gel stain thing is really interesting. I'll read the shellac article too. 

   Thanks!

   -Sari

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 11, 2003 06:24am | #10

   "I guess I have a lot to learn. "  Don't we all!  (well, most of us anyway, sorry Richard!)  Finishing is a special challenge, and a step I've always dreaded, until recently!  Take a look at this thread from May:http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=12366.1

   Good luck with your pine!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   desertrat | Jul 15, 2003 12:52am | #11

   My self included.  Always something to learn.

3. 
   ron61 | Jul 11, 2003 12:43am | #6

   try a gel stain or a pre stain

4. 
   forestgirl | Jul 11, 2003 03:09am | #8

   PS:  Here's an article on "rubbing out" finishes (to adjust the glossiness):
   http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/rubbingout.htm

   Re: Briwax...not a good idea on a new finish.  Briwax is designed for well-cured finishes.  The solvent in it can really mess up a new finish.
   CORRECTION:  Unless you're sure to get Briwax2000, which does not have toluene in it.  Just found out about that!

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   
   

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   Edited 7/10/2003 8:12:09 PM ET by forestgirl