I have been asked by my only customer to build a bed so I’m looking for plans (I have no design talent). It has to be pretty elegant and classic, but I’m also hoping to incorporate shelves at the headboard to hold books etc. Any ideas?
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Replies
A while back in AWW they had an elegant design for a sleigh bed. I am currently cutting some cherry to dry to make this bed. It doesn't have a book case or any other feature except being elegant. If you would like I can scan what I have and send it to you. I am months off from building it as I have to dry the Cherry first so I can't relay any experience yet.
Tony
I'll check their site. Thanks.
markroderick,
There is a book out there "Beds" I think by Taunton Press. Try a search on there web site.
ASK
Good idea. I checked the internet but didn't find anything. Maybe Taunton will work better.
Mark...
I don't want to cost Taunton a sale here... but I bought the book just before starting the bed I'm building... it's fine for an education in the basics... but for inspiration it's a bit on the limited side. I ended up running search after search for woodworking plans, trawling through literally thousands of links before comeing across something I thought I could work with... I ran the basic plans past the end recipients, and while her initial reaction was favourable, that rapidly changes when her partner exclaimed that it'd be the perfect design for using handcuffs.. She then went through 40 shades of red before vetoing any design with spindles in either the head or footboard...Ever take on a job and end up wanting to strangle the client.???Suffice to say I've managed to find a compromise.. no slats, construction methods that I've either managed already or can learn (given enough help/advise from the regs here), and enough meat in the rails for him to screw some eye bolts if desired...The plans I ended up buying to build the project have served as a guide only, european matress sizes being somewhat different to those in the US... but it was usefull to have on hand.
Can't recall finding any plans with built in bookcases though...Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Thanks. I just ordered the Taunton book, which I hope will at least inspire some thoughts. I've looked through a few dozen internet links and haven't found anything useful, just the same designs over and over. I think I'm going to have to come across one somewhere and say "That's it!"
Mark.. don't be afraid to experement... I ended up by back engineering everything, working from the matress dimensions, outwards. Adjusted the rail lengths to suit, changed their heights to compensate for the lack of box springs, incorporated wedged through tennons rather than bed brackets for knock down assembly and switched the slats for raised panels in both the head and (when I eventually get back into the shop) footboard. I've done all this working with nothing more than post it notes and a tape measure, simply trying to keep the proportions of the origonal. Part of the spec was to have the rails high enough to allow under-bed storage of some sort; other than that I've had pretty much free reign. It's been fun and educational too; never thought I'd see the day I'd need to work with Youngs Modulus again... how strong do ya make the slats in a newly-wed's bed..????Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
I'm sure I'll experiment and, like you, I'll start with the size of the mattress and how far off the floor I want to me and go from there. But I'm terrible with design - I can hardly draw a stick figure - so I need to get the basic design elsewhere.
I figure I'll hold the center of the bed with 2x8 joists and a couple 4x4 posts. Ha ha.
Well, I got the Taunton book on beds and it very disappointing. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but this doesn't get me too far.
Mark...
I have to admit, my initial reaction was similar. But I stuck with it; each project has a slightly different approach and between them they cover most of the major techniques in basic bed design / construction. I ended up taking a little from a few projects, adapting the techniques to suit my own plans.Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Mark,
Somehow the concept of "pretty and elegant" does not seem congruent with headboard book shelves. I would be interested in how you reconcile these parameters.
Doug
I'm going to be interested myself. I agree that they seem somewhat inconsistent.
Personally, I don't care for the bookcase headboard design, but that's not my call. I attached photos of a bed I designed and built last year. It incorporates a lot of underbed storage using just about all of the available space, including five drawers that are about 24"w x 24"d x 11"h plus two magazine storage drawers on each side of the foot of the bed. I used 1/2" prefinished maple plywood for all of the corebox assembly and 3/4" prefinished maple plywood for the platform segments. All of the visible parts are cherry and walnut. The headboard has maple burl veneer panels and incorporates a rope light behind for "mood lighting".
