I reviewed a number of previous posts on the subject of bed construction, with good information.
For a queen size four poster bed, with headboard, footboard, and all the rails, what is the preference out there?
1.) Using a steel bed frame readily available $65 to support the box spring and mattress, placing no load on the bed construction.
2.) Supporting the box spring with the side rails and posts, meaning the bed construction supports both box spring and mattress, including either slats, or a center support.
I’m leaning towards option (1), but would appreciate any thoughts.
Replies
If you have a costco in your area I picked up the metal bed frame there a couple of weeks ago for less than $40, not an answer to your question but thought you might like to know. Shane
And a third option, Jellyrug, is to do away with the box spring and frame contraptions altogether and simply rest the mattress directly on slats or a man made board base carried by bearers mounted to the side rails.
You can add an additional central leg for more support, but in anything up US Queen size it's my experience that this is not required, unles the users plan on being extremely regular and vigorous sexual athletes, or are grossly overweight-- and sexual athletes if such a thing is possible, ha, ha. Slainte.
RJFurniture
A fourth option - a pedestal with drawers.Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
RJ,
The mattress manufacturers tell me that their high end mattresses are designed to work with the base, or box-spring, as a set. Using the mattress only would change the feel, from the original design intention, as it will be firmer and then they also state that it would shorten the life of the mattress.
Now I'm not sure if this is aimed at selling and bottom line profits from their part, or if they are trying to protect their products from those athletes you are referring to? I guess a box spring will be more forgiving, as it absorbs shock, for those practicing athletics in bed vigorously.
They do make a mattresses to be used without a base, on a platform bed, but the one I'm building goes with an existing set.
They all say that Jellyrug, and I've never believed the salespersons blather on the topic, and I see a bed salesman has repeated the exhortation in this thread.
Nearly all box springs are flimsily made from cheap particle board crapola nailed together with a bit of cloth and a few bits of springy metal-- and easily junkable in my opinion.
It may be that the mattress warranty is voided if the box spring deal is omitted, but you can make a far more elegant bed without the plug-ugly thing taking up masses of space. Mattresses seem to last very well without box springs under them in my experience so long as they are well supported. Slainte.RJFurniture
No offense intended towards your response, just offering another bit of information. I agree, the box spring is pretty much worthless. There are some companies that have a bad reputation of sagging after a short amount of time. One of the worst offenders could be a company that starts with an "s" and ends in a "immons", but that might be hearsay. Only the shadow knows.
A couple of things to consider, and I add this only because I work in a furniture store.
1) Most metal frames only allow you to bolt a headboard to it, not a footboard. Check the setup before purchasing.
2) I agree with Sgian Dubh that box springs are not always needed. However, most mattresses have a warranty against sagging, and this warranty is not honored without a matching boxspring.
The most sturdy setup I have seen is wooden rails attached to the headboard and footboard with "bedbolts". These are available through many catalogs, but I know Rockler carries them. The bed rail hooks work well when new, but tend to get "sloppy" over time. You can buy shims to tighten them up.
Thanks for all the prompt replies.
"1) Most metal frames only allow you to bolt a headboard to it, not a footboard. Check the setup before purchasing."
I was planning to use the steel frame only to support the mattress set, sitting inside the bed rails, but with it's own independent feet. The head and foot boards to be supported by mortise and tenons into posts and the side rails, using mortise and tenon, with a bed bolt from Lee Valley
That would work fine. Is there a reason you don't want to use the wooden frame to support the mattress set? Just curious.
I went to a very large furniture store last night and stole with my eyes. Most of the beds were constructed with a standard steel frame, supporting the box spring and mattress surrounded by the bed rails. The side rails do have a 1 1/4" edge, where the steel frame rests, but the steel frame has it's own legs. I guess this is to protect the bed joints from racking stresses, or perhaps just makes for easier construction.
