As a newbie woodworking hobbyist, I’ve been reading these forums with interest. Great stuff!
I need some advice. I am building a computer desk out of black walnut. The paneled top is 4/4 and I am attaching the legs through the top with wedges. I will have a stretcher placed 12″ or so below the tabletop to stablize everything. Sort of a “light”, arts and craft style desk with no apron between the legs into which I could readily add a drawer.
I’d like to attach a 30″ or so wide drawer to the top and was considering building an enclosure for it that “hangs” below the table top, but want to make sure the joinery I use is strong enough to support the drawer and its continued use. I was thinking of doing a sliding dovetail on the underside of the top, but am concerned about the length of it (the drawer would be about 18-20″ deep) – might be difficult to slide the enclosure into the slot. Also thought about just doing a dado into the underside of the tabletop and pinning the enclosure with dowels from the top. But, would rather not have dowel pins showing on the top. Not sure glue by itself will be strong enough.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Replies
Here's some heresy: How about screws?
The housing for the drawer is going to be underneath the top, right? screw it to the top. If you need to allow for movement of the top, elongate the holes a bit.
By the way, how are you dealing with the top's movement vis-avis the legs?
Hi dcruse ,
I call them add a drawers. There are many ways of doing what you want , depending on how much weight capacity you need . One way is to make an upside down U . The top can be anywhere from 1/4" to 3/4" and the sides should be 3/4" stock either veneer ply or solid . If you make the drawer face full overlay the frame work or U shaped box will not show . Typically I screw them up to the underside of the top or you may be able to fasten it to the legs .
This works well for side mounted drawer slides as no bottom structure is needed. There are also some key board type slides that mount up to the bottom of the top and then side mount to the drawer box . No frame work would be needed with the top mount slide . You did not say how tall the drawer will be , a taller drawer may be better to use the U box .
Typically I rabbet the sides of the U and on a 3/4" top fasten thru the sides .
good luck dusty
By the way, the sliding dovetails woould definitely work, it's just that they are also likely to be a challenge to execute cleanly. Good jigs, a router table and lots of test pieces could get it done though.
Yep - that was my concern on the sliding dovetails - I'm just not that good (yet)! Good advice though - thanks!
If the desk is not seen from all angles, this approach may work for you. I recently finished a chest/entertainment center with a hanging top mounted enclosure for the satellite receiver. I cut dovetail slots, front and rear, each 2" long. Just behind the front dovetail slots with a straight bit I ploughed a 2-1/2" long slot the exact width of bottom of the dovetail floor. This is the "starter" slot to then slide the drawer enclosure forward to engage the sides. The front dovetails are glued and the rears float. Another approach is to use a tapered sliding dovetail and I have to admit that I have not done one yet but someday............... .
Since this is a hobby, you don't have to worry about how much time it takes. Your concern is learning and doing. So, do the sliding dovetail. Read up about it, ask in the forum for advice, think about what could go wrong and how to prevent that. Then do a practice joint (or six) on some not to valuable scrap. You will learn a valuable skill and feel proud.
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