Replies

1. 
   DaveMartins | Jun 10, 2003 04:35pm | #1

   I've just painted some finished mouldings the difference is it was liquored.  I sanded with 220 grip sandpaper and primed with Bin.  The final coat with a semi enamel worked just fine.

   I'm not sure about just a stain but if its dry, you'd be ok with the schedule I used.

   Dave

2. 
   forestgirl | Jun 10, 2003 07:25pm | #2

   Using BIN or Kilz should work per earlier post.  Be sure an read/follow the directions on the can.  Depending on whether it's shellac-based or water-based, you're supposed to wait different amounts of time before apply final coat.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 11, 2003 05:03am | #3

   Pam1

      Just to confuse you, I will throw another idea at you. I did that once to some legs on a shop bench. I ran over the dry stain with 220 to rough it out slightly and went straight over it with Porch and Floor gloss. Covered on the first coat and the stain has never seeped through in 3 years. I was using a dark blue paint and did a second coat cause I'm kinda picky.

      I think I have a pic. The blue was once dark red oak oil stain. Use some of the same stain on a piece os simialr pine scrap and let it dry. Sand it over with 220 and paint it with the paint you're using. See what happens.... You might save some a lot of time and effort...

   Just a though... luck.

   sarge..jt

   
1. 
   Kevin | Jun 11, 2003 07:01am | #5

   I like your approach, Sarge. Watco and Minwax are self-sealing oil stains. If it were a solvent or water-based stain I'd opt for a primer coat. But, since the oil stains also seal the wood, there's not much of a need for an additional primer coat except to improve the coverage of the subsequent paint.

   Regards,

   Kevin

2. 
   Pam1 | Jun 11, 2003 04:40pm | #6

   Thanks for all the tips! Great idea to try it out on a scrap piece, Sarge. I feel much more confident about proceeding now . . . I was afraid (well, maybe not really "afraid") that the freshly applied stain would bleed, but if it's self-sealing, that shouldn't be quite so likely.

   Thanks to everyone who responded!

   When the student is ready, the teacher appears . . .

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 11, 2003 04:54pm | #7

   Pam1

      I do a lot of painting. I just experimented for fun and discovered that the oil based stain did just that in my case. Acted as a sealer coat. But, you should test as another brand might contain various degrees of different ingredients.

      If it doesn't work, you have lost little time and effort. But, you may prove to gain much wasted time and effort. I would apply several coats of paint. Use high grade paint and an good brushes. I have Purdy's that are cleaned properly that are over 16 years old.

      Then again as I mentioned, I'm picky. ha..ha..

   Good luck....

   sarge..jt

4. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 11, 2003 05:08am | #4

   Pam1

      Opps.... Meant to say that the face frames on the mitre cabinet and the legs on the old drill press stand I built were stained dark red oak originally before I decided to go paint instead.

   sarge..jt