The salesman was not impressed, as I looked under each bed and commented that everything is painted. (Stained)
Whether or not you go with a boxspring is largely a matter of personal preference. I have spent most nights of my adult lfe on ####mattress on one or another of the various kinds of platform beds I have made over the years. I prefer that kind of firmness, but I certainly understand that others like the feel you get with a conventional mattress over a box spring. I think the blather about voiding the warranty if a mattress is not used with a box spring is a bogus issue. I have never had a mattress "fail" when used with a platform; and in any event, I generally prefer getting a new mattreess every 10 years or so.
Jellyrug,
It can be very uncomfortable trying to clime out of a bed where the side rails extend beyond the mattress edge by 1 1/4-1 1/2". When you sit on the edge of the mattress it compresses and the wood is supporting your weight. I'd try to make sure the mattress is fully above the side rails...also easier to change the sheets that way too. Just a thought...
Thanks everyone for all the advice, much appreciated.
Decisions, decisions, decisions.......
I have decided, platform bed with no box spring, head and footboard mortise and tenon joinery, side rails mortise and tenon, with Lee valley's bed bolt and platform side rails will be level with the slats below the mattress. Means once the bed is made, you won't see the side rails.
The top end rails will also be mortised into the posts while the top side rails will use Lee Valley's rail brackets.
No nasty steel frames.
Thanks again, specially to those persuading me to get rid of the box spring.
I ditched both of our boxsprings after I read that article in fine woodworking about building a the 2x4 frame with a melanine platform. It works great! The more honest salesmen will admit it doesn't void the warranty. One of the delivery crews for our new mattresses obviously had instructions to check out my setup. They were impressed. it is the ONLY way to go with an antique bed. I can't find the article that detailed how to get rid of the box springs and my Dad needs it does anyone know were it is on the FW website?
Jellyrug,
Here's a couple things for you to consider. Using a store bought frame on its legs will limit you to whatever mattress height that gives you. My experience has been that this is seldom the ideal height for a period design. If you are building a reproduction of an old design, you will likely find that it wants a much taller mattress height than is available by using a metal frame. Some old beds have mattresses upward of 3' high.
Horton Brasses sells sets of bed irons, "L" shaped steel, from 1-1/4 x 1/4" bar stock, that you can inlet flush and screw to the inside of your bedrails. They come in several sizes, so you have a choice in the distance the box springs drop down between the rails. No slats needed, although I usually lay 2-1/2" channel iron across the bed irons, for add'l support. Three pairs of irons, at head, foot, and center, on the side rails. King size may require a third rail, right down the center.
Horton also has bed bolts, special wrenches, and covers for the bolt holes.
Regards,
Ray
Ray, as an alternative to the ell-shaped ironmongery, you might investigate what I used: 2x2s. I screwed them into the side panels of the bed and then put slats across that I half-lapped and screwed into the 2x2s.Works great.Leon
leon,
Yup, that'll work. Many beds of the Victorian era used that system, or variations of it. One advantage of the bed irons, is that with them, you have the option of hanging the bottom of the boxsprings below the level of the bottom edge of the side rails, to make the top of 7" deep boxsprings come flush with the top of a 4" wide rail, for instance.
Ray
Hadn't thought of that, Ray.The bed I built uses 2x4 butternut for the siderails, they're mortised into the uprights at 10 inches off the deck. [It's my variant of a head-on collision between Craftsman and Mission styles, stolen from somebody, I forget who.]I built it high deliberately to (1) keep it out of draughts and (2) let the vacuum cleaner I then owned fit underneath it.FWIW, I finished it with blonde shellac, french polished.
Leon
Leon,
I like working butternut. Although I understand it is getting harder to find, because of a blight that is affecting the trees. The last I got has a good bit of worm damage.
Ray
I built this bed about fifteen or so years ago, the timber was locally cut (got it from a mill near Lexington) and had abundant wormholes.Soaked it down in paint thinner, squirting it into each hole, as it airdried. Not a problem yet.
Leon
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