Okay, if the wood is moving away from the fence, the blade is cutting to the left (as you face the saw from the infeed side). Assuming the blade is in good shape, that means that it needs to move back (away from you) on the tires. To do that, back off the thrust bearing(s) and guide blocks to give the blade some breathing room. Then, while turning the wheels by hand, adjust the tracking knob just enough to move the blade back a little bit, not more than 1/8″.
Reset the guides and take a test cut. Repeat as required. Eventually, you’ll either zero in on the correct blade position, or you’ll have moved the blade so far back that it threatens to come off the tires. If the latter, then that suggests a more fundamental alignment issue with the wheels, or possibly a problem with the blade.
-Steve
Replies
What sort of blade are you using? tpi etc.
Thank you for your reply,
It is 1/2 by 6tpi. It was purchased as a resaw blade. However I have tried 4 different blades and this happens with all. I think something is askew with may ability to set the saw properly. I am a novice of the highest degree.
You will probably have better luck with a 3tpi hook tooth blade.
I will give it a at try.
Thank You.
I am a novice to the bandsaw also, in fact in the market for a GOOD bandsaw capable to do re-saw on part of the time. I was recently at the woodworking show and heard a guy at a seminar telling everyone that "if you're going to do re-sawing, use a 1/2 inch 3tpi blade and make sure you buy a bi-metal blade." The reason for the bi-metal blade is that they are stiffer and can take more tensioning than a regular blade and will not twist and drift as bad as a regular blade. I don't know anything about this for sure but thought I'd pass this along.
Thank you for your reply. I will give it a try, now.
Classic symptom of either a dull blade or one with too many teeth per inch. Often times a dull blade won't feel or look dull, but it is.
The fence may also be way off from the blade alignment so that may need some adjusting also. Fence alignment could be the only problem in fact, but blade problems are more likely.
John White
I will try a new blade. I do believe the fence and blade are in good alignment/parallel.
Thank you for your reply.
6 teeth per inch is not a resaw blade, will work if the sawing goes slow and the stock under 4" high. You say the fence is parallel, to what? If you have it parallel to the table nstead of the blade,then this may be the source of the problem.Some saw tables can be adjusted for drift.Then you can align the miter slot to the blade and keep the fence parallel.
Take a steel rule (combination square blade will do) and place it on the table and up against the blade. If the blade is parallel to the slot, then the fence can be set parallel. If the rule is askew, adjust the fence accordingly.Use a blade with 3 or less teeth to resaw.
mike
John,
You've got way too many tpi for resawing. Try a 3 tpi skip-tooth or a 3 tpi hook. Sounds as if the blade's not clearing sawdust fast enough and heating up. Try that and check fence alignment.
Steve
There are two secrets to keeping one's wife happy.
1. Let her think she's having her own way.
2. Let her have her own way. President Lyndon Baines Johnson
John
If you don't already know, the brand of bandsaw blade seems to make a huge difference as well. A lot of the big name tool companies sell really crummy blades which neither cut nor track well. Timberwolf or Woodslicer are the brands most often mentioned as being superior. I use Lennox blades which are cheaper and cut fine. Starrett blades are supposed to be pretty good also.
David B
Thank you for your reply. I do need to order a resaw blade. I will check on a source for the brands of these blades.
John,
I wasn't overly happy with my bandsaw until I read and applied the teachings of this article:
Five Tips for Better Bandsawing FWW 173
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=24093
Sounds like you have an unacceptable amount of drift which suggests that you need to look at your tracking again. Assuming that everything else is in reasonable condition and alignment, you will not have good results until you master this. A small change at the adjusting bolt is a big change on the outer rim of the tire, so make little changes, make a test cut, etc. until you get a straight cut.
Don
Don,Good advise! That same article caught my eye in the magazine and I must have read it a few times (since it goes against conventional wisdom) before going out to my saw and doing EXACTLY what Mr. Fortune suggests. The result is perfect cuts without a hitch and none of that business of tensioning the blade so tight that it becomes a musical instrument.Steve
I was able to resolve my problem. One of the replies to me referred to FWW#173 on band saw. This was a great help.
Thanks for your reply, I will check on the bi-metal blade.
I am by no means an expert, I too am having bandsaw issues, but what do you mean by parallel? I know that quite often there is a natural drift to the blade of a bandsaw. From what I have read you should scribe a line on a straight board and cut to that line. After getting a ways through the board reference your fence to the edge of the board the is parallel to the line that you were cutting. Most fences can be adjusted to this drift. The fence, edge of board and cut line should be parallel. Just a guess.
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