Hi,
Attached are two photos of a Table David Marks made.
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ww_tables/article/0,2049,DIY_14446_3877238,00.html
It’s made from 2″ thick solid maple.
The top is 14″ wide & 48″ long.
The legs are 30″ x 12″ with two tenons per leg into the top.
I have three questions:
#1- He attaches the legs to the top using integral tenons.
I don’t understand how this method allows for the top to move, expand etc.
I would love to attach my tops this way, but I want to understand how or why it’s acceptable before I do it.
#2- Why doesn’t this design require something to keep the top flat like bread board ends or a perpendicular cleat?
Does the thickness of this top stop it from cupping or twisting?
#3- As you can see in the close-up photo, his wedges run parallel with the grain.
I thought that wedges were to be perpendicular to the top’s grain to avoid splitting.
Thanks for your input.
Victor
Replies
Victor: I am at the beginning of a freestanding cabinet project where I originally wanted to attach the top to the sides with tenons as in your question. I changed the plan for the same reasons you bring up but still have time to and would like to revert to the original, pending what Mr. Rogowski has to say on the subject.
Duke
"... Buy the best and only cry once.........
I'll put in my 2 cents (inflationary value, .001)
1) Movement here is not an issue, due to the fact it's not a cross-grain interface. Both the top and the legs will move in the same direction and amount.
2) I've never seen properly dried and milled 8/4 stock warp under normal conditions.
3) The wedges are most likely decorative, as opposed to being structural. Even if they are structural, the mortise is most likely flared to allow the tenon to expand as the wedges are driven.
Don't take any of this as canon, but I don't see any issues with the construction of this bench.
Jim
Perfect.
Thank you.
Exactly what I needed to know.
Thicker = less chance of warp.
And now that you've said it,
the No-cross grain thing seems obvious.Thanks,Victor
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