I live in the United Kingdom and have been offered the follwing blades for $16 each (£10 United kingdom pounds)
12ft 6 X 1 X 6 T Reg. 3850 Bi-Metal Bandsaw Blade | ||||||||
View Image | 12ft 6 x 1 x 6 tpi regular no. 3850 bi-metal bandsaw blade SNA Europe (UK) LtD
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Comments please
regards Charnwood
Replies
Not sure what your question is etc.
For resawing and most other straight cuts this is THE BLADE
http://www.lagunatools.com/accessories/resawking
Any old blade will cut curves.
The laguna blade in their guides can make very accurate cuts nearly as good as a table saw and much much thicker.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
That is a great price but.. the first has 6 teeth per inch which is 3 teeth too many for re-saw IMO. 6 teeth would be my choice for curve cutting but.. again a problem as the 1" wide blade is not a curve cutting blade. A 1" blade will only make a very wide radius curve which defeats the purpose of making a tight radius. I prefer common carbon blades for curves.
I cannot tell how many teeth are on that second blade from the description but.. it appears to be a 3-4 tooth variable but I'm not sure if that is there interpretation. If 3-4 that would be better suited for re-saw IMO as it is also a 1" wide blade.
But.. it doesn't necessarily take an extremely wide blade to re-saw. It does take a low tooth count. I use Lennox 3/4" 3 tpi (teeth per inch) bi-metal on my 18" saw for re-saw and could get away with 1/2" wide easily if pressed. As far as smoothness of cut.. the bi-metal is not that far from much more expensive carbide in smoothness when you consider that no blade will leave a finish ready cut on the finish side of stock. The glue side yes.. but not the finish side as some clean up is necessary.
Here's a picture of the 3/4" x 3 tpi's cut on a bi-metal that has already seen between 1200-1500 linear feet cut on it.
Good luck...
Sarge..
Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia
CHarnwood,
If there ever was a topic on which everything possible has already been written at least a thousand times, it would be Band Saw blades. There are excellent band saw blade books out which explain the differences between different types of blades and the circumstances under which each is best.
If I wanted to ask the question you asked, I would do it by getting on-line and doing some research. You could go into FWW and look up "Band Saw Blades" or "Bandsaw Blades", and I'll bet you would find not only the answer but the rationale.
Roc's answer is good for Roc, but it is not the one for everybody. That is the problem with Knots. People tend to give the answer that is most appropriate to the person giving the advice. Professional advice givers tend to aim their advice at solving the needs of the one to whom advice is being given.
So get a book or an article on bandsaw blades and learn to figure out which is best. Being self-reliant is the mark of a good woodworker.
Have fun. You can get normal advice from anyone. But MY advice is the best. Ha ha ha ha ha.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
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