Hey guys, as I’m starting getting into woodworking I found I’m a little disappointed with some of the bandsaw blades I’ve tried. They either break or go dull on me way too soon. Is there a brand or two out there that isn’t sold in a big box store that I should try? I’m mostly using my bandsaw for scrolling type work so 1/8 width blades mostly.
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Replies
I've had good luck with Timberwolf blades; timberwolfblades.com
Highland Woodslicer are fantastic blades.
I'm also a big fan of Highland's Woodslicer blades.
I'm fortunate to live in Atlanta where a 35 minute car ride gets me to their fabulous store.
I'm jealous!
For resaw the woodslicers, for the thin blades I just order from Highland.
Not sure what to recommend for your application. A lot of things contribute to breakage or dulling. Tension and alignment are first in addition to type of material you are cutting and feed rates. Assuming all of this is OK you need to be aware that 1/8 blades will heat up fast so be a little more gentle with your feed rate. Make sure the blocks or bearings aren't the cause before you go investing in expensive blades. 1/8th blades are more sensitive to blocks / bearings than most thicker blades since there is less area to support the blade as it travels through the material. And getting the thrust bearing adjusted so the blade teeth don't hit the blocks / bearings is one thing that can contribute to premature dulling / breakage. Scroll work is the hardest on blades since it torques the blade side to side more than most typical cutting. I'd fine tune my adjustments before spending more money on a blade. Good luck.
With no idea what you're cutting, it's impossible to answer.
Personally I buy mine from Sawblade.com but that's what works for me.
https://sawblade.com/bandsaw-blades-for-wood-cutting.cfm
I have used carter, timberwolf, and highland wood slicer, all are very good. The highland wood slicer is the only one I will use for re-sawing. Snodgrass's video on how to set up the saw has helped a lot of berginners.
I don't buy expensive blades and have no problems. I don't buy box store blades though - rather, I go to a local professional blade store and have them make a bunch of blades. This way hitting a nail is not a catastrophe.
I reckon that if you buy where the people who earn their living doing the job buy, then you are probably onto a winner.
Also, a cynic would suggest that there are probably not that many factories making band saw blades. Most will be cut from the same roll regardless of the branding.
It could be true that there are only a couple of manufacturers of bandsaw blades but manufacturers will make a product to the proprietary specifications determined by the customer. We know this is true because different brands are different.
@ matthew_dei: Here's an update to my previous note. I forgot to mention that "Carter" has a product designed to solve the issue you're dealing with.
Check this out:
https://carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer
There are two video's included on this page that address your issue. I think this will solve your problem. Alex Snodgrass (he's the guy in the video) is one of the best there is. It addresses "how to" accomplish "Scroll Cutting" on a bandsaw. The product works perfectly. Good luck. This will save you a lot of grief and money over the long run.
As you can see he doesn't mention the blade type, only the size.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Very helpful. Just looking for what brands have good reputations for putting out quality product.
Like rob, I get my blades welded to length by a custom blade supplier and the manufacturers name is not involved in the selection. I order the blade based on its material for durability, thickness and kerf for its ability to cut tight curves without regard to waste or thicker wider blades for their stiffness in resawing. Then comes tpi and tooth shape. I prefer using the right blade for the job instead of having multi-purpose tools, it makes for extra set-ups but the gain in quality and safety outweighs the extra set-up time.
On the YouTube channel Stumpy Nubs (awesome handle), he had some recommendations and I think it was from non-sponsored supplier. I'd go there and check it out. I like his YouTube channel quite a bit.
@BenStrano, he'd make a good Shop Talk Live guest at some point if you are looking for ideas.
"I think it was from non-sponsored supplier."
You're kidding, right?
YT channels like the one mentioned and many others (the usual suspects) are content creators NOT woodworkers.
I think Stumpy's underpants are a paid sponsor.
James is one of the better 'tubers. He is indeed mostly a content creator, but he is also very good at demonstrating techniques. His channel has lost its way a bit lately and has been all yap and no projects, but when he does do stuff it is in a very accessible way.
He is also very clear about when he is sponsored or not. I have bought several products he has had sponsored and been delighted to find the reviews to be honest and accurate.
Stumpy lives up to his name. I learned what I need to know about him when he put that huge unguarded carving contraption on an angle grinder for a "tool review". I'll find my info elsewhere, youtube woodworking can be very scary.
If you’re referring to the Arbortech carver, he’s replied to a question on the safety of that tool, saying it’s a completely different tool than the more dangerous chain saw angle grinder attachment. He did a video about the dangers of the chain version, his own injury from it, and more recently a video about their being banned in the UK. This “he’s not a woodworker, he’s a content creator” thing is silly, he’s both. When I was starting out in woodworking many decades ago and only had books, trial-and-error, and rare chances to see a pro in action, I would have loved to have YouTube and someone like James to help. Here’s the comment about the Arbortech.
This has gotten far off topic. If you want to discuss the difference between a woodworker and a content creator, I suggest you start a new thread.
I only brought it up in the context of answering the OP's question.
I use Timber Wolf blades, and a Laguna Resaw King for..... resawing! on my Laguna 18BX. Nothing against other brands, it's just what I ordered and they work fine. But, I can't resist, :-) Stumpy Nubs recommends https://www.sawblade.com/ one of his sponsors, of course. He has a good primer on what blades to use for various applications, and ends with a sponsor endorsement. Here's the primer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7n7Gg4QOkc
After some testing on my bandsaw I've learned that the problem that @matthew_dei, the originator of this discussion, has nothing to do with the type of blade he's using. It's the setup where the blocks / bearings are contacting the blade as the scrolling process is done. Dulling and breaking blades are a symptom of too much side to side contact with the thinner (1/8"or less) blades. Retensioning the blade with a center grooved thrust bearing for the back edge of the blade to ride in to stabilize it eliminates the issue entirely. Use any blade brand you want after that and you should get very good results with no premature dulling or breakage. See my previous note regarding Carter bandsaw products. Worked for me and others. PS: I don't work for any product vendors. Just a sawdust maker like the rest of you. If you watch the video it will become apparent what is causing the breakage / dulling issue.
With all due respect, the type of blade does play a factor.
I don't disagree with the saw configuration but the blade is just as important.
Tooth count, configuration, hard back, flex back, etc. Cheap blades can and do, dull and break prematurely. Cheap blades, like the ones that come with the saw are an example. By a quality blade and you should be okay.
I used Timberwolf and thought they were great until I discovered Highland Woodslicer blades, which are excellent. Michael Fortune, the god of bandsawing, uses Starrett blades, which I'm ashamed to say I haven't tried. Per Fortune, be sure to use a skip tooth blade for best results. He uses a 3/4" for nearly everything, I believe. My 3/4" skip tooth from Highland cuts and resaws like a dream.
For straight resawing results, I use the double high featherboard from Bow Products and the Bow Guide Pro. Use the Guide Pro for the infeed and the featherboard for the outfeed.
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