Bill Arnold
B&B Woodworking
Edited 6/27/2004 5:26 am ET by BArnold
You built a bed like that for a cat?
Just kidding, of course. It's a beautiful piece of work with the curved base and headboard.
I like your drawers underneath and think I'll incorporate something like them, because we can never have enough storage. It looks as if they're incorporated into the bed frame itself rather than rolling on the floor. Is that right?
I personally agree with you that bookshelves at the head will detract from the elegance. At the same time, however, right now I have books and magazines piled on the bedside table and the floor beneath. So I'm thinking that some shelves with a sliding door would be pretty functional. I also want to have bright lights for reading, but I can wire them into the wall.
Thanks for the pictures and the ideas.
Bubba is a typical cat -- they think everything belongs to them! <grin>
Glad you like the design. Some parts were a bit challenging, but I got through it (with a lot of encouragement from my wife). The fluted, radius corners at the foot are built up from ten, 1-1/8" wide sticks of cherry -- eight of them fluted; the two outer sections plain -- segmenting this way made it simpler by fluting prior to glue-up.
The drawers are on full-extension slides and operate very smoothly. There is a toe-kick that is about 4"h x 3"d that doesn't show too well in the pictures.
Also, the platform covers on the sections of the carcase adjacent to the headboard are loose, allowing access to those areas for storage by moving the mattress back a bit.
Bill Arnold
B&B Woodworking
Edited 6/27/2004 1:53 pm ET by BArnold
Mark, I described the design process and construction of a bed in Woodwork, the October and December issues.
It might give you some pointers on those elements if you have or can get hold of copies.
They don't incorporate under-bed storage, but the article might give you something to base your design on. This is what they looked like complete. Slainte. View Image View Image
RJFurniture
You da man. Beautiful work. I just subscribed to Woodwork, so I'll contact them for the back issues.
I missed to say which year Mark-- October and December 2002.
I have the original text on my hard drive, including images, but in two documents of about 1.75 MB and 1.25 MB each they'd take forever to send from my dial up end, and might get bounced by my server. I could try and send them if Woodwork can't supply, and if I have nothing else to do but pick fluff out of my navel for half an hour or so, ha, ha, ha. Slainte.
RJFurniture
Edited 6/28/2004 3:53 pm ET by Sgian Dubh
Bill,
I really like the bed frame with the rounded corners . What construction/joinery techniques did you employ to provide sufficient rigidity for the frame sides and end pieces? Could you use this technique on a bed without a platform base?
Doug
Doug,
The radius corners are made in segments -- check the photos below. Width of each segment is about 1-1/8" and thickness is 1-1/2" -- overall height of my finished assembly is 19-1/4". Since the segments align long grain to long grain, I just glued and clamped -- no mechanical joinery. I glued them in pairs and let each pairing cure. Then glued pairs to pairs, etc., until the entire assembly was finally joined. The cap was cut from a solid slab of black walnut and glued to the cherry assembly. I also added a bottom molding (1/2") of walnut later. The finished assembly is attached to the bed near the top and bottom edges. I'm sure you could work out a scheme to attach this to a standard bed frame as well.
The angle of each segment depends on how many segments you use. In my case, I have a total of 10 segments; eight with flutes and two plain ends. The outside edge of each end piece is flat; all other edges are beveled. I cut each bevel at 5deg, calculated as follows:
10 segments = 9 joints
90deg radius divided by 9 joints = 10deg per joint
2 faces per joint = 5deg per face
For the rails, my guess is that you could attach them to a typical steel bed rail system if you don't want the underbed storage. The rails are 1-1/2" thick, so are quite substantial. In order to save material, I made the walnut cap from 8/4 stock, but the cherry field is a face of 4/4 stock backed up with 3/4 plywood.
Bill Arnold
B&B Woodworking
Edited 6/28/2004 1:22 pm ET by BArnold
Bill,
Lovely design. Thank you for the detail.
Doug
Thos. Moser has a book of measured shop drawings that includes a pencil post (elegant and classic) bed. If nothing else, it can be a starting place...
ttfn
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