Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 13, 2004 12:36am | #1

   CI is MUCH softer then most folks realize..might wanna make a washer out of UHMW plastic or a circle from say a tupperware type lid..a little lubricity goes a long way

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

1. 
   MatthewSchenker | Jul 13, 2004 04:45pm | #4

   So does this mean that it is not a bad thing for the tension rod to dig into the saw body? I just have to give the rod another surface to dig into, like a washer or something?

1. 
   EdHarrow | Jul 13, 2004 10:31pm | #6

   It's not a bad thing if you want a hole in the top ;-)

   I have the same spring in my ancient Delta with no (at least not yet) trouble.  If I was experiencing what you are seeing, I'd start by rounding the screw as Louis says, and going with a dollop of grease at the pressure point.  (Actually, knowing me, I'd attempt to epoxy something suitable on that spot.  If it didn't stick, and the grease didn't eliminate the problem, then I'd go with the tapped hole and stick a bolt into it.

2. 
   forestgirl | Jul 14, 2004 12:24am | #7

   Sounds like you can rest easy, Matthew.  No more nightmares about losing your favorite bandsaw, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   MatthewSchenker | Jul 14, 2004 08:27pm | #10

   Forestgirl,

   Yes, I would hate that. Of course, it could also be an excuse to get a new saw!

3. 
   Sphere | Jul 14, 2004 01:10am | #8

   like the others have said too, whatever floats yer boat. Try the easiest for you first..then try something else if that fails. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

2. 
   EdHarrow | Jul 13, 2004 12:48am | #2

   Louis Iturra has several suggestions:

   1. Remove the tensioning screw, round off the tip and apply a dollop of grease to it.
   2. Wait until it's punched a hole thru the casting, then drill and tap the hole and thread a suitable bolt into the hole, letting the tension screw press on the head of the bolt.  An Allen bolt might be perfect for this task.  (Note: he doesn't really suggest waiting for this event, but suggests it as an after-the-fact repair.)

   You might also try cleaning up the casing, and epoxying on a smallish washer that the screw would press on.  You'd still want to round off the tip of the screw.  With welding/brazing equip you could actually put the washer on the tip of the screw, but if you ever needed to remove the screw you'd curse the dickens out of me if you followed this suggestion, LOL.

1. 
   scooter1 | Jul 13, 2004 01:13am | #3

   Louis Iturra: The Bandsaw God. Gotta love him.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   Agee | Jul 13, 2004 10:27pm | #5

   I put a high tension spring on my Grizz BS a while back.When I did, it I  also took an old crank handle I had lying around and made a new tension rod out of 3/8 threaded rod.Instead of grinding the tip of the rod to a point I attached an acorn nut on the end after I pushed the rod thru the tensioner. It stays in place on the casting and has not damaged it at all.

   Mike

1. 
   MatthewSchenker | Jul 14, 2004 08:26pm | #9

   Mike,

   I like your idea, and I think I need to do it soon, as I have a big project coming up where I'll be using the bandsaw.

   Thanks for your help.

   Matt

4. 
   AugieFrise | Jul 14, 2004 10:36pm | #11

   Can someone please explain why this would happen? And what does it mean? Is my saw on its way out?

   Obviously a bad casting.  This could be really dangerous, i.e., the tensioner assembly could snap while you're using the saw, sending razor sharp shards of metal directly into your face, where they could blind you or even kill you to death. 

   I strongly recommend that you send this death trap of a machine to me for proper disposal immediately. 

   Sincerely,

   AB Frise

   Tampa, FL 

   p.s.  I am so concerned for your safety that I'll even pay for shipping. 

   (; 

1. 
   MatthewSchenker | Jul 15, 2004 06:12am | #12

   Augie,

   I hate to ruin a good joke, but could you please clarify which parts of your last post are really a joke and which parts are serious?

   I ned to know, sO Idon't have nightmares!

1. 
   AugieFrise | Jul 15, 2004 05:55pm | #15

   I hate to ruin a good joke, but could you please clarify which parts of your last post are really a joke and which parts are serious?

   I ned to know, sO Idon't have nightmares!

   Sure, no problemo. 

   The joke part was: 

   Obviously a bad casting.  This could be really dangerous, i.e., the tensioner assembly could snap while you're using the saw, sending razor sharp shards of metal directly into your face, where they could blind you or even kill you to death. 

   And the serious part was: 

   I strongly recommend that you send this ... machine to me ... immediately. 

   ...  I'll even pay for shipping. 

   How's that? 

   (: 

1. 
   MatthewSchenker | Jul 15, 2004 07:03pm | #16

   Augie,

   OK, now I can enjoy your joke!!

5. 
   jackiechan | Jul 15, 2004 08:01am | #13

   Matthew,

   This identical situation occurred on one of the Jets (a 14" with a new Iturra Design spring) in my shop.  To correct the problem and prevent further damage, I first filed the tip of the adjusting rod to a more rounder configuration.  Then, using a metal punch, I hammered a divot into the center of a metal knock-out blank from an electrical junction box.  If you back up the metal blank with a soft wood (e.g. pine 2x4), you can make the divot project through the other side which helps seat it in the damaged cast iron hole.  I put the divoted blank in place, added a squeeze of bearing grease (I had it lying around), and retensioned the saw with the adjusting rod in the divot.  It's rock solid, and hasn't shown any signs of wear yet.

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   MatthewSchenker | Jul 15, 2004 05:27pm | #14

   Jackie,

   Great idea! Thanks.

6. 
   woodie | Jul 18, 2004 11:41pm | #17

   I read about the a solution to this problem from an Aussie forum. Use an axle nut on the end of the end of the tensioning rod like you used to see on wagons and such. These have a solid rounded end which won't gouge into your frame.

   Cheers

1. 
   MatthewSchenker | Jul 19, 2004 12:22am | #18

   Bud,

   Thanks for your input. I'll definitely do one of these things, before the tensioner digs all the way through!!!

   Thanks again!