Replies

1. 
   chaim | May 27, 2009 01:10pm | #1

   Check to see if saw dust has clogged the ways.

   Can you dismount the blade? If so try moving the wheel and head a little up and down. perhaps it will loosen it up.

   After you get it to move up and down freely, disassemble the mechanism and clean it , examine the ways for wear or rough machining.

   Let us know how it goes.

   Chaim 

    

2. 
   saschafer | May 27, 2009 04:25pm | #2

   It's possible that there is some galling on the threads, although that's uncommon with a steel screw running in cast iron. Can you move it at all? If so, I would lubricate it profusely, and wiggle it back and forth to try to dislodge whatever is jamming up the works. If it's locked up solidly, then I don't think there's much you can do but try to force it. Judicious application of heat might help, but it's as likely to cause additional damage as to fix the problem.

   If worse comes to worst, you can cut off the old shaft, drill out the remaining bits, and have a Helicoil insert installed in the casting. Then all you need is a replacement shaft and you're set.

   -Steve

    

3. 
   Don01 | May 27, 2009 05:24pm | #3

   I had the same thing happen on my King 14", but was able to get the rod out before it totally seized up.
   I bought some acme threaded rod and replaced rod and nut. I also put a small crank on the top and installed a steady bearing higher up on the frame to minimize wiggle when cranking.
   There is an aftermarket replacement rod, nut and handcrank out there somewhere for around 50 - 60 dollars.

   Don

4. 
   SimplyShaker | May 28, 2009 06:33am | #4

   Same thing happened to my Delta 14" bandsaw. The threads on the rod had in essence worn away. It was very difficult to get the rod out but with enough muscle (wear gloves) I got it out. I ended up replacing the rod and spring with some aftermarket parts and all is well now. Can't remember if I replaced the nut or not. I think it's threads weren't actually damaged. It looked like it might be difficult to find an exact replacement so I think I reused it. Good luck.

1. 
   brownman | May 28, 2009 05:30pm | #5

   Thanks for all the advise. I'll dig into it and let you know. I should probably upgrade with a new crank or quick tension release anyways. I have two bandsaws so it may be awhile before I fix this one. Any suggestions as to which one to go with would be appreciated. Thanks to all!

1. 
   SimplyShaker | May 28, 2009 06:17pm | #6

   The rod I purchased had a crank for easier adjustments. It was not too expensive. The only one I can find right away is at Highland Hardware for about $45, which is twice what I got my crank/rod for. I also replaced the spring with one of those yellow, high-tension springs.

1. 
   brownman | May 28, 2009 06:39pm | #7

   Thank You. I will check that out. I've bought their woodslicer blade for my bandsaw and it cuts very, very well.

2. 
   robkress | May 29, 2009 03:10pm | #8

   Hey guys,Try McMaster Carr. They have everything in the world to fix a problem like this. All at reasonable prices but more importantly, they have it all! Easy to purchase from and once you do, you'll purchase a whole lot more.Rob Kress

1. 
   SimplyShaker | May 29, 2009 04:30pm | #9

   Thanks for the tip.

2. 
   brownman | Jun 02, 2009 09:02pm | #19

   Thanks for the tip on McMasterCarr. I was able to get the Acme threaded rod and the 3/8 X 12 nut so I could duplicate the one sold by Carter that costs about $45.00. I found a decent hand wheel at Grizzly, so even after shipping I saved about $17.00 over the Carter tension release. I couldn't find either of these items locally and I live in San Diego, so my only option was McMasterCarr and ENCO

   Edited 6/4/2009 2:01 pm ET by brownman

5. 
   JohnWW | May 29, 2009 09:02pm | #10

   The threads of the nut or of the rod probably wore away until they collapsed and jammed.

   The rod and the square nut that it is threaded into will both have to be replaced. They could have failed because of poor quality steel or machining, lack of lubrication, over tightening, or probably from a combination of the three. The tensioning and tracking mechanisms on the Delta 14" saws and their clones are barely adequate for the job and failures of various parts are common. The rod isn't threaded into the main casting so you won't have to rethread or install a bushing to complete the repair.

   If you can't get it to unthread, you may have to remove the top wheel and cover which would allow you to remove the entire mechanism to get at the stripped parts.

   John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007

1. 
   brownman | May 30, 2009 06:27am | #11

   Thanks John,
   You were right! The rod and nut were cross threaded due to collapse from wear. To remove the rod I had to cut the rod with a keyhole hack saw. So now that I have this all apart are there any benefits to replacing the tension spring also? Would you or any one else have any recommendations as to the best after market set up to replace the crank rod and nut. I'm looking at the two that are sold in the Highland Woodworking catalog at this writing. Or is there a quick release one I should be considering?
   Thanks to all for your help,
   Danny

1. 
   JohnWW | May 30, 2009 02:29pm | #12

   Danny,Either rod assembly would work well enough, but the fancier one with Acme threads and a brass nut is the better design for strength, ease of use, and longevity, so it is worth the extra investment. In my experience, quick release gadgets are unnecessary and are more trouble than they are worth. Generally I don't back off the tension on band saws and I haven't seen any problems. For all of the claims that releasing the tension improves blade life and prevents distorting the tires, I have never seen either theory tested. It is worth replacing the original tension spring on older saws that have springs wound with round wire. If you have a newer saw, and the spring is wound from square wire, it is already one of the stronger versions.John White

1. 
   brownman | May 30, 2009 09:51pm | #13

   Thanks again John!

