Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Nov 03, 2009 02:02pm | #1

   The original bench was built with Douglas fir which is commonly available as construction lumber in most of the northern states. There is no advantage to using SYP for the bench if you can get Douglas fir locally.

   John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007
1. 
   tkarlmann | Nov 04, 2009 07:41pm | #3

   Dougfir found!  In my area, Lowe's has it mixed in with thier 2x8 and 2x10 stock of SPF at least in the 8' lengths -- which was what I checked.

   Thanks John.

1. 
   JohnWW | Nov 04, 2009 08:18pm | #5

   Here in the north east almost all SPF is Douglas fir. Usually you will find the best wood in the long lengths of 2x12 and 2x10, it takes big straight trees to get wide stock. Look for boards that came from the heart of the tree. The heart area will be useless and unstable but you can get some very nice quarter sawn 2x4's and 2x6's from the edges. Whatever you get will need to be end sealed and stickered, probably for a month or more, to dry out properly.John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007

   Edited 11/4/2009 12:51 pm ET by JohnWW

1. 
   tkarlmann | Nov 04, 2009 11:40pm | #6

   At my Lowes, there is actually printing on the board itself that has some other info on it, but clearly says doug fir or SPF.  I think the best weapon is to know your wood! 

   Also, I was told that Lowe's lumber is kiln-dried.  Even so, I know to let it sit a bit to acclimate to my shop -- and then again after initial jointing/thicknessing.  I have not been stickering and end-sealing though, perhaps I should; do you recommend that for kiln-dried lumber?

1. 
   JohnWW | Nov 05, 2009 12:12am | #7

   Construction lumber isn't kiln dried to as low a moisture content as hardwoods and softwoods intended for furniture and trim work. Kiln dried framing lumber is only dried to around 18% moisture content, which means the wood, when it gets into your shop, will probably still lose moisture until it is down to somewhere in the range of 8% to 12%. The level it drops to will depend on the relative humidity in your shop.Since the wood will probably be losing a fair amount of moisture, and may do so quickly if the air is dry, it is a good idea to seal the ends of the stock to prevent end checking. If you only have a few boards to dry out, you can just use duct tape on the ends of the boards. The stock will dry out better if it is stickered in your shop at bench height with the air temperature kept at about the same level that you set it when actually working in the shop.John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007

2. 
   spotcheck | Nov 03, 2009 11:25pm | #2

   I'd go beyond John W one small step - and say that hemfir or dry doug fir would be my preference over SYP.  Grain is generally tighter and straighter.

1. 
   tkarlmann | Nov 04, 2009 07:42pm | #4

   Thanks!  I feel even better about my 'find' of dougfir after your comparison.