Replies

1. 
   sschefer | Jul 15, 2002 08:53pm | #1

   Use epoxy it works great.  

   Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   LeeGrinding1 | Jul 15, 2002 09:22pm | #2

   The granite and marble kitchens I've been involved with have been attached with silicone caulk, not latex, silicone.

   LeeLee Grindinger

   Furniture Carver

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 15, 2002 09:30pm | #3

   Silicone caulk/adhesive.

1. 
   sschefer | Jul 16, 2002 12:28am | #4

   Howie and Lee, you are right, that is what I've used for counter tops also. The primary reason for that is so the counter tops can be changed if damaged without destroying the cabinets. Rarely would anyone try to lift a counter top so this works well.

   I think in this case the epoxy might be the better choice because the end tables will likely be lifted by the tops when being moved for vacuuming etc. On the marble table that I built, I experimented with several different adhesives but settled with a concrete to wood epoxy made by JB Weld. We moved the table several times without any problems.Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   LeeGrinding1 | Jul 16, 2002 03:23am | #5

   Hmmm, Steve, so you attach all your tops in a permanant fashion?

   Lee

   Lee Grindinger

   Furniture Carver

   Edited 7/15/2002 8:24:18 PM ET by LeeGrindinger

1. 
   sschefer | Jul 16, 2002 06:26pm | #7

   You said : "Steve, so you attach all your tops in a permanant fashion?"

   I don't think I said that.Steve - in Northern California

2. 
   KevinLBS | Jul 16, 2002 05:06pm | #6

   You guys have been a great help.  Here's what I'm thinking- you can tell me if I've got it right:

   I'll mill a rabbet on the inside of the tops of the rails of the table and install plywood corner blocks, just like on a kitchen cabinet, and that should give me a good flush surface to apply the adhesive.  I think I agree more with the epoxy idea, since it will be a piece of furniture and will get more handling than a kitchen countertop.

   I could see where you definitely wouldn't need epoxy in a kitchen situation, since the slab would be so heavy as to resist movement on it's own.  I think the size of my top and the furniture aspect will call for something more sturdy.

   Thanks so much again,

   Kevin

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 16, 2002 08:02pm | #8

   Steve, you are probably correct that an epoxy would be stronger, but in the shop I was involved with, we use silicone adhesive on lots of stuff that was used on boats without any problem. Let me also say, that when you try to remove anything from a boat that has be bedded in silicone adhesive, you will find that it has an enormous amount of strength.

1. 
   sschefer | Jul 16, 2002 09:22pm | #9

   O.K. I'll buy that. On the marble table that I did I felt I was using the epoxy for structural purposes. I epoxied slotted blocks to the marble then screwed through the blocks into the skirt. When I tried using silicon the blocks moved around too much for my comfort. It probably would have been o.k. I just didn't feel comfortable with it.  Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   Biscardi | Jul 17, 2002 04:17am | #10

   Make sure the marble is supported every two feet or so from beneath to prevent cracks.

   Frank

3. 
   JAllen9301 | Jul 17, 2002 11:27pm | #11

   I agree with the others that silicone or epoxy would work fine; the problems start if you want to disassemble the table for moving or storage. Epoxy such as JB weld makes a bond stronger than the wood, and thus might damage the table if you forced the top off. Silicone caulk is messy and a pain to remove prior to reassembly.

   For a no fuss alternative, rabbet plywood "buttons" into the tops of the legs, and screw them down.  Make them long enough so that they extend about an inch inboard. Drill pilot holes for masonry screws ( I used 5/8 for a similar project).Place the marble slab upside down on the workbench and center the frame on the slab. Mark through the pilot holes with a sharpie, and use a masonry bit to drill to depth. Fasten using hex type masonry lag screws. This way the tabletop stays on securely, yet is easily disassembled with a ratchet.

   One more tip: keep an old windex bottle full of water handy while you drill the marble and spray the bit continuously to keep it cool.

   
   

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   Edited 7/17/2002 4:31:42 PM ET by JALLEN9301