Replies

1. 
   boilerbay | Jul 19, 2008 03:46am | #1

   Highland hardware has some stuff. They have been advocating a 4" port in the lower door for years. Cruise their library. May have something for you.

   Good luck

   Ahab
   The grays are running and am looking for a white!

2. 
   Len | Jul 19, 2008 06:48am | #2

   Bill,

   Take a look at this thread.

   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=40157.1

   There are a couple of different ideas that work.

   Len

   "You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox

3. 
   davidbrum | Jul 19, 2008 04:45pm | #3

   HI Bill

   I tried various modifications for my 14" clone bandsaw. Then one night I worked up the courage and cut a hole for a 4" port in the bottom access door. I did it after reading both the Highland article and the Michael Fortune article here http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=24093

   I have to say that it definitely works much, much better although it will not get all the sawdust. There are still plenty of the larger crumbs which end up one the table and behind the saw when resawing. It does seem to get all the fine dust and perhaps 95+ percent of the bigger stuff.

   I use it in combination with the original 2 1/2" port, hooked to a shopvac. I don't think you can do much better as a modification.

   davidb

1. 
   bilyo | Jul 27, 2008 03:07am | #23

   David,

   Well. The deed is done.  I cut the hole with my sabersaw and it went quite easily.  Fastened the plastic port with 4 sheet metal screws and a little calking.  All I want to do now is put on a little weather stripping to seal the crack between the door and casting.  I tried ripping a few pieces of scrap and it seems to work quite well.  I leave the little 1 1/2' port open and the DC draws quite a lot of air through it.

   You mentioned that you had quite a bit of dust left on the table top when resawing.  I was doing quit a bit of resawing last week and discovered that the DC would take care of more of it if you used a large opening in the table insert.  You might try that if you don't need zero or minimal clearance for the work you're doing.

   Thanks to everyone for all the help.

   Bill

    

4. 
   Dave45 | Jul 19, 2008 07:00pm | #4

   Here's how I rigged a 4" blast gate to my 14" Jet.  I lost the factory "nozzle" and screwed an angle bracket to the lower door.  A band clamp holds the gate to the bracket.  It's a very short run between the gate and my 1100cfm DC and this setup does a pretty good job. 

   
1. 
   boilerbay | Jul 20, 2008 04:21pm | #5

   Basic one point mount - no cutting? Nice. Simple.
   Does the unit keep most of the lower casing cleaner?

1. 
   Dave45 | Jul 20, 2008 04:34pm | #6

   No cutting needed - just drill two holes in the lower door for the sheet metal screws that hold the angle bracket.  If you try this, make sure the screws are just long enough to get thru the door but not get too close to the blade.

   Very little dust builds up inside the saw.  When the gate is open, there's a lot of air flow around the lower blade guides which pulls almost all of the dust into the DC.

   Using the band clamp to hold the gate on the bracket was a bit of blind luck.  It's very secure, but a quick half turn of the screw loosens it when I need to open the door.

1. 
   willzwood | Jul 20, 2008 05:11pm | #7

   Puchase a 4 inch dust collection plate from Penn State ind.  You'll also need a Y-fitting and 4-to-1 1/2 reduction fitting. The 4" hose comes up the front of your saw to the 1 1/2" fitting.  Just below that fitting attach the Y bend and run to the bottom of the door.  Cut a hole there using your 4" dust plate as a template.  Screws in place with sheet metal screws.  Catches fish like crazy!   Billzwood

1. 
   Dave45 | Jul 20, 2008 07:45pm | #9

   Billz -

   Thanks for the suggestion, but my little rig has been in place for over a year and works like a charm.  I'm using fewer parts (one angle bracket, one blast gate, and one 4" hose clamp) and didn't need to do any cutting.  The only modifications I made to my saw was drilling two holes for sheet metal screws.

2. 
   boilerbay | Jul 20, 2008 06:15pm | #8

   Excellent!

2. 
   bilyo | Jul 20, 2008 08:18pm | #10

   Thanks to all for your ideas, photos, links, and incouragement.  I just got my DC not long ago and have been making temporary connections to my equipment until I can figure out permanent ones.  Actually what I have been doing is a crude version of what you've done.  The 4" angle adaptor (from Woodcraft) with the DC hose attached is held in place just below the table with a length of wire wraped around each trunnun knob and the adaptor.  Actually it works quite well but, of course, I want something more permanent and somewhat more elegant.  I may work out a bracket arrangement like yours.  Does the hose/blastgate interfere at all with the table tilt?

