Replies

1. 
   Quickstep | Aug 09, 2010 09:12pm | #1

   I'll talk hide glue.........

   I found Behlen's Master Hide glue in the Stewart McDonald catalog

   (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Wood_glue/Behlen_Ground_Hide_Glue.html) 

   It says it's gram strength is 256 which I think puts in about in the middle of the fast - slow tack continuum. My attempts at using hide glue were similar to yours in that I struggled to get the glue spread quickly begore it gelled. I've read that the Martin guitar factory keeps the areas where hide glue is used very warm so the material is also warm; slowing the gelling process. I've also seen luthiers who use hide glue pre-warm the parts so they don't rapidly cool the glue once it hits the surface. This seems dicey to me since applying heat that way seems almost certain to make something warp.

   My successful attempt with hide glue produced a joint that set fast and was very strong, but it was a test joint and I don't think that I could have worked quickly enough to make a bigger joint successfully. My failed attempts produced messy joints that were incredibly weak. It is for that reason that I have retreated to less traditional glues. Luthier's Mercantile sells a white glue that they claim has the sound transmission desired for musical instruments with the reversibility of hide glue. For gluing thin material that might warp from absorbing the water from glue, I use epoxy; also reversible with heat. I also like epoxy because I can adjust its cure time by using different hardeners and those cure times are fairly predictable and it's really strong, fills gaps etc. For almost everything else, Titebond works like a champ. Nevertheless, I like the idea of hide glue (much as I like shellac as a finish). What do you have going on that Hide Glue is a fit for?

1. 
   roc | Aug 13, 2010 12:37am | #2

   Right

   Quickstep,

   Thank you for the link.

   The attraction for me to hide glue is the compatibility with finish.  I don't need to fear having a blot where the finish does not penetrate the same and leaves a track.  Gorilla was my choice before because it worked so well with finish.  Aged Gorilla caused me to have to cut a table apart at the seams and reglue with fresh glue; though the joints were plenty strong they were visible due to too thick a glue line.

    I like epoxy for some things for sure.  I think I have the same fear of a blotch for edge joints with epoxy though.

   > What do you have going on<

   (see my OP post)

   Well that's about the end of it then . . . no more reason to hang around here.  The last street car has passed.

    

2. 
   RalphBarker | Aug 13, 2010 01:48pm | #3

   Hide (the) glue

   I try to hide the glue with the heads of 16d nails.  ;-)

   Sorry, Roc, can't add anything to your topic due to lack of experience with hide glue. Looks like interesting stuff, but I haven't taken the plunge (into the glue pot).

1. 
   DonStephan | Aug 13, 2010 08:48pm | #4

   in the winter, 70 deg F I find too cool - hide glue gels too fast.  I'll use a hot air heat gun for several minutes to heat the wood so the glue doesn't gel so fast.  The hotter the wood, the slower the glue will gel.

   My understanding is 192 gram strength is recommended for general purpose woodworking.  256 may gel faster than 192, all other things equal.  Just my two cents.