2. 
   dustymctevish | Jun 04, 2009 10:17pm | #22

   I had the exact same problem 4 years ago on my 14” Delta band saw and had to replace the rod and nut, then decided to upgrade the spring since I already had it apart.  When I called Delta for the replacement parts they had one rod and one nut in the country, I was lucky!

   <!----><!----> <!---->

   Lately I’ve noticed a little rough operation when tightening the tension so I decided to check it out.  Found the threads on the shaft starting to show wear again so I will be replacing it with an acme threaded rod and nut. 

   <!----> <!---->

   I agree with you on over tensioning of the blade, I don’t think the OEM threaded rod can handle the larger blades even when the threads are clean and well lubricated.  The whole tensioning mechanism seems to be a bit under built for the stresses that it is subjected to when using these blades, but then again I don’t think the 14” Delta bandsaw was meant to be pushed to these limits either.

    

   My concern now is with the wheel carrier casting stress limits.  Have you heard of any one breaking one of these on the Delta 14”ers? 

1. 
   Don01 | Jun 05, 2009 08:22am | #23

   "I agree with you on over tensioning of the blade, I don’t think the OEM threaded rod can handle the larger blades even when the threads are clean and well lubricated."I never ran wider than 1/2" on mine and I followed M.Fortune's advice of setting the 1/2" blade tension somewhere around the 3/8" mark as a starter."The whole tensioning mechanism seems to be a bit under built for the stresses that it is subjected to when using these blades, but then again I don’t think the 14” Delta bandsaw was meant to be pushed to these limits either."My concern now is with the wheel carrier casting stress limits. Have you heard of any one breaking one of these on the Delta 14”ers?"On my King 14" these parts look like what we use to call pot metal. I hope not. But as you say, pretty light duty compared to the rest of the saw.Maybe we are just suppose to make sawdust and not worry about why the saw gods make things the way they do :-))Don

   Edited 6/5/2009 1:23 am by Don01

6. 
   brucet9 | May 31, 2009 08:59am | #14

   I replaced the original tensioner on my 14" Delta with this one:

   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5620

   Works great and because it is so easy to turn, I actually do release tension whenever I get done using the machine; 4 turns and it's loose as can be; 4 turns to tighten when I get set to saw something.

   BruceT
1. 
   brownman | May 31, 2009 07:30pm | #15

   Bruce,
   This is the one I'm looking at, but I'm trying to make one up myself on the cheap. So far I have found the Acme rod for about three dollars from Enco and the hand wheel for about eight dollars from Grizzly. Now if I could just find the right nut with the 1 in 12 pitch I'd be there. Anyone now where I could get a nut like this one? I'm going to check locally tomorrow.

1. 
   brucet9 | Jun 01, 2009 12:02am | #16

   "I have found the Acme rod for about three dollars from Enco and the hand wheel for about eight dollars from Grizzly. Now if I could just find the right nut with the 1 in 12 pitch I'd be there. Anyone now where I could get a nut like this one?"You want to know where to get a 1 in 12 pitch acme nut? Dare I say it? Same place Wile E Coyote gets all of his stuff.BruceT

1. 
   brownman | Jun 01, 2009 06:02am | #17

   Very funny Bruce! Beep, Beep!

2. 
   Don01 | Jun 03, 2009 01:51am | #20

   Assume you have a 3/8" rod. I could only get 3/8 - 16 but the supplier had the nuts as well. The nuts were hex, so I had a local machine shop make me some square washers the same size as the existing nut. He then welded the hex nut to the square nut.
   Check out McMaster Carr in Santa Fe Springs.Don

1. 
   brownman | Jun 04, 2009 08:59pm | #21

   If you don't care about having a faster crank and a stronger rod with the Acme threads then, like you stated, you can get the 3/8" x16 rod and nuts at any of the big box Home improvement stores for only a few dollars. ENCO and Mcmaster Carr both carry the Acme threaded rod and nuts. They are much less expensive at ENCO right now as they are on sale, although ENCO doesn't carry the "square" Acme threaded nuts and McMaster Carr does, in both steel and alloy brass. If your not sure what an Acme thread is do what I did and Google it.

7. 
   mr_kramer | Jun 02, 2009 05:55pm | #18

   More likely than not, the threads are impacted with fine dust. Kind of what happens to you tablesaw highth adjustment. Blow it out, try some penetrating spray, shake violently back and forth and it should come loose. Another thing you might do, is to disasseble it off the saw, then start over. If you do get it loose, make it a practice to blow it out and oil it regularly. Only takes a minute and saves you from this headache. It's amazing how fast things like this happen, especially with dust.