   Bill

1. 
   Dave45 | Jul 20, 2008 09:30pm | #11

   Bill -

   You're welcome.  That's what we're all here for.  Someday, I'll probably have a question and you'll have the best answer. - lol

   I really don't know about interference with the table tilt.  I've had the bandsaw for 6-7 years and haven't done anything requiring tilting the table - so far, anyway.  I suppose that if I need to tilt the table and the DC interferes, I'll just let the dust fly and use the shop vac when I'm done.  That's what I did for a lot of years before I got a DC and I still remember how it's done. - lol

1. 
   bilyo | Jul 21, 2008 06:15pm | #12

   After reading the article in FW, the one from Highland Hardware, and looking at your photos again, I went out to the shop and studied the situation a little more.  While I like your approach, I find that with the table tilted a 4" port in that location will be real crowded and may have to be too low to work its best.  I'm now leaning toward putting the port down at the bottom of the door.  Even though I hate cutting into the door, that would be a real clean installatioin and out of the way of everything else.  I'm thinking of sealing the door all around except the large opening under the table.  That way, the DC can draw lots of air across the blade and, hopefully, do its best.

   Thanks again, Bill

1. 
   Dave45 | Jul 21, 2008 09:33pm | #13

   Don't overdo the sealing.  DC's work best with lots of air flow and it's possible to actually reduce their effeciency by sealing things up too tightly.  There's an upper limit to the amount of air that can flow thru an opening and if your DC tries to pull more, you're just creating suction but not air flow.

2. 
   Tinkerer3 | Jul 21, 2008 11:37pm | #15

   Dave, I'll add to your advice.  The principle is the same whether you are pulling the air out with a dust collector of if you have a jet of air,from an air compressor, directed at the sawdust.  If the hole (or jet) is directed right at the point where the dust accumulates, the best results will be obtained.  The more air at this point, the better.

3. 
   davidbrum | Jul 21, 2008 11:21pm | #14

   Hi Bill

   I thought I'd give some unsolicited advice about cutting the hole in the lower door.  I cut mine with a sawsall, using holes drilled in the corners of the cutout as pivots.  I removed the door and placed it on 2 x 4 scraps on the floor.  Then I stood on the door to make the cuts.  As I recall, it went pretty quickly.

   I second the thoughts about not sealing the doors too tightly.  I tried it both ways and it does work better with some gaps.

   davidb

4. 
   bilyo | Jul 22, 2008 04:56am | #16

   David,

   I appreciate your advice and that of Dave45.  Points about airflow are understood and well taken.  Just from looking, it appears that the opening area around the blade under the table is way more than a 4" round opening.  My intent is to seal up the crack between the frame and door and the big area around the rear blade guard to maximize the airflow through the blade area.

   I looked into getting a 4" metal cutting hole saw but couldn't bring myself to spend $20 to get one.  I'll probably use my jigsaw and earplugs then grind it smooth.  I tend to have more brawn and time than I have money.  When I'm done, I'll wish I had spent the $20.  That's just the way I do it.

   Thanks again to everyone.

   Bill

5. 
   Biscardi | Jul 23, 2008 06:06am | #17

   All,

   A silly thing I did once . . .

   I rigged up a way to connect the dc to the saw. Then while cutting, I checked to see  how much suction I was actually generating. So . . .

   I reached under the saw to feel around the saw guides. Don't do that as the blade is exposed down there on a 14 Delta and I got a nasty cut.

   It is embarrasing to bring this up, but I don't want anyone else to do the same thing.

   Frank

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jul 28, 2008 05:59pm | #24

   Hi Dave,

   If you're not into tilting you can always make a sled that tilts the work.  Kinda the same concept as a mitre guage.

   :-)

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

5. 
   dloc | Jul 24, 2008 03:28am | #18

   Not to appear dumb, but why not start with the standard Delta retrofit kit? Have they stopped making it? 4" port. Then you can add a 2-1/2" hose to the door and a brush on each wheel.

1. 
   bilyo | Jul 24, 2008 05:15am | #19

   Well.  I didn't know they had a retrofit kit. Nor do I know if they still sell it.  Delta (and Dewalt) were recently bought out by Black and Decker, you know.  Anyway, I have a 4" adaptor.  All it needs is a hole in the door and 4 small screws to hold it on.  What else does (did) the kit include?

   Thanks, Bill 

1. 
   dloc | Jul 24, 2008 05:58am | #21

   Don't get your shorts in a bunch. But if youi don't need it, why do you want to know more???? Delta part number 50-239 dust connector for 14" bandsaw. "Google shop" Delta 50-239.

   Door mod was first described by Steve King on this link http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?threadid=7606 The mod works.

1. 
   bilyo | Jul 27, 2008 02:44am | #22

   Likewise.  Shorts not bunched.  Just never heard there was such a kit and wondered if it contained anything I didn't already have and that I might need.

   Thanks for the concern.

   Bill

6. 
   EdHarrow | Jul 24, 2008 05:43am | #20

   This is a five minute job...

   View Image

   Bits of 1/4" ply, duct tape, epoxy, a blast gate and some rare earth magnets.  It's only failing I've discovered thus far is that the table can't be tilted with